I took a visit out there last week and spent a considerable amount of time talking to Domenico DeMarco, 71. I was there to investigate the price spike but ended up learning a lot about the 150 or so pizzas he makes a day, such as cooking the pies at 750°F for five minutes; the use of Israeli basil and Italian flour.
But there is one thing I'd like to clear up. DeMarco uses four types of cheeses--not three. There are three types of mozzarella and of course the signature Parmigiano-reggiano he hits every pie with just before serving them.
Anyway, I noticed repeated media accounts of just three cheeses, and I wanted to set the record straight. And one other thing, DeMarco says a slice cost 20¢ when he opened in 1964. A pie cost a buck. Those were the times. --Adam G.
Dear Adam, Thanks for clearing that up--though I think I understand where the confusion comes from. I've seen Dom sometimes put on a combo of standard mozzarella (from Grandé), fior di latte (also Grandé brand), and buffalo mozzarella imported from Italy. But at times I swear I've seen him omit the buffalo mozzarella--I'm guessing when he runs out.
Also: Many accounts have Dom putting grana padano on his pies. Did he specifically mention Parmigiano-reggiano?
Hasta la pizza, Adam K.
He did say Parm-reggiano. I can confirm this tidbit. Oh, by the way, I was at Lucali a month or so ago, and they said they're gonna expand. They want to open the back yard for summer and put some tables out there. --Adam G.
No kidding! Parmigiano-reggiano, eh? Well, whatever it is, it's delicious as always. And thanks for the tip on Lucali! It would be nice to see that place open up some more tables so it's easier to get in there. --Adam K.