Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria, a Gallery

Don't worry, Nate Appleman here isn't angry at Slice. He was just pullin' a face for the camera. [Photographs: Adam Kuban]

Another week, another high-profile pizza happening, man. Today, Pulino's Bar & Pizzeria, the long-awaited pizza joint helmed by San Francisco arriviste Nate Appleman (late of A16 in the City by the Bay).

Though to call it a "pizza joint" would be a bit of an understatement. The latest in Keith McNally's restaurant group (oh, he of Balthazar, Pastis, Schiller's, etc.), it's totally McNalley'd out—a large, airy space that's overall French brasserie in feel with a bit of New Haven throw in for good measure in the oven area. (Peep the gallery and see if you don't think the dual oven action and white tile doesn't remind you of Frank Pepe's.)

While it's too early to report objectively on the pizza, I know you want your pizza porn, so I headed down there today for snaps of this week's model. While a full-on raging critique will have to wait, I will say that I liked what I had. Mr. Appleman's "Bowery-style" pizza is a nice mixture of New Haven– and bar-style pizza. Once he and the crew get their sea legs, we'll be back.

Pulino's Bar & Pizzeria

282 Bowery, New York NY 10012 (at Houston; map) 212-226-1966; pulinosny.com