Daily Slice: Slice Brick Oven Pizza, Portland, Oregon

Slice: Portland

Pizza reviews in the Portland area.

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.


[Photographs: Jim Bonomo]

D Street Noshery is the umpteenth new parking lot full of trailers, buses, and heated dining tents dishing out tasty treats in Portland, Oregon. Portland's newest mobile pizza vendor has made its home among D Street's trendy latecomers. Slice Brick Oven Pizza serves up 8" pizzettes and full-sized 16" pizzas as well as a few different slices: cheese, Margherita, pepperoni, and, occasionally, a vodka sauce-slathered slice. The truck is equipped with a propane-fueled brick oven and promotes their use of freshly made dough and sauce.


The Margherita weighed heavily on the sweet side: the cooked sauce was sugary with pungent dried herbs. I enjoyed the crisp crust, although it would have been better had it not been plastered with excess flour. The discs of fresh mozz atop the slice were a tad undermelted and slid off the pie on the most inconvenient bites. The fresh basil, unfortunately, only amplified the slice's sweetness.

The pepperoni slice was more of a success. The salty, meaty discs were arranged systematically so that every bite was bursting with neon orange grease-laced meatiness. The sweet sauce played into the background quite appropriately, and the shredded commercial mozzarella held everything together. This slice is less pretentious, and that works just fine.

The Slice Brick Oven Pizza truck sits next to Portland's first beer cart, so you can suck down some suds while you throw back a hearty slice or two. It will certainly take a bit of liquid courage to order up that vodka sauce business.

Slice Brick Oven Pizza

3221 SE Division St, Portland, Oregon 97202 (map) 360-606-9987; slicebrickovenpizza.com