Daily Slice: Delicata Squash and Brie at Hot Lips Pizza in Portland, Oregon

Slice: Portland

Pizza reviews in the Portland area.

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.


[Photographs: Jim Bonomo]

These days, Portland's Hot Lips Pizza may be more famous for their natural fruit sodas than their pizza. But the specialty slices at this local chain are worthy of attention. I tried out the Delicata Squash and Brie slice ($3.75) that's offered on Thursdays at their Killingsworth location.


The subtly sweet squash is puréed, but added lightly, so its flavor is dominated by the onions and cheese. The brie is added last over a more mellow base cheese. Only the rinds were still visible, and the creamy white brie melted smoothly amongst the other dairy.

If I hadn't known the squash was present, I would have pegged this as a white pizza with a bit of funky brie and aggressive onion. I'd suggest they add a little more squash and tone down the brie and onion a bit. The slice was well-seasoned and the crust-to-cheese-to-topping ratio was perfect for lovers of a thin crust pie. The crust lip brought crunch, chew, and a nice color, and the undercrust is pleasantly crisp and sturdy.


It seems that Hot Lips flavors their vegetarian slices aggressively, perhaps to compensate for the lack of meat. Imbalances aside, Hot Lips is a local pizza option we shouldn't forget about.

Hot Lips Pizza

5320 NE 33rd Ave, Portland, Oregon (map) and various other locations;