Daily Slice: Pizza by Cer Té's 'Italian Wedding,' Midtown Manhattan

Slice: New York

Pizza reviews in NYC.

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.


[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

Pizza by Cer Té, where have I been all your life? Yeah, I know all the bloggers have been singing your praises since you opened last year in April – notably Midtown Lunch's Brownie, who comes close to calling it the best slice in Midtown. Despite all that, yesterday was my first time visiting — can you believe that?*

Well, I'm not going to be a stranger any longer. The Italian Wedding slice ($3.95) I sampled was delicious. Not just "good for Midtown," as these reviews often go, but good in general.** It's topped with juicy, light meatballs; spinach, grana Padano cheese; fresh mozzarella from Lioni, and hot pepper. The meatballs and spinach are what make it Italian wedding. <-- Click that link if you don't get that reference.

The toppings were good, particularly the mozzarella and the meatballs, broken up though they were and resembling sausage. But the crust was great. Billed as a "baker's" pizza on the menu, it's somewhere between a grandma and a Sicilian pizza, with more rise and sponginess to it than the former but not the often overwhelming volume of the latter. And it has just the right crunch-to-chew ratio.

I'm kicking myself for sleeping on this slice. Looks like there's lots more to sample at Pizza by Cer Té, though, so I've got an excuse to visit often. (Note that from 7 to 9 p.m., all slices are 2 for $5.)

Pizza by Cer Té

132 East 56th Street, New York NY 10022 (Park/Lex; map) 212-813-2020; certenyc.com/cer-te-pizza.html

* Actually, I can. This place opened in the run up to my wedding, and its pizza scene premiere sort of got lost in the shuffle. Too bad, that.

** Yes, I know that the whole "not just good for Midtown but good in general" thing is also a bit of a trope.