Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
Phil's Pizza opened its doors on Varick Street in 1972. If the sepia-tone photos posted on the wall are any indication, not much has changed since. Homemade signs with crossed-out prices layered with decades of grease are strewn about the pizzeria, and the slice is classic.
Those who despair that New York street slices are going downhill should stop by Phil's for reassurance that good, unfussy slices still exist. The regular slice is topped with tasty herb-flecked crushed tomato sauce that extends nearly to the outer edge of the crust. The cheese is creamy Wisconsin mozzarella, a cut above average, and it's well balanced by a thin but firm undercrust. The end crust is crisp, serving as a perfect handle for folding the slice. This slice is a simple, beautiful thing, no drizzle of fancy olive oil, no basil leaves—just good versions of the basics.
226 Varick Street, New York NY 10014 (map) 212-243-8629