Chain Reaction: Pizza Hut's New Ultimate Cheese Lover's Pizza

Chain Pizza

Reviews of pizza at chain restaurants.

While we think mom-and-pop shops make the best pizza in the nation, we'd be remiss if we didn't keep abreast of what the chains are up to. Suit up, it's time for another Chain Reaction, folks.


[Photo: Robyn Lee]

Maybe Pizza Hut had a cheese lover's pie before, but they're calling this tomato-less pie Ultimate Cheese Lover's. Is it the Ultimate? Or is it just TOO MUCH CHEESE? We dove in to find out.

Instead of tomato sauce, this pizza has a layer of Alfredo sauce. Most of the sauce soaked into the crust, leaving it extra-gummy, with an added dimension of oil, garlic, salt, garlic, pepper, and more garlic. We got a few dollops that remained creamy, but for the most part, we had trouble detecting any still-liquid sauce on this pie.

What about the cheese? Is it just too much?


"I think it's the right amount to balance all the bread," said one Serious Eater. "It's not that it's so much cheese, it's that it's JUST cheese, and nothing else."

"There's some flavor there I don't like," said another Serious Eater. "Powdered garlic mixed with powdered milk? Alfredo sauce from a dry mix?"

All that cheese was more flavorful than we expected, with a slight tang and pretty intense salt contribution from the Romano and Parmesan. It browned slightly on the top (though the heat wasn't strong enough for this blond pie to get even a tiny bit of browning on the undercrust, which made the whole thing seem like a cheese-topped sponge.)

A scattering of dried parsley didn't add much, though it would be tricky to dominate the garlic punch of this pie. As long as they're open to garlic, kids who always order their pizza without sauce will love this pie. (Why don't we know any "No sauce, please" adults?)

Have you tried the Ultimate Cheese Lover's Pizza yet? What do you think? How much cheese is too much?