Daily Slice: The Brass Monkey at Little Star Pizza, San Francisco

Slice: San Francisco

Pizza reviews in the San Francisco area.

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

20120115-187810-Little-Star-Top.JPG

[Photographs: David Kover]

Originally, ordering the Brass Monkey at Little Star Pizza was just an excuse for me to trawl Youtube for old Beastie Boys videos and maybe to start a flame war here in the comments section. See, I'm already on record as not totally getting the whole deep dish thing. But somewhere between watching a bunch of goofy high school kids lip-syncing in gold chains and writing this review, I actually had to eat the pizza. And, sh-t, Little Star's Brass Monkey is really good!

20120115-187810-Little-Star-Slice.JPG

Though it doesn't appear on the menu, the waitstaff at Little Star won't miss a beat when you ask for a Brass Monkey. They deliver their eponymous Little Star pie pumped up with the addition of sausage. It's a hearty combination of mushrooms, onions, garlic, spinach, and a mixture of ricotta and feta cheese that's just salty and tangy enough to occasionally tickle the tongue. The sausage adds spikes of pork and fennel, while a sweet-but-not-too-sweet tomato sauce ties everything together. That's a lot of stuff inside Little Star's crunchy, comforting cornmeal crust, but it hits every note just about right.

I wouldn't go as far as to say that I'm a deep dish convert, but certainly a Brass Monkey junkie.

Little Star Pizza

3 Bay Area locations Location reviewed: 400 Valencia Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 (map) 415-551-7827; littlestarpizza.com