Daily Slice: Bapo at Napizza, San Diego

Daily Slice

A different slice profiled each day.

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.


[Photographs: Erin Jackson]

Finally! Little Italy has another slice joint and the goods... they're great. Napizza is doing things a bit differently than Landini's, their neighbor down the street, and every other pizzeria in San Diego, for that matter. Master Pizza Chef Matteo Castagna (an Italian import) has developed an approach that can be summed up in two words: don't rush. Pizza dough is aged for a full 72 hours, then baked for over 30 minutes. The extended, low-temperature proofing period slows down the yeast and allows the dough to develop tastier flavors, while the long baking time results in a light, crisp crust studded with air pockets that's supposedly easier to digest.

Some slices are better than others, and the best so far is the Bapo ($4.75), a white pie with fresh mozzarella, red potato, bacon, and "zucchini velvet", that green drizzle on top. Texture-wise, this slice is a knock-out. There's the crisp, springy crust, the julienned slices of red potato (which have a similar texture to al dente pasta), and the blanket of creamy, milky mozz. All of the flavors complement each other as well, from the slightly salty strips of bacon to the refreshing, herbaceous zucchini sauce. It's easily one of the tastiest slices I've had in months.


On the other side of the cheesiness spectrum is the Amatricana ($5.75), which is more about the chunky tomato sauce cooked with bacon than it is about the cheese (which is really just a sprinkle of Pecorino Romano).

Other less traditional options include slices topped with shrimp and frisée, and a smoked salmon slice with cream cheese, capers, and onions. Slices range from $3 to $5.75, and you'll need at least two for a complete meal.


1702 India St., San Diego, CA, (map) 619-696-0802; na-pizza.com