Daily Slice: SliceTruck, Los Angeles

Slice: Los Angeles

Pizza reviews in the Los Angeles area.

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: Kelly Bone]

Love them or hate them, SliceTruck is here to stay. After pounding the pavment for two and a half years, brothers David and Chris Hanley have also opened a brick-and-mortar location in West Los Angeles. With the new location comes a curiously revamped dough.

The Slice ($3) and the Hot Garlic Slice ($3.5) look identical—I can't even tell them apart in these pictures—but with chopped fresh garlic and crushed red pepper slipped in between the sauce and cheese, the difference is dramatic. I love garlic but the sharp acidic of the raw chunks overwhelm the balance. Stick to the regular slice.

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The shelf above the kitchen proudly displays DOP San Marzano tomatoes; though I didn't pick up any bright tomato flavor. Still, the sauce is a visually stunning background to the light sheets of domestic mozzarella; but the talent of this slice is in the finish. Each is dressed, to order, with freshly snipped basil and hand shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano (sort of like another pizzeria the brothers are fans of).

The dense, but light, crust supports a crisp olive oil soaked edge. A crispness that extends from edge to tip. The underside is lovely, with a whisper of freckles across a lightly powdered face. Half way through the slice, a notably nutty taste becomes prevalent, likely from the Kamut flour. This heirloom wheat grain that is also friendly for those with gluten intolerances—something I know for sure I don't have. The taste and texture is... unique... and not quite good enough to convert the serious pizza bon vivant. But it's a solid slice choice in the neighborhood.

SliceTruck

2012 Sawtelle Blvd Los Angeles, CA 90025 (map) 310-444-9550; slicetruck.com