Let's call this the Slice home game—rather, the home-wrecking game. Surely the ramifications are nothing quite that serious, but the topic that sparked the spat certainly is.
A wistful wife swears by her standby pizza place. Her dubious husband wants no part of it. Who you gonna call? That was how Our Leader and I stumbled upon Frank's Pizza, a Gramercy Park mainstay that I left wishing would not stay.
Frank's is the kind of place I really did want to like. Its postage-stamp-size environs are inviting to sidewalk strollers. The vinyl-covered diner stools are as comfortable as the well-worn Formica countertops that line both sides of its lone room. The two-person staff was ready for our orders the minute we walked past the narrow dining area to the glass-enclosed serving station. In a word, this place is homey.
Unfortunately, the accolades end there, for Frank's is little more than the ubiquitous New York City "slice joint," the fast-food version of the pizza parlor. Two full pies were waiting to be divvied for the on-the-go lunch crowd one day last week. A reheat would have been bad enough, but these went straight to the paper plate. And not long after it went into my mouth, I was ready to go out the door. The crust was thicker than necessary, but still was not a burden on the bite. The cheese was flat, and lacked a defining flavor (needless to say, I'm skeptical of the menu's "fresh mozzarella" claims). On the other hand, its bright-red sauce, while far from perfection, was certainly passable for this level.
Therein lies the reason Frank's prevails: It isn't about striving for top quality among all pizza, but merely within its category. It's a pragmatic pie, one that serves for $11.50; at $1.50 a slice, it's better priced, and assembled, than most of the Famous Ray's variety.
If you need something to soak up the half-dozen pints you just swilled at Old Town Bar or Pete's Tavern, you could certainly do worse. But if great pizza is what you seek, there's no need to see for yourself—especially around these parts. Spend the extra money, and be grateful this neighborhood has two worthy places. La Pizza Fresca (31 East 20th Street, 212-598-0141) may appear somewhat gilded, but genteel pies like this are designed for serious consumers. Even better is newcomer Pinch:Pizza by the Inch (416 Park Avenue South, 212-686-5222). Gimmickry aside, it is one of the better places on the island. Each is considerably more refined, but, sadly, that has become the standard. Stellar slice joints catering to the local and lunchtime crowds are dwindling fast. Good pizza, with a little discernment, thankfully is not.
that's such a shame to hear! franks was my favorite slice during my stint at SVA's GW dorm around the block. I still long for their slices. I guess I need a better sliceducation.
I understand that Frank's Pizza is a chain, and I would like to contact the chain management about the Pompton Lakes, NJ location. Do they have a web site?
The Frank's Pizza in Pompton Lakes, NJ does not currently have a website...although I will pass on the word that it probably should have one! If you would like to know any specific information about the Pompton Lakes location I would suggest you call up the pizzeria itself and they will be mor than happy to answer your questions. However, unlike the Frank's mentioned above, the Pompton Lakes Frank's Pizza has amazing pizza. Their pizza is so good that it was voted "best pizza in Northern NJ" by the Suburban Trends.
BS. Frank's is awesome and distinct from the garden variety street slice joints. Never once have they had to reheat a slice for me, there's always a warm fresh slice waiting. The sauce has a unique flavor, as does the cheese. The dough can be, but is not always, a little on the thick side... but always with the appropriate degree of springiness and never chewy. The cheese can be a bit (well, a lot) greasier than most. But that's where the love is.
Seriously, I have to question the NYC pizza credentials of whoever wrote this. Frank's is no Grimaldi's or Johns or Patsy's.... but it is by far the king of the Street Slice. THE KING BABY.
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Frank's is the kind of place I really did want to like. Its postage-stamp-size environs are inviting to sidewalk strollers. The vinyl-covered diner stools are as comfortable as the well-worn Formica countertops that line both sides of its lone room. The two-person staff was ready for our orders the minute we walked past the narrow dining area to the glass-enclosed serving station. In a word, this place is homey.
Unfortunately, the accolades end there, for Frank's is little more than the ubiquitous New York City "slice joint," the fast-food version of the pizza parlor. Two full pies were waiting to be divvied for the on-the-go lunch crowd one day last week. A reheat would have been bad enough, but these went straight to the paper plate. And not long after it went into my mouth, I was ready to go out the door. The crust was thicker than necessary, but still was not a burden on the bite. The cheese was flat, and lacked a defining flavor (needless to say, I'm skeptical of the menu's "fresh mozzarella" claims). On the other hand, its bright-red sauce, while far from perfection, was certainly passable for this level.
Therein lies the reason Frank's prevails: It isn't about striving for top quality among all pizza, but merely within its category. It's a pragmatic pie, one that serves for $11.50; at $1.50 a slice, it's better priced, and assembled, than most of the Famous Ray's variety.
8 Comments:
that's such a shame to hear! franks was my favorite slice during my stint at SVA's GW dorm around the block. I still long for their slices. I guess I need a better sliceducation.
Slice neil at 12:44PM on 08/18/04
I understand that Frank's Pizza is a chain, and I would like to contact the chain management about the Pompton Lakes, NJ location. Do they have a web site?
Slice Rand at 1:01PM on 05/25/05
Veri nice site!
Slice Stefanie at 4:53PM on 09/02/05
The Frank's Pizza in Pompton Lakes, NJ does not currently have a website...although I will pass on the word that it probably should have one! If you would like to know any specific information about the Pompton Lakes location I would suggest you call up the pizzeria itself and they will be mor than happy to answer your questions. However, unlike the Frank's mentioned above, the Pompton Lakes Frank's Pizza has amazing pizza. Their pizza is so good that it was voted "best pizza in Northern NJ" by the Suburban Trends.
Slice Jessica at 9:09AM on 01/19/06
I work with Carmine the builder of Frank's Pizza Pompton Lakes. How can I help you! jc
Slice John Clark at 7:18PM on 09/02/06
franks pizza (nyc) is probably one of the best slices that i have ever tasted. it is delicious.
smithgrind23 at 9:36PM on 01/14/08
BS. Frank's is awesome and distinct from the garden variety street slice joints. Never once have they had to reheat a slice for me, there's always a warm fresh slice waiting. The sauce has a unique flavor, as does the cheese. The dough can be, but is not always, a little on the thick side... but always with the appropriate degree of springiness and never chewy. The cheese can be a bit (well, a lot) greasier than most. But that's where the love is.
Seriously, I have to question the NYC pizza credentials of whoever wrote this. Frank's is no Grimaldi's or Johns or Patsy's.... but it is by far the king of the Street Slice. THE KING BABY.
FatElvisForever at 3:27PM on 09/17/09
Frank may serve up some royal slices, but the King can only be found on Cross Bay Blvd in Howard Beach. NEW PARK PIZZA BABY.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 4:33PM on 09/17/09