THERE AND HERE Lombardi's, at 32 Spring Street in Manhattan, is both old and new. The original Lombardi's, licensed to sell pizza in 1905, was located at 53½ Spring Street. It closed some time ago and was reopened by the the original Lombardi's grandson in 1994 at 32 Spring Street.
Sometimes the Slice editorial team gets so caught up in search of the consummate New York pie, we often lose sight of how pampered pizza life in this town can be. Not that the arcana of turning coals (Lombardi's coal-fired oven is pictured at right) to produce a consistently charred crust isn't worthy of discussion; obviously it is, or none of us would be here. But every now and then, it's nice to get a kick in the tuches from outside the concrete jungle to remind us of the suffering that pizza lovers endure in much of the country.
Such was my experience after dining at Lombardi's a few weeks ago. Last month, my family was paid a visit by some of our oldest companeros, who flew three thousand miles with the stated goal of eating well—or at least well enough—for one week. New Yorkers by pedigree, all granted me a few hours' reprieve from suburban ennui to indulge, among other things, their taste buds.
If you find opinion polls accurate and important, then Lombardi's serves up as fine a pie as you're ever likely to slide onto your palate: Seven of the group's eight eaters are still salivating. If you're a skeptic by nature, or can't distinguish Gallup from a gallop or a galop, then perhaps you'll join me in taking the road less traveled. For the purists among us, sadly, Lombardi's has become another frayed page in Gotham's gastronomic history book.
As loyal Slice readers know, Lombardi's is the elder statesman of New York pizza. Founded by Gennaro Lombardi nearly one hundred years ago, this is America's original pizzeria (even if it is a few doors down from the patriarch's famed beginnings). Genetically speaking, every pizzeria is indebted to it. Culinarily speaking, this grande dame has seen better days. Its sons and grandsons—Patsy's, Totonno's, and Nick's among them—may be younger, but most of them are also much wiser, at least at making pizza.
We ordered three pies (see photo at left), sampling an array of toppings: sausage, mushrooms, and meatballs, in addition to the standard variety. None of the toppings jumps out as especially abundant or tasty, with the exception of fresh garlic (there's no charge; just ask). As for the basics, the fresh mozzarella is the highlight of the Lombardi's pie: smooth, sumptuous, and stellar—and it comes standard on all pies. The sauce was slightly tangy but lacked spice. I wonder if they've heard of oregano and basil, a few delicate herbs that might have elevated an otherwise average sauce beyond just "simply red."
There may be a more logical explanation for our pies' mediocrity. The crust was so unusually thick it made for a doughy delivery that distracted from the other flavors. And it got worse with each pie; number three was one of the thickest I've had in a while, and was even tough to chew in places. Even the vaunted coal-fired char couldn't outweigh these pies' rubber bottoms.
Why the disparity between my opinion and others'? Who can say. I recall Lombardi's serving a solid pie as recently as three years ago; this was the others' inaugural sampling. I have eaten more pies than I care to count from places like Di Fara; most members of my group are normally content driving through Fast Food Nation. (As family friend RL noted while his slice dripped olive-oil tears, "The only oil we get in California is from Jiffy Lube.")
So perhaps Lombardi's does serve a need. Most visitors are desperate to get their hands around a supple slice but aren't eager to stray far from downtown. Tucked into a charming double storefront just a stone's throw from Ethnictown, Lombardi's is convenient, inexpensive, and friendly. For those with just a few hours or even a few days to see the sights, Lombardi's has held up much better than its Little Italy famiglia and offers a solid if spare representation from the canon of New York pizza. But for locals and intrepid visitors interested in maximizing their exposure to pizza perfection, just a slight sleuthing of the streets will reap much greater rewards.
THUMBPRINT Twenty-seven years ago, after Seltzerboy broke his right arm, RL (above left) gave the 4-year-old tyke and his mom a lift to the hospital. Seltzerboy returned the favor last month by giving RL and his clan a ride to the pizza place of his dreams. PLIGHT AT THE ROUND TABLE Seltzerboy, his family, and a few lifelong friends (above right) enjoy an afternoon at Lombardi's last month. While the company was great, the pies at the Little Italy pizzeria were uneven.
Lombardi's rocks! Visited a couple of weeks ago with a gal pal and we sunk our teeth into a small pie with homemade meatballs, wild mushrooms and creamy ricotta. Delish!
you know, i've only been there twice, but both times i was disappointed. the wait, the soggy crust, the overpriced pies... i don't think i'll be going back.
We ate at Lombardi's several years ago because it was highly rated in our travel book. Our pizza arrived totally burned black on the bottom and tasted terrible. Our waitress said it was supposed to be that way and went on to say that the ovens are on all week and by the end of the week they are very hot. She wouldn't give us a refund, just a couple dollars off for a couple ingredients. We will never eat at this establishment again. Very overrated!!
just went to lombardi's for the first time new year's day. my review would be the exact same. crust too thick and not crisp. (and had a, not so much "odd", but "different" flavor). sauce bland. give me grimaldi's or john's or arturo's any day.
I didn't think badly of the crust; it seemed right to me, except the smokey flaver is overwhelming. The tomato sauce was bland. Not a bad cheese pizza; I'd go again to try sausage or pepperoni or garlic (or just to eat at a 100 year old pizzaria) but not before going to patsy's (or trying the other mentioned places like John's, Totonno's, etc.)
I'm a New Haven Pizza fanatic, it's the best hands down, especially the clam pie at Pepe's. Having said that, the clam pie at Lombardi's is awesome, different than New Haven and great in it's own right.
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Sometimes the Slice editorial team gets so caught up in search of the consummate New York pie, we often lose sight of how pampered pizza life in this town can be. Not that the arcana of turning coals (Lombardi's coal-fired oven is pictured at right) to produce a consistently charred crust isn't worthy of discussion; obviously it is, or none of us would be here. But every now and then, it's nice to get a kick in the tuches from outside the concrete jungle to remind us of the suffering that pizza lovers endure in much of the country.
We ordered three pies (see photo at left), sampling an array of toppings: sausage, mushrooms, and meatballs, in addition to the standard variety. None of the toppings jumps out as especially abundant or tasty, with the exception of fresh garlic (there's no charge; just ask). As for the basics, the fresh mozzarella is the highlight of the Lombardi's pie: smooth, sumptuous, and stellar—and it comes standard on all pies. The sauce was slightly tangy but lacked spice. I wonder if they've heard of oregano and basil, a few delicate herbs that might have elevated an otherwise average sauce beyond just "simply red."
7 Comments:
Lombardi's rocks! Visited a couple of weeks ago with a gal pal and we sunk our teeth into a small pie with homemade meatballs, wild mushrooms and creamy ricotta. Delish!
Slice The Vamp at 2:59PM on 06/21/04
you know, i've only been there twice, but both times i was disappointed. the wait, the soggy crust, the overpriced pies... i don't think i'll be going back.
Slice janelle at 10:10AM on 06/26/04
We ate at Lombardi's several years ago because it was highly rated in our travel book. Our pizza arrived totally burned black on the bottom and tasted terrible. Our waitress said it was supposed to be that way and went on to say that the ovens are on all week and by the end of the week they are very hot. She wouldn't give us a refund, just a couple dollars off for a couple ingredients. We will never eat at this establishment again. Very overrated!!
Slice dorie at 1:02PM on 07/20/04
just went to lombardi's for the first time new year's day. my review would be the exact same. crust too thick and not crisp. (and had a, not so much "odd", but "different" flavor). sauce bland. give me grimaldi's or john's or arturo's any day.
Slice Eric at 11:23PM on 01/02/05
yeah, i'd say john's is better. but i kid you not, try che bella on amsterdam @ 119th in morningside heights.
Slice jacknife at 9:45AM on 01/29/05
I didn't think badly of the crust; it seemed right to me, except the smokey flaver is overwhelming. The tomato sauce was bland. Not a bad cheese pizza; I'd go again to try sausage or pepperoni or garlic (or just to eat at a 100 year old pizzaria) but not before going to patsy's (or trying the other mentioned places like John's, Totonno's, etc.)
Slice h0mi at 8:39PM on 01/05/06
I'm a New Haven Pizza fanatic, it's the best hands down, especially the clam pie at Pepe's. Having said that, the clam pie at Lombardi's is awesome, different than New Haven and great in it's own right.
Slice Mike Devine at 4:04PM on 04/29/06