PrintUna Pizza Napoletana: This Is Hardcore
Location: 349 12th Street (East Village, b/n 1st/2nd aves.)
Nearest train: L Train to First Ave.
Phone: 212-477-9950
Hours: Thurs. & Fri., 5 p.m. until sold out of dough; Sat. & Sun., Noon until sold out of dough
Payment: Cash only
The Skinny: Get there early; proprietor Anthony Mangieri stops making pizza when the day's allotment of dough runs out. For now, it's BYO on the ALCO. No take-out, no delivery.
It took some convincing to get me out to Una Pizza Napoletana last night. I'd already eaten enough pizza for the week: an entire plain pie at Patsy's on Tuesday, then six slices at Patsy's again on Wednesday night. But when co-worker Honey P. reminded me of my plans to visit the new Neapolitan pizza shop that had just moved from Point Pleasant, New Jersey to the East Village—and offered her pleasant company for the excursion—I knew I couldn't shirk my pizza-eating duties.
And, ladies and gents, I'm glad I didn't. Una Pizza Napoletana was amazing. We arrived shortly before 7 p.m., worried there'd be a line. This wasn't the case, but as we stepped into the small, warmly lit space, we didn't see an open seat in the joint. Lucky for us, though, a couple had just gotten up from a four-topper table, and the friendly waiter told us he could seat us immediately if we didn't mind sharing a table with a gentleman who was on line just ahead of us. Hey, we're friendly folks at Slice, so of course we didn't mind.
It turned out that this gentleman had been a longtime regular at Una Pizza Napoletana's former New Jersey location. He and several other regulars had made the pilgrimage into the city to get their hands on some of Anthony Mangieri's (left) pies. That they were aching for Mr. Mangieri's pizza after having been deprived of it during the relocation, well, we took that as a very encouraging sign. Our de facto dining companion told us about Mr. Mangieri's exacting standards, about his passion for producing authentic Neapolitan pizza, about his history as a bread baker before turning his attention to pies, and about how Mr. Mangieri often closed up shop for weeks at a time while he traveled to Naples to hone his technique. "His grandfather owned a popular gelato shop in Newark," he informed us. "So the food business is in his blood."
Indeed, Mr. Mangieri is hardcore. From his menu:
Pizza—a word known all over the world, from New York City to Los Angeles, from Paris to Tokyo. It is a word used to describe many products; deep-dish, cracker thin, stuffed crust, etc. However, the meaning of the word "pizza" has been misunderstood and misrepresented over the years. Pizza only means one thing. It is Neapolitan—the word, the definition, the product. The word is a slang Neapolitan pronunciation of the word "pita." The history of pizza possibly can be traced back to the very beginnings of man and fire. Certainly, the pizza eaten today in the backstreets of Napoli is linked directly to the flat bread baked in Pompeii 2,000 years ago. This said, all the square, round, thick, stuffed and over-topped pieces of dough may be to your liking, but don't call it pizza.
Honey P., our dining companion, and I all agreed that this single-minded focus on doing things right and not cutting corners was to be admired and was exactly what's needed in the New York City pizza world, whether you're a pizzaiolo striving for authentic Neapolitan style or for the more common New York–Neopolitan style.
After about about 20 minutes of conversation, I ducked out to grab some beer at a bodega a couple doors down (Una Pizza Napoletana is BYOB for now, pending a license for wine and beer), and shortly after coming back to the table, our pies arrived. We had ordered the Margherita (San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, extra-virgin olive oil, fresh basil, and sea salt) and the Filetti (fresh cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, fresh garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, fresh basil, and sea salt). A quick pre-consumption examination of the crust revealed areas of careful charring—just the right amount—distributed across an otherwise crisp golden-brown background. The Margherita itself looked perfect, with dots of creamy melted mozzarella floating atop a bright-red layer of sauce. Fresh basil leaves that appeared to be just-wilted from the wood-fired oven's intense heat were scattered across. The Filetti appeared much the same, except for a smattering of halved cherry tomatoes that promised a burst of sweetness upon bite.
As delightful to the eye as the pies were, we were hungry, so, picking up knives and forks, Honey P. and I dug in. Yes, knives and forks: True to the Neapolitan way, Mr. Mangieri serves his 12-inch pies whole, and it's up to the customer to cut them at table.
The pizzas were stupendous. The crust was crisp and chewy with a pronounced but not overpowering woody flavor that complemented the satisfyingly salty dough. Every bite yielded easily discernable flavors: sweet fresh tomatoes, mild creamy buffalo mozz, and an oil of such an unbelievably high quality that it tasted like liquefied olives.
Remember all the Franny's frenzy of a few months ago? We at Slice predict that Una Pizza Napoletana will garner such praise in the weeks and months to come. As Cindy Adams says, "You heard it here first, kids."
Now let's talk about prices. These pies don't come cheap. At $16.95 per pie, Honey P. and I got out of there after dropping $50 (that's with tax and tip and two orange-flavored sodas, not counting our BYOB bottles of Stella Artois). But, as Mr. Mangieri's menu says (click on the images at top for a larger view), "We have no quarrel with the man who sells a cheaper pizza ... he knows how much his is worth!" Whether Una Pizza's pies are worth the price is up to you to decide. We think they are; we just don't think we could afford them as often as we'd like.
FURTHER READING
For more on Mr. Mangieri and Una Pizza Napoletana, read this story from the Asbury Park Press. Our de facto dining companion tipped us to it and told us that the reviewer is notoriously hard on local restaurants but raves about Una Pizza.
And, if you haven't done so, click on the menu images above to enlarge them. They contain a history of pizza and explain Mr. Mangieri's pizza philosophy.
Photos by Bob Bielk, Asbury Park Press.
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20 Comments:
I know where I am heading to, when I fly into NY on Halloween! I love his passion, but he comes off a little arogant on his menu.
Slice Brian Spangler at 6:09PM on 10/15/04
I just came in from having a Filetti pie. Friday 7PM, three tables were occupied. The quality of the ingredients was excellent. The flavor of the pizza was lacking. The cheese too subtle and the cherry tomatoes flavorless, virtually no garlic. The place is a bit pretentious, no condiments available other than sea salt (I'm only looking for some black or red pepper). I think once the intial curiousity wears off, they are going to have to make changes to keep the place full.
Slice PizzaPete at 8:42PM on 10/15/04
Ate there tonight. One word: Amazing. Perfectly salty crust complemented by lucious, full bodied olive oil. THIS IS THE BEST PIE IN NY. Two caveats. As you mentioned, price is quite expensive. And, I thought the great sweetness of the San Marzano tomato is a bit too understated in the pie. Honestly, though, try this pizza before its impossible to get in the door. I agree with Slice, this will be the place to go for pizza.
Slice Josh at 1:55AM on 10/17/04
uh-oh. we just might have to try to include this guy in the movie. we only have a month (december) to shoot NYC pizzerias and our list is already long, but this cat sounds like the realio dealio.
Slice Lingo at 1:05PM on 10/20/04
I went to this place on the recommendation of this site, and was really disappointed. Way too expensive for what it was, and there wasn't enough variation in the types of pies offered. Also the crust was disappointingly not as fluffy as it looks in the pictures. It seemed like a sad hipster joint.
Slice Kate at 12:53AM on 10/25/04
Went last night...seated right away...waited about 20 minutes for a Margheritaand Filetti...while another two seated behind and after us got theirs before us, that was annoying...but, the food was very good...watching Anthony work and interact with employees/customers was fun and real...the host was intense but friendly.
Slice Zed at 1:59PM on 12/05/04
One of the most delicious pizzas I have ever eaten. Savoring the Margherita pizza was a transcendental experience in perfection. Sublime, pure and without compromise. Anthony Mangieri imports from Italy the DOP San Marzano tomatoes, the mozzarella de bufala, the stone ground wheat berry four (hand mixed) and the Sicilian sea salt. All goes into a traditional wood-fired brick oven and what comes out is Vera Pizza Napoletana. Enjoy!
Slice Budinado at 4:40PM on 02/21/05
The best Pizza in the world!! His skills and dedication are even more impressive than when he was in NJ. Una Pizza is not pretentious or hipster.. it is the real deal. A man devout in his craft and the labors of his love.
Slice lord sterling at 1:56AM on 06/02/05
THE BEST
Slice orson Salicetti at 9:44PM on 11/28/05
Best Pie I have had! Simple place, menu and employees. All attention is on the quality of the pie!
The BEST!
Slice Patrick Grupe at 4:02PM on 01/01/06
i hate una pizza napoletano it sucks. I can't stand their attitude> I eat about 3 slices a day from 2-3 pizza shops. I love pizza so much it is crazy. I have lived in 4 boro's and had favorites every where. Last night we went to UNA PIZZA N. and then walked to John's on Bleeker and just to tell them we love them, and to alert them of this Pizza natzi.
THE WAR HAS BEGUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Slice ultimate new yorker at 12:34PM on 03/20/06
i was really let down by pizza napoletana as well! i have lived in italy and eaten many pizzas in napoli. while what's-his-name's pizza is great it, is assuredly NOT worth his price. a pie of that quality is standard in italy, but costs about half as much. seems like you are paying for prentense at una pizza napoletana.
furthermore, he unabashedly attacks new york style pizzerias. i was shocked that SliceNY endorsed him because he goes against the site's respect to the NY pizza greats. i think he should take his 20$ (12 inch) pie to italy and try to make a living there. i doubt he's last a month.
-pizza WAR-
Slice pizza expert at 10:25PM on 03/20/06
i was really let down by pizza napoletana as well! i have lived in italy and eaten many pizzas in napoli. while what's-his-name's pizza is great it, is assuredly NOT worth his price. a pie of that quality is standard in italy, but costs about half as much. seems like you are paying for prentense at una pizza napoletana.
furthermore, he unabashedly attacks new york style pizzerias. i was shocked that SliceNY endorsed him because he goes against the site's respect to the NY pizza greats. i think he should take his 20$ (12 inch) pie to italy and try to make a living there. i doubt he's last a month.
-pizza WAR-
Slice pizza expert at 10:27PM on 03/20/06
se you no like a da pizza , shutup u facea - i no caia whata you say -- una pizza napolitana is splendiforus !!! because antoni is passionate, full of love - anda da ennergie of the pizza is fantastic - say u no like? you don no what you talking about, wake up and be free - no afraid and jelous-be happy ok -- ciao! gio
Slice giovanni at 10:48PM on 05/02/06
his pizza is the best. people complain about the price but the pizza is worth it. so many people grew up new york style pizza or whatever and so be it. this is as authentic italian pizza as you will get here in america. so it doesn't come with cheese and pepperoni embedded in the crust, that is what pizza hut is for. when you want something special, while here you go. and the crowds speak for themselves, but people do like it, try stopping by when it is not busy and I am sure your negative atmosphere experiences will be completely different.
Slice rocktits at 6:44PM on 05/03/06
years ago I used to live down the block and the dealers kept their stash in the nearest tree to UPN; the pies aren't that much cheaper and are almost as addictive; the disillusioned? everyone gets a bad count now and then, it doesn't mean you get on the wagon...
Slice Skank at 7:39PM on 05/03/06
I wish I lived in the states, Toronto is waste land of bad pizza. The "authentic" places go for the too thin, non-existant sauce thing. Nobody has sausage. I get better pizza at ANY place I visit in Buffalo, guess I should get to NYC sometime. I have to quibble with your choice brew there though, Stella is over priced, overexposed pop. We call it the Labatt Blue of Europe. surely you have some good crafts' down there, failing that Pilsner Urquell is a fine choice. Good site, glad to find it. Glen
Slice glen smith at 6:35PM on 08/08/06
This place is a joke. Its never open, and it appears the owner closes down as he pleases. If this is the way to run a business, I see no direction but down for this snobby resturant. Nothing special here, save your time and energy and hit up other serious pizza establishments throughout the city. Lombardi's, John's Pizzaria, Patsy's, Grimaldi's just to name a few.
Slice NothingSpecialHere at 2:32AM on 08/20/06
ok so i'ne reading all the lists about the best pizza in New york Cityand decided to try some of the ones that I didn't know. Since I just love good pizza! Una Pizza Napoletana at 349 E 12th street in Manhattan was at or near the top of many best pizza lists in the city. So my friend and I decided to try it on Sundat December 17,2006. the place seats about 30-40 ,people and is quite pleasant. They did a really nice job of creating a very tastefull, stylish,straightforward, understated and high quality place. With good paint, good lighting, nice marble tables, tiled floors and a comfortable upscale simplicity and directness. I did have the feeling of being in aplace that might have been in Italy. Which rerally reflects their ideas about really good pizza. Pure, straightforward, simple highh quality ingredients that is loovingly prepared. Good flour, high quality olive oil, San Marzanno tomatoes, good and real buffalo mozzerella, frsh basil. Attractively served. And attractively prepared in full view of patrons in a wood fired open oven, by an attractive and stylish tatooed hunk. Very cool downtown style. They only make 3 types of pizza, margheritta, marinara, anf filetto (fresh cerry tomatoes). Which is smart. Do what you do well and keep it at that. Pure and uncomplicated. And there is only one size as well. So we decided to split a margheritta( tomatoe, mozzerella, basil) since it was $21 for one pie. We waited in anticipation, mouths watering as the pie arrived. We were surprised at how small the pie was 12 inches, maybe total of 3 or 2 large traditional NYC pizza slices. But we accepted our dismay at the size and were hoping the taste would compensate somewhat foe the small size. Well, the pizza was really very good, but definetly not great. First off, there was just a smidgen of tomatoe sauce that you could barely taste, and the crust good but a little doughy and not as crisp as we would have expected. Look, the pie was good but really stingy. And at $21 really and truly a major rip off. You would need at least a pie per person to begin to be satiated. Now this goes against what pizza is about and has become. A great democratic,egalitarian eating expeience, at reasonable prices that everyone can partake in comfortably and enjoy. i found the experience really offensive for that reason. And felt as if I had been taken in by a giant scam supported by the media and "foodies". There was no mention of the astronomical price in any of the articles or lists I read about pizzeria. SLICENY was theonly onethat mentioned price and as of now it is outdated because it is now $21 not $16.95. Now I support what they are trying to do in terms of fresh, pure ,wholesome, straightforward ingedients. And know that those ingrediebts are going to cost more but there is no way that a stingy, small simple pie needs to be $21, and when you add tax and tip it's even more offensive and outrageous. This hould not be supported. There is absolutely no justificationfor this and sets a dangerous trend to take away the joy and accessabilty of pizza for all. Their food costs could not justify their price in any way. Yet the place was packed. It makes one realize how people can be propgandized and programmed to do just about anything. This is not just my complaint about a rip off and exhorbitant prices for not much product, but hopefully an awakening to stop this un it's tracks now and to keep good pizza available for everyone. Please post this on your site Thank You Ciao
Slice yummyboy at 6:38PM on 12/18/06
Just watched a wonderful short documentary on Una Pizza - definitely recommended!
http://www.snagfilms.com/films/title/pure_and_simple/
skyler at 12:17PM on 07/20/09