Posted by correspondent, November 23, 2004 at 12:36 AM
Editor's note: This is the debut entry of our new New Jersey correspondent, "Steve, the Englishman Who Likes Pizza Hut." As his nom de blog suggests, Steve hails from the UK. He now lives in New Jersey with his wife, Amanda G., who happens to be our New Jersey bureau chief. And yes, he likes Pizza Hut. (Hey, it was the best deal going in Portsmouth!)
MELTDOWN: Our New Jersey correspondent, Steve, the Englishman Who Likes Pizza Hut, prepares to enter Domino's (top left) on a mission to try the new Doublemelt pie. The concoction was on special recently (top right), and Steve and wife Amanda G., who is Slice's New Jersey bureau chief, braved Domino's ultracolorful interior (above) to bring you this report. Amanda was even able to get photos of a Doublemelt under construction (right).
FURTHER READING Oh So Cheesy: The New York Times takes a look at the origin of the Doublemelt. Adam K. Chimes In: "I had a Doublemelt shortly after Amanda and Steve pitched this story idea. I found it to be utterly grody. The whole cheese–ranch dressing 'melt' layer? Eeww. Sorry, Steve: I'm giving this one a thumbs down."
Words by Steve, the Englishman Who Likes Pizza Hut .::. Photographs by Amanda G. .::. After seeing a multitude of ads for the new Doublemelt pizza from Domino’s, I felt that I should cast a critical eye over this new culinary invention (at the behest of Slice's New Jersey bureau chief Amanda G., of course). So, casting aside my prejudices towards the mass-produced, bastardized version of pizza from which Domino’s has made its millions, I headed to a local branch of the chain. The first thing that I was shocked to discover was the constant flow of delivery drivers leaving this location at 11:30 on a Sunday morning. I guess it had never struck me that the first thing I needed to do upon waking up on Sunday was to pick up the phone and dial Domino’s. Then I realized I was at Domino’s at 11:30 a.m. on a Sunday, so decided it was in my best interest to just concentrate on the job at hand.
This particular Domino’s has been open for about 18 months, but its interior was still absolutely pristine. Of course, there was no discernible atmosphere, but I doubt if anyone has ever visited Domino’s for its Old World charm. I placed an order for a pepperoni Doublemelt for the introductory price of $9.99. Explaining we were writing a review for this site, Amanda G. asked if she could take some pictures of the pizza preparation process. I actually expected to be told that there was some policy from up high that forbid pictures, but was pleasantly surprised when Amanda was welcomed behind the counter and allowed to watch as a wafer-thin crust was covered with a cheesy ranch spread, topped with another wafer-thin crust, and topped with the rest of the pizza fixins per the strict guidelines illustrated on a poster above the preparation station.
The pizza was then fed into the usual conveyer belt so popular with pizza chains, and in about two minutes I was ready to experience the pizza called Doublemelt. I picked up a slice, which separated from the pie leaving stringy strands of the "melt" hanging down. There was no familiar bend in the crust, which was just a rigid, almost crackerlike substrate that simply supported, but did not absorb, the flavors of sauce, cheese, and pepperoni. Biting into the slice, it felt like Passover revisited, like biting into another piece of Matzo but this time with a tangy ranch-flavored cheese sauce seeping out of the middle. To the Doublemelt’s credit, the toppings were pretty flavorful.
Now personally, I'm not a fan of Domino’s regular crust pizza (which rates only slightly above frozen varieties), so this was actually a pleasant surprise. I ate several more slices and felt full without the ball-of-dough-sinking-in-my-gut sensation I've endured in the past. In fact, an hour or so later it didn't feel like I'd eaten anything, which may be a good thing if you have a pizza marathon ahead of you. In conclusion, the Doublemelt is a tasty addition to Domino’s menu—and is probably the only thing I might ever want to eat there—but it is definitely not real pizza.
Wonderful article. I didn't realise there was a use for great vats of 'Ranch Dressing' (whatever that is). The description of the production process made me nauseous - in the afternoon! Please see this as a compliment of your writing skills.
You might change your mind if you actually knew what that middle layer was or what it looks like when it dries. It's actually cheese and oil that's been mixed together. Not ranchy at all.
And if you're like most people, an hour later you won't be feeling like you didn't eat anything--you'll be in the bathroom wishing you didn't eat that.
A medium should get 5oz of that middle cheese. Maybe yours had less?
I had quite a different experience with the DoubleMelt pizza. I thought it was bland. From the commercials, it looks like the concoction in the middles is supposed to be a nice, gushy layer of even more cheese than what is on top of the pizza. What it turned out to be was a very thin layer of supposedly cheese-flavored spread. It was so not worth the money, my time or the calories.
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MELTDOWN: Our New Jersey correspondent, Steve, the Englishman Who Likes Pizza Hut, prepares to enter Domino's (top left) on a mission to try the new Doublemelt pie. The concoction was on special recently (top right), and Steve and wife Amanda G., who is Slice's New Jersey bureau chief, braved Domino's ultracolorful interior (above) to bring you this report. Amanda was even able to get photos of a Doublemelt under construction (right). 
This particular Domino’s has been open for about 18 months, but its interior was still absolutely pristine. Of course, there was no discernible atmosphere, but I doubt if anyone has ever visited Domino’s for its Old World charm. I placed an order for a pepperoni Doublemelt for the introductory price of $9.99. Explaining we were writing a review for this site, Amanda G. asked if she could take some pictures of the pizza preparation process. I actually expected to be told that there was some policy from up high that forbid pictures, but was pleasantly surprised when Amanda was welcomed behind the counter and allowed to watch as a wafer-thin crust was covered with a cheesy ranch spread, topped with another wafer-thin crust, and topped with the rest of the pizza fixins per the strict guidelines illustrated on a poster above the preparation station.
The pizza was then fed into the usual conveyer belt so popular with pizza chains, and in about two minutes I was ready to experience the pizza called Doublemelt. I picked up a slice, which separated from the pie leaving stringy strands of the "melt" hanging down. There was no familiar bend in the crust, which was just a rigid, almost crackerlike substrate that simply supported, but did not absorb, the flavors of sauce, cheese, and pepperoni. Biting into the slice, it felt like Passover revisited, like biting into another piece of Matzo but this time with a tangy ranch-flavored cheese sauce seeping out of the middle. To the Doublemelt’s credit, the toppings were pretty flavorful. 
Now personally, I'm not a fan of Domino’s regular crust pizza (which rates only slightly above frozen varieties), so this was actually a pleasant surprise. I ate several more slices and felt full without the ball-of-dough-sinking-in-my-gut sensation I've endured in the past. In fact, an hour or so later it didn't feel like I'd eaten anything, which may be a good thing if you have a pizza marathon ahead of you. In conclusion, the Doublemelt is a tasty addition to Domino’s menu—and is probably the only thing I might ever want to eat there—but it is definitely not real pizza.
5 Comments:
Given that this guy is from the UK and likes Pizza Hut, I'm a bit skeptical that he has any crediblity to judge whether this is pizza is good or real.
Slice Brutal Hugger at 2:21PM on 11/23/04
Wonderful article. I didn't realise there was a use for great vats of 'Ranch Dressing' (whatever that is). The description of the production process made me nauseous - in the afternoon! Please see this as a compliment of your writing skills.
Slice debra at 6:55PM on 11/23/04
You might change your mind if you actually knew what that middle layer was or what it looks like when it dries. It's actually cheese and oil that's been mixed together. Not ranchy at all.
And if you're like most people, an hour later you won't be feeling like you didn't eat anything--you'll be in the bathroom wishing you didn't eat that.
A medium should get 5oz of that middle cheese. Maybe yours had less?
Slice Anonymous at 2:54AM on 11/24/04
I had quite a different experience with the DoubleMelt pizza. I thought it was bland. From the commercials, it looks like the concoction in the middles is supposed to be a nice, gushy layer of even more cheese than what is on top of the pizza. What it turned out to be was a very thin layer of supposedly cheese-flavored spread. It was so not worth the money, my time or the calories.
Slice Peeved Michelle at 12:14PM on 11/24/04
I wanted to commit seppuku after the Double Melt, but that's just me.
Slice Jen at 8:57PM on 11/29/04