Williamsburg newcomer Fornino gets a write-up in the Daily News:

You have to be very sure of yourself to divide the entire history of pizza into three stages: Naples; then the rest of Italy; then your own Brooklyn cafe. But that's how Michael Ayoub does it on the menu of Fornino, his ambitious new Williamsburg pizzeria.

One Sunday night we ordered a pie from "The First Generation" of Neapolitan classics ($8/$14). The Margherita had an austere tomato and mozzarella topping on a crackly, blistered crust and a hint of smoke that came from the gas-fired, wood-burning oven whose temperature can reach 1,000 degrees, said our waitress....

From the "Second Generation" of regional Italian pies we chose one from Lombardi that was covered with mozzarella, thin curls of prosciutto and brilliantly fresh arugula ($10/$16). Although the toppings were perfect, the oven temperature must have dropped, making the crust pale and chewy....

And our "Third Generation" pie was a dud. Maybe it was our fault. Why in the world, scolded the pizza maven, would we order one with lamb sausage, two cheeses, roasted peppers and pistachios? ($10/$16)

Still, this story's writer, Irene Sax, who frequently writes about pizza for the News, says she'd "go back in a second," won over by the antipasto and homemade tortoni and spumoni and, we're guessing, the "first generation" pie.

Tien and I visited Fornino on opening night. We concur with Ms. Sax on the "generations": Our favorite pie of that night was the simple Margherita.

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