'Daily News' Pans DeMarco's
Getting to this a bit late here, but on Friday, the Daily News panned DeMarco's, the new-ish Di Faraaffiliated spin-off in Manhattan at Houston and MacDougal streets. We were particularly interested in this item because a friend of ours, Youthlarge had posted on her site that she and her husband thought it blew, and we've been getting a lot of comments on our review of DeMarco's, where the pizzeria is taking a beating. Here's what the News's Irene Sax has to say:
... Are the new guys as good?
The answer, sadly, is no, even though the new place is owned by De Marco's son and daughter, along with some of his longtime customers. But it is good, and will surely get better as they learn to work with their ovens....
The first whiff promised well. A light San Marzano tomato sauce with none of the corn syrup that ruins so many. The cheese seemed like fresh mozzarella, the meatballs were excellent, and there was a sprinkling of grated cheese over the top.
But the crust, alas, was as rigid and brittle as a cracker. This was a slice you couldn't possibly fold in half: I was lucky to cut it with a knife. And it was so thin that the center of each slice was soggy from the sauce. What a disappointment.
She does say that the square pie she tried had a rich, meaty sauce and that while the "crust lacked salt and soul," the topping "more than made up for it." Ms. Sax concludes the piece saying she'll try DeMarco's again, having said earlier that it is goodit just needs improvement.
Indeed, we at Slice need to try this pie again. We were pleased with slices we got from the take-out portion of the shop when we tried it earlier in January, but we did notice it was crisp and lacked the chewiness of a Di Fara pie. Once Seltzerboy comes off the injured list, we'll hit it up again, this time in the dining room.
All Slice posts on DeMarco's [The Slice Archives]