Posted by Adam Kuban, December 12, 2005 at 10:54 AM
With reports of homemade-mozzarella-topped pies and a pizza pedigree that comes in part from working with the Nick's empire, it's not surprising that Anthony's is turning out a great Neapolitan pie.
I went yesterday for a late lunch and opted for a margherita, a benchmark I use when trying a new place. With the exception of some tip sag, the pie was excellent. The remarkably light and airy crust exhibited a decent amount of charring and a very nice amount of oven spring, especially evident in the cornichone, the rim of the pizza (above left). It had some chewiness to it, but was softer and more forgiving on the jaw than many other Neapolitan pies I've had lately.
The sauce was noticeably fresh and mildly zesty and the mozzarella was creamy and pleasantly stringy. The overall cheese-sauce ratio was good, but there was some bunching of cheese on one of the slices (which sogged the crust and prevented a nice char on the underside) and only a couple bites' worth on another. But that's not a dealbreaker on the first visit.
Providing a nice finish to each slice was the cornichone, or "end crust," which had a dusting of Parmesan cheese baked into it. Not in a gimmicky way, though. Anthony's might take offense to this, but it tasted like a really good version of Pizza Pretz, a Japanese pizza-flavored snack.
A recent New York magazine blurb on Anthony's opening explains the origin of the name: "[Owner Sal Buglione built the kind of pizzeria he] always imagined surprising his dad with. “We’d pull up, I’d say, ‘Hey, look, Anthony’s, let’s get a pizza,’ then I’d say, ‘This is for you.’ ” ...
We think Anthony Buglione would have been proud of what his sons built.
ANTHONY'S Location: 426A Seventh Ave. (Park Slope; b/n 14th and 15th), Brooklyn NY 11215 Phone: 718-369-8315 Cost: Plain margherita, $11; marinara, $10; white pie, $11 Payment: Paper and plastic The Skinny: Light, airy crust with homemade mozzarella and a fresh, zesty sauce. The 10-inch Neapolitan-style pies taste like small versions of New York's coal-oven heavyweights.
Adam,
I may be an idiot, but I assumed a "review" would have the address of the establishment somewhere along the way. I know there are links to where we can get the address, but that's a bit cumbersome.
Jeff: You're not an idiot. I posted this fast during my lunch break at work, shortly before going to the annual company meeting. I realized two hours into the meeting that I had forgotten the bottom-of-the-post contact info. So sorry. It's there now.
We tried Anthony's Pizza here last night for delivery here in Park Slope Brooklyn. The pizza arrived fairly quickly, however the entire pizza was completely soggy from the tip of each slice to the rim of the pie. The pie was also, lest than even luke warm. Had I know I guess I could have put our oven on to high to warm it up but that sort of defeats the purpose. The pie was delicious and they were generous with the toppings (sausage, peppers and onions).But at $23.00 bucks for a pie I really do expect it to be crispy and at least hot. I did call to let them know and they seemed interested, but other than that there was no other response.
Yeah. Delivery with a place like Anthony's is always dicey. You're going to lose all the crispness and goodness of the crust that a place like that works so hard on. You're almost always better off getting a pie from a regular joint delivered and spending less money. —Adam
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4 Comments:
Adam,
I may be an idiot, but I assumed a "review" would have the address of the establishment somewhere along the way. I know there are links to where we can get the address, but that's a bit cumbersome.
Jeff
Slice Jeffrey Grossman at 3:25PM on 12/12/05
Jeff: You're not an idiot. I posted this fast during my lunch break at work, shortly before going to the annual company meeting. I realized two hours into the meeting that I had forgotten the bottom-of-the-post contact info. So sorry. It's there now.
Adam Kuban at 8:37PM on 12/12/05
We tried Anthony's Pizza here last night for delivery here in Park Slope Brooklyn. The pizza arrived fairly quickly, however the entire pizza was completely soggy from the tip of each slice to the rim of the pie. The pie was also, lest than even luke warm. Had I know I guess I could have put our oven on to high to warm it up but that sort of defeats the purpose. The pie was delicious and they were generous with the toppings (sausage, peppers and onions).But at $23.00 bucks for a pie I really do expect it to be crispy and at least hot. I did call to let them know and they seemed interested, but other than that there was no other response.
Slice Bob Betke at 3:36PM on 11/14/06
Yeah. Delivery with a place like Anthony's is always dicey. You're going to lose all the crispness and goodness of the crust that a place like that works so hard on. You're almost always better off getting a pie from a regular joint delivered and spending less money. —Adam
Adam Kuban at 3:56PM on 11/14/06