'Details' Magazine Pizza Roundup
Pity poor Ed Levine. When his workday doesn't involve ordering one of each doughnut at a well-regarded New York City doughnuttery, he gets to eat pizza from some of the country's best pizzerias and write about it for Details magazine. His findings cover some familiar ground to readers of Slice and of Mr. Levine's 2005 book PIzza: A Slice of Heaven, but there are some new entries to be savored.
Pizzeria Bianco [623 East Adams Street, Phoenix AZ 85004; map] "The sauce tastes like a distillation of the ripest tomatoes."
Di Fara[1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn NY 11230; map] "... a Di Fara slice has a one-of-a-kind flavor."
Totonno's [1524 Neptune Ave., Brooklyn NY 11224; map] "Order the white pie, made with ricotta, mozzarella, and enough fresh garlic to ward off a roomful of vampires."
Una Pizza Napoletana [349 East 12th Street, New York NY 10003; map] "The magic lies in the puffy dough, made without packaged yeast; the premium extra-virgin olive oil; and and the Sicilian sea salt."
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana [157 Wooster Street, New Haven CT 06511; map] "Frank Pepe has a beautiful white igloo-shaped brick oven, an awe-inspiring clam pie befitting the local shellfish, and, naturally, interminable waits."
Sally's Apizza [237 Wooster Street, New Haven CT 06511; map] "The piesmade with or without mozzarella, a dusting of Romano cheese, and, in summer, slices of local tomato are works of art."
Al Forno [577 South Main Street, Providence RI 02903; map] "The supermodel-thin [grilled] pizzas are discs of crunchy, smoky pleasure topped with items like fresh-picked Rhode Island corn, homemade sausage ..."
Picco [513 Tremont Street, Boston MA 02116; map] "A full meal here means a highly appealing puffy-crusted pizza adorned with fresh mozzarellaa rarity in Boston, where aged yellow cheese is the tnormfollowed by a phenomenal array of ice-cream flavors."
2 Amys [3715 Macomb Street NW, Washington DC 20016; map] "[Pizzaiolo Edan] MacQuaid's pies have crust with the fine hole structure found in great bread, plus the right amount of char."
Punch Neapolitan Pizza [704 Cleveland Avenue South, Saint Paul MN 55116; map] "[Owner John Sorrano's] mozzarella comes from New York and Campana, his sauce is made of crushed San Marzano tomatoes, and his sea salt took him half a year to track down."
Nostrana [1401 SE Morrison, Portland OR 97214; map] "... superb work with pork sausage made from heritage breeds of pigs, creamy house-made mozzarella, and a 750-degree wood-burning oven..."
Serious Pie [316 Virginia Street, Seattle WA 98101; map] "... The crust is ultra-crispy, with plenty of air bubbles, and it has a splash of olive oil that gives it a glossy, caramelized exterior."
Mozza Bar [641 North Highland Avenue, Los Angeles CA 90036; map] "... [Nancy Silverton's] breadlike crust is two inches high, but unlike that of Chicago deep-dish, it has a light, crisp exterior and a tender, moist interior."
Pizzeria Picco [320 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur CA 94939; map] "... [Chef-owner Bruce Hill's] pizza is lightweight and properly pliant...."
Pizzaiolo [5008 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland CA 94609; map] "... Made in a wood-burning oven with first-rate California ingredients..."