Mailbag: Abate Pizza

Dear Slice

Slice mail answered.

Dear Slice,

If you ever make it back to New Haven, you could do a lot worse than Abate, just a little way down Wooster Street from the better known places. Always overlooked because of its famous neighbors, you won't get slow or rude service there, and the pizza is excellent. Modern is excellent also. Considered one of the big three but seemingly without all the attitude of the other two. I've had some great pizza at numerous places in the greater New Haven area. There are some mediocre places in New Haven as well, but, in general, the standard is a lot higher there.

On a totally unrelated subject, I saw someone raving about Casserta's in Providence, Rhode Island, and comparing it to the best of the best. Bleecch, I say. As a frequent visitor to Providence, I think they have a fantastic Italian section—great restaurants and salumerias to die for. But pizza? Markedly inferior. Regular slices at Casserta's were mediocre. Spinach pie is great if you enjoy a mini calzone stuffed with lots of soggy, gray-green, overcooked frozen spinach. Tried pizza at three different places in the area and was disappointed at all of them. I finally decided it was just something they didn't do well in Rhode Island (they do a lot of other things well).

—Jim H.

Dear Jim,
Thanks for the tips. Slice has been to Pepe's and Sally's the "famous neighbors" of Abate that I'm sure you're referring to. Modern Apizza has long been on our to-try list, but Abate itself is a new one for us.

As for Rhode Island, Slice hasn't been. What about Al Forno, home of grilled pizza? We've heard great things about it. Have you been?

Hasta la pizza,

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