The New York Times heads west and checks out the pizza at Mozza, the Mario Batali–Nancy Silverton upscale pizza joint in Los Angeles.

Ms. Silverton, who started her career as a pastry chef and is an accomplished baker, makes crusts with extraordinary character: softly chewy in spots, crisply charred in others, ever so faintly sweet, even more faintly sour. There’s some rye flour in her dough and some malt, and she lets it sit for 36 hours before she uses it....

Although not conventionally thick, her crusts are denser and weightier than the Neapolitan ideal, reflecting her stated love of the pizza bianca sold by several bakeries around Campo de’ Fiori in Rome. Instead of an actual topping, pizza bianca has perhaps a gloss of oil and maybe a dusting of herbs, forcing you to focus on what has become of the dough. It’s spongy, like focaccia, but with less air inside and more crunch outside....

Although Ms. Silverton is fixated on dough, she doesn’t ignore the balance of the pizza. The toppings for each of roughly 15 kinds of pies have well-chosen, well-balanced ingredients: meaty fennel sausage, creamy buffalo milk mozzarella, expertly cured meats....

It's an overwhelmingly positive review, and the only complaint Mr. Bruni had about the pizza was that the crusts of a few pies were too broad, as you can see in this photo.

FURTHER READING
Slice's overlord, Ed Levine tried the pizza at Mozza ages ago. Here's his take.