Remember that rave review Village Voice food critic Robert Sietsema gave Il Brigante the other week?

New York Times food critic Frank Bruni says, "huh," slamming the new pizzeria and, by extension, Sietsema.

If his point is that Neapolitan pizza is unduly romanticized, and that your standard pizza pie in Naples is not necessarily some gastronomically wondrous epiphany, then O.K., there’s some merit to what he’s saying.

But his point seems to be that he loved this pie. My lunch companion and I found nothing lovable about it.

I haven't been yet, but now I'm even more curious...

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