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How to Find the Perfect Pizza

In Allure magazine, of all places, there's Anthony Mangierei of Una Pizza Napoletana, telling readers how to find the perfect pizza. An excerpt:

Check out the facilities. When you walk into the restaurant, look for a wood-fire oven—a large brick kiln with a burning fire. The heat it generates cooks the crust perfectly; it will be crispy, yet still chewy and soft, and the ingredients will be cooked just enough for the flavors to combine, but not so much that they lose their form or taste. The place should smell slightly smoky (that's from the oven) and like a really good bakery (that's the dough cooking). But you don't want to smell grease. I know a lot of people associate that aroma with a slice, but trust me, it's not the sign of an amazing pizza.

There are other tells to watch for in the article—cooking time and crust thickness among them—but what you have to keep in mind when you read Mr. Mangieri's advice is that it comes from a very unique point of view. Mr. Mangieri makes a very good pie, to be sure, but if you were to take his advice in Allure,, you'd only find yourself eating at a handful—one handful—of pizzerias in the U.S.

So perhaps the story should be titled "How to Find the Perfect Wood-Fired Oven Pizza Made in the Neapolitan Style," because that's really what this tip sheet boils down to.

9 Comments:

it's funny he starts with, "check out the facilities." i usually like to start with, "hmm.. what does the pizza taste like?"

True, but I'd give him the benefit of the doubt on this one, since you're going to take in the visual cues before you even order a pie. If you saw they were making the pizza in a microwave, you'd (hopefully) be heading for the door.

Some of the best pies I've had have come out of gas fired ovens. You can tell a great pie just by looking at it, and you can finally make judgment by tasting it. By the way, Mr. Mangieri's didn't cut the mustard in that whole taste category.

I'm kind of speechless.....this is such crap. He really needs to get out more

You couldn't be more right...brick oven is where it's at. My only problem is trying to get it takeout - once it sits in the box for a while, the crispiness just vanishes.

He forgot one very important judging element....do not trust a place that does not run out of dough before it closes for the day.

Definition of Pizza- Brick oven, Nice bright red sauce, just the right amount of cheese,Large pieces of fresh Basil. Ant, you are absolutly correct about the dough running out! Only people that know what a real pizza taste like would understand that comment.
South Jesey needs help in making pizza. It's like eating a grilled cheese sandwhich everytime I order a pizza here! The sauces either have no flavor or spices that should'nt be within 50 feet of a pizza! I have to travel 20 minutes to South Philly to get a good pizza.Eventhough I am a Philly guy, I have to admit the Mother of all pizza is made in NY.

Tony,

I was actually being facetious. I know Mr Mangieri has exacting standards when it comes to making a pizza, but if you are only open 4 days a week make enough dough Monday through Wednesday to ensure you can service the folks that make a special trip to your establishment and are willing to throw down $20.00 on a 12" pie. I know he has a religious devotion to his 36 hour rise time, but make sure you have enough in the queue to quote standard hours of operation. I would think $20.00 price points pretty much insulate his margins should he make some extra dough balls.

I think Mangieri much enjoys being a pain in the ass iconoclast as much as being a Pizzaiolo.

I start by staying away from any place that serves food other than pizza and Italian dishes. I am grateful there are still enough places like that left.

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