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14th Street and Below: A DJ Bubbles Drive-By

Pizza Box: A new top-5 Manhattan slice contender? Find out below »

It's all good in the hood. I am happy to report that the state of the slice below 14th Street in Manhattan could be much worse. I know I haven't hollered at you in a minute, but I've been around town, and I'm about to break it down.

In recent weeks, I've traversed all three Villages, SoHo, and several other sub-14 neighborhoods—stopping at joints that haven't been hit by a DJB Drive By and checking in at some of my familiar spots. I've hit up Vinny Vincenz on two different occasions, took Una Pizza to school on a Sunday night, and housed random slices at random joints. Should I ease off the pie pedal to appease my Doc and go for the six pack? No, it's not gonna go down like that—I'm keeping it real and charging it back to the pie game! Here's a breakdown of some of the highlights (and disappointments) of my recent jaunts.

On Notice: Bleecker Street and Food Network

For starters, let me say this: The DJ is issuing a direct call out to the Food Network. Let me be clear: Bleecker Street is not New York City's top pie. The Food Network appears to think otherwise—the wack TV network has awarded the prize of New York's best pizza to BSP. Bleecker Street Pizza is not New York's top pie. Bleecker Street is not even the West Village's top pie. BSP has a decent nonna slice, but its plain slice is nothing more than overcooked, greasy slop coming out of a gas oven.

Even John's, a New York landmark that has declined in quality and sits just down the street from BSP, would take these hacks in a pie battle. Not to mention Joe's and No. 28. And if you want an All-City team, let me open up the game to players like Di Fara, Patsy's of East Harlem, Una Pizza Napoletana, and Totonno's. Let's get serious here, somebody is paying somebody to say something on national television, and it just isn't true. All you turistas planning on coming to this fair city of ours for a fun-time vacay, cash in your pie bucks at a joint that deserves it. Bleecker Street and Food Network: you've been dismissed!

Pizza Box: A Top 5 Slice

OK, who is sleeping right now? Who is taking a nap on a real pie joint right in the middle of Greenwich Village? The DJ was, and I have a feeling I'm not the only one. Who knew the unassuming Pizza Box is completely on point? I rolled through on a Saturday afternoon and had an amazing plain slice that left very little to complain about. Joe's may have a thinner crust with a slightly purer sauce, but I have no qualms recommending Pizza Box as an out-and-out winner—one of Manhattan's top five slice joints. I can't wait to hit it up again—I know I've been hot on places only to be disappointed on the second jaunt (Vinci's), but I have a feeling I won't be let down by the ol' PB (open since 1957, believe that!). You won't, either! 176 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10012 (Greenwich Village; map); 212-979-0823. Slice intel »

Ben's Pizzeria of SoHo: No Balance

Ben's Pizzeria of SoHo does not serve up an average NYC slice. It offers a heavier crust that, although not tough to bite into, is a bit overwhelming in volume. And it needs to be, considering the unnecessary load of cheese piled on. I'll never say I have a problem with the quality of Ben's ingredients, but the quantity is another issue. Balance has to be taken seriously. Aristotle would have told you that. (And his Greek brethren over at Nick's would say the same!) 69 Seventh Avenue South, New York NY 10014 (Greenwich Village; map); 212-924-4466; bleeckerstreetpizza.com. Slice intel »

Joe's: Always Hot, Always Fresh

Joe's Pizza (by Slice)

At the end of the weekend though, I ended up crashing Joe's on Saturday night after catching up with some old friends. Joe's was alive and kicking, pumping out pies like it was lunchtime, and I immediately asked for the remains of its slice pie—I'm not a one or two slice guy at 4 a.m.; I had them pack five bad boys up in a box. You know the DJ doesn't F around! By the time I finish paying, there's another slice pie on display, and the folks waiting behind me weren't as upset as they were when I bought their post-bar snack out from under them! Joe's doesn't heat up well the next day in the microwave, but when you're getting it fresh out of the oven (and since turnover is so high, that's almost always the case), it's tough to beat for a plain slice in Manhattan. 7 Carmine Street, New York NY 10014 (Greenwich Village; map); 212-255-3946; joespizza.com. Slice intel »

Buona Pizza: An Unworthy Successor

Not In this town, there's enough good pie to go around and, as a pie-crazy public, we all have the chance to let our voice be heard with the slices we buy to keep us stuffed and satisfied. I don't want to end things with a diss, but I'm not going to mince words when it comes to things near and dear to me. I really wanted DeMarco's on Houston to do well. With all that happened at the joint, I was pulling for them more than any pie house in the city.

The owners were the son and daughter of the king of kings, Dom DeMarco of Di Fara fame, and they put out a good product—especially the Sicilian slice. Ultimately, though, it didn't work, and it shut down ops in October 2007. In its place, another pie house, Buona Pizza, has since moved in, and these jokers have no idea what they're doing. For one, they have those bootleg beef patties on the menu. More pointedly, I have no problems calling Buona Pizza not only not Buona, but among the worst slices in the city. I'll spare you the details, but let's just say I only needed three bites of its plain slice before I knew where I was at—Amateur Hour! It was a shame DeMarco's closed, and it's even more so now, considering its replacement.

Here's to hoping the DeMarco family comes back strong to Manhattan (although we could do without the $4 slice price that Dom is charging out on Avenue J). 146 West Houston, New York NY 10012 (Greenwich Village; map). Slice intel »

Until next time,
Bubbles out!

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14 Comments:

Another out-of-the-park home run by Slices #1 review guy! I cannot wait to read what he is up to - and he never dissapoints! I like a guy who will tell you flat out how the cow eats the cabbage...
Vegas

Yeah. Bubbles is awesome. I don't hear from him for a few weeks, then he drops in with the Drive By, spittin' some seriously dope bullets.

Dude, I'm ready to blow just reading about your recent travels and could never hang with you! Did someone roll you home after all of this was done? It's a tough job, but somebody's got to do it, and I'm glad it's you DJB. I do have to disagree with your take on Ben's in SoHo. It is a good change of pace for me, as I like a heavier crust now and then (and I love the knots there too)!

Thanks for the tip on the Pizza Box, it is now at the top of my "must-see DJB" joints. Protect & Serve Bubbles!

Bubbles, you really hit the nail on the head with your analysis of pizza in these neighborhoods. I am totally with you on the Pizza Box, and you will not have to worry about subsequent visits, because it never fails to come correct. Also, I am also in agreement with you on the likes of Ben's. It is crap in my eyes and not even worth the stomach space, when there are places like Joe's and Pizza Box within only a couple of blocks. Cheers and thanks for putting your heart in harms way for the all of your fans.

I love the Pizza Box. Their slices are terrific. Good call.

Went to Pizza Box for lunch today since I saw this article. Thanks for the heads up on a good slice!

Bubbles-

No disrespect but I'm confused by the aim of this article. What are you judging all of these places on? Is it their pie or their plain slice?

You don't go to Bleecker Street Pizza for the plain slice, you go, like you said, for the Nonna or in my case the Nonna and the Grandma.

I'd go to BSP over Joe's every night of the week. Joe's sauce is weak and there's a good chance you'll get an undersized slice for $2.50, which is BS. I'll take my chances at BSP where they appreciate the patronage and dole out pies with better ingredients and slices that are tastier and better value.

If you're stubmling drunk, go to Joe's, at least you have a chance of forgetting you were ripped off.

As far as Pizza Box goes, I'm going to have to check it out and see if all the praise you dumped on it is worth the talk.

And yes, I also prayed for DeMarco's success but after the shooting next door, I'm not surprised it folded. Plus the location is weak. I looked into Buona the other night and it looked awful. I didn't even try it and I was starving.

Unless I say otherwise, I judge joints by their plain slice. My aim is to guide the curious and clueless (pay attention) through the seemingly endless pizza options in New York and avoid the mistakes that I've made.

NYC Food Dude, I checked out your NY Pizza Tour alright - endorsing Bella Napoli and Dean's in the same blog is gross negligence - did you actually eat at these places or just judge them on the picture you took? I sense the force is weak in you. You actually think Bleecker Street is the best pie in West Village? Although, considering that you give props to John's, your tastes might just be out of sorts. We got a term for that where I come from - you're having a WACK ATTACK. Like my man Fred Levine says, you don't know delicious....

Class is dismissed

DJ Bubbles-

By Fred Levine, do you mean Ed Levine of Serious Eats fame?

Your defense is unnecessary man, opinion is opinion, I respect yours but I have to give mine. You never stated you judge against the plain slice so I wanted to find out. No need to get snappy or offensive. We're all here for the same reason correct? Guiding people to good food and steering them away from bad.

BSP is not bad pizza. For a slice joint, it's a better pie than Joe's, I hold to that. You can't compare it to John's or Pizza 28, those are pizza restaurants. That's like comparing BSP & Joe's to Una Pizza. Not in the same league. I differentiate between slice joints and pizza restaurants in my NY Pizza Tour. I don't think Bella Napoli is amazing or the best, but for a slice joint in Midtown, it's pretty much tops and as Ed Levine says on Ed Levine Eats, "Dean's is damn good". I'm on an equal opportunity NY Pizza Tour, there's no discriminating.

According to DJ Bubbles what are the top 3 pies and top 3 slices in Manhattan?

I reopen the floor... class continues....

I like it, NYCFG, I have to say that I like it, you're coming right back at me, just as you should! You do seem to be on an equal opportunity NY Pie tour, just as I am, I will give every place a try once or twice. I know places like Bella Napoli and Dean's off the top of my head and can converse on pie in different neighborhoods because I take the time to try them out, just as you do.

Our approaches are similar, but are conclusions are not. That's fine, though. It is important to distinguish between piehouses and slice joints, but it is also necessary to call foul on the Food Network when they proclaim BSP the city's best (slices or otherwise). That shet just doesn't fly and somebody needed to call them on it.

As far as my top 3 pies and top 3 slices in Manhattan - you'll get them in the next article, I haven't ranked in a minute and have to think on it for a bit.

this DJ Bubbles Guy kicks ass and gets it right everytime due to serious research and personal sacrifice. Thank goodness he is walking to each location as he would have some significant health issues without logging the miles ! lets make sure that DJ Doggles gets a slice now and then as he is a dead ringer for the recent Beagle winner of the Westminster show. An interesting comment by "juan meatball" and look for this to become the name of a new hit restaurant in Manhattan

DJ Bubbles-

Damn right me. We're New Yorkers talking about food. Well, we're New Yorkers, so it could be talking about anything. That means we're opionated and we want it known where we stand. We couldn't have it any other way. I respect you calling foul on Food Network. I like BSP a lot, it's one my top slices, it's definitely not the best pizza in New York. I'll be looking out for your top 3 pies and slices and maybe try to come up with my own. I'll also be posting a Staten Island Pizza tour on NYCFoodGuy.com in the next few weeks. They can do pizza out there too. Keep it real.

wow. Pizza Box!??! I haven't been there in over 20 years when I had the whackest bad (as in terrible, not good, yech) slice. I'm going to try it again in this Naughties Decade and see if either they've gotten better or my taste has...

I took a Village walk-thru yesterday eve(5-6:30pm) and picked up a few slices... I hadn't had pizza or pasta in over a week, so I was gastro-primed for whatever was in store. It was essentially a, "GIVE ME RED SAUCE, OR GIVE ME DEATH..." kind of moment. I was hungry.

My intentions were to go with standard slices; limiting myself to one per joint. But what man's fortitude is strong enough to deny first-cut of a hot virgin pie capped with fresh mozz? Don't strain the grey matter--it's a whole different ball game when she's looking you in the face. Being speechless, I pointed, and $3.25 later, I was out on the sidewalk in front of Joe's. After one good bite, I ventured across to that fine triangular park to bench with my newly found piece of pie'ss.

First stop: Joe's, $3.25. Uber fresh and hot, excellent hand-feel & fold('libretto') great crunch to the crust, good depth with a nice chewy texture. Cheese tasted great, nice and tender, no gummy residue. Sauce tasted ok, a bit bland(akin to canned paste) and overall, was missing something... I do prefer some fresh basil on a this genre of pie. Verdict: A solid slice; better than average.

Second stop: Pizza Box, $3.50(I think). Needed a quick reheat, but did seem freshly made. "Bleeker, we have a problem with the crust!" I would love to maintain a direct writing style here, but we need to be frank about the failure of my crust last night... (Ask your doctor about C.D...) I tried to hold the fold; I really wanted it. I even offered her rest in between attempts... Nothing but soggy limpness. I was let down. I marched slowly to the fork tray, and returned to my seat, keeping my gaze directed away from the ovens... The last three inches of slice entirely collapsed, causing a cheese + sauce avalanche of sorts. I wish I could post the pic. here... Alas, armed with my fork, I ate on.

Moving along: cheese was okay, a bit tough, leaving a slight gummy afterchew, but not too polly-o (it did need to be deliverd via utensil, so it's consistency may have been concentrated, per lack of crust.) The sauce was very good and really satisfied my crave of things red. I'd say a bit more oily that watery, and left an oily residue on the paper plate, yet I really was enjoying the balance of salt to sweet, with the constant kick of the fresh basil. Verdict: An unacceptable slice; disqualified by the crust SNAFU. The sauce scored enough yum points to bring me back for a chance at redemption.

Third stop: Bleeker Street Pizza, $2.75. Fresh, but with a reheat. Can a crust be too cruchy? Yes. I don't know what they cook the pie on, but it comes out with a fabricated texture--a fine grid pattern. When attempting to fold, it literally cracks along its fault lines. The end result is an awkward hand feel, with jagged sharp approaches to the bites. The chew is a masticatory assault--sharp, crispy, yet finishing loose..."Where the hell is my gluten?" Risoterria may have been smiling, but I was not. The finish reminded me of what happens intra-mouth after chewing down a cheap graham cracker, or Capt'n Cruch--a reduction to homogeneity. Whatever it was, it seems like they were unnaturally forcing the crunch quality, therefore compromising the ideal crusts which crunch only to reveal a softer, more breadlike center. The cheese was nice--well-located, good taste and texture, without gummy residue. Sauce was very good, and the basil taste was excellent. Verdict: Pizza is bread, not cheese and crackers--the crew needs to go re-read the chapter on leavening dough. But, for that dime, I'll be going back to check for improvements...

So, with that, each slice had it's merits. And it was clear that all the shops were serious about their pies. I'd like to have a $3.00 max per slice price, and all to receive the basil treatment. I suppose if the crust issues are a chronic problem, I could slap a Pizza Box slice over a Bleeker slice, and see what happens with the hybrid... Next week I'm walking with a friend to see what those coal ovens can do...

Animals feed. Humans eat. Foodies dine.

Pick one.


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