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Dear Slice: Di Fara Cheese Combo Clarification; Lucali May Expand, Adding Garden Seating

Dear Slice, Letters From Our Readers

I took a visit out there last week and spent a considerable amount of time talking to Domenico DeMarco, 71. I was there to investigate the price spike but ended up learning a lot about the 150 or so pizzas he makes a day, such as cooking the pies at 750°F for five minutes; the use of Israeli basil and Italian flour.

But there is one thing I'd like to clear up. DeMarco uses four types of cheeses—not three. There are three types of mozzarella and of course the signature Parmigiano-reggiano he hits every pie with just before serving them.

Anyway, I noticed repeated media accounts of just three cheeses, and I wanted to set the record straight. And one other thing, DeMarco says a slice cost 20¢ when he opened in 1964. A pie cost a buck. Those were the times.
—Adam G.


Dear Adam,
Thanks for clearing that up—though I think I understand where the confusion comes from. I've seen Dom sometimes put on a combo of standard mozzarella (from Grandé), fior di latte (also Grandé brand), and buffalo mozzarella imported from Italy. But at times I swear I've seen him omit the buffalo mozzarella—I'm guessing when he runs out.

Also: Many accounts have Dom putting grana padano on his pies. Did he specifically mention Parmigiano-reggiano?

Hasta la pizza,
Adam K.

He did say Parm-reggiano. I can confirm this tidbit. Oh, by the way, I was at Lucali a month or so ago, and they said they're gonna expand. They want to open the back yard for summer and put some tables out there.
—Adam G.

No kidding! Parmigiano-reggiano, eh? Well, whatever it is, it's delicious as always. And thanks for the tip on Lucali! It would be nice to see that place open up some more tables so it's easier to get in there.
—Adam K.

Related

Di Fara on Slice »
Lucali's on Slice »

8 Comments:

Illness over the past few months has prevented me from eating the things I'd really like - but one of the top five on my list to hit is pizza. DiFara's is defintely the first and I plan to take my niece and her kids with me - especially since it's Brooklyn and we want to take her kids on a tour.
The cost of pizza in 1964 took me back - I remember paying 15 cents a slice - don't remember what pies cost. And I remember when it went up to 20 cents, me and my buds would haul all the way up to the Lincoln Park area where there was a shop that still charged 15. The pies were cheap enough that a friend and I in Junior HIgh would trek to a shop in Canarsie, buy a pie apiece, and polish them off.
Somehow nothing I've ever eaten since has tasted as good....

I'm curious to know how Dom gets a heat of 750 degrees from a gas fired oven

Being of Italian descent and raised in the pizza business I believe I know why their are differing reports coming out of DiFara's regarding what Dom puts on his pizzas. Growing up my grandfather would tell people different answers when he was asked what he put in his dough or his sauce. He considered his recipes family secrets and for some reason told lies rather than say "I don't want to tell you". He would get a kick out of telling these exaggerated elaborate recipes to people but my grandmother would always say "it's such a waste of food, he shouldn't lie". My grandmother was a larger woman by the way. God rest her soul. I think DiFara is doing a little bit of this. I mean the man doesn't allow anyone else to make his pies but he's going to tell everyone exactly what goes into his world class pies. I'm sorry but ish don't think so. I could be wrong. But, i think he has a little fun with people when they ask him what he puts in/on his pies as he prolly hears this question several times a day.
Italian Americans consider food recipes top secret stuff and i just don't think Dom ever tells the 100% truth to anyone. I've read a few different blogs of people supposedly talking to Dom about pizza and his answer to the oft asked question always seems to be different. No offense to any of the reporting done in this article nor to Dom DiFara or the writer of this article. I just think he's havin a lil' fun.

DIFARA'S....WHAT A JOKE...I DON'T EVEN CARE HOW GOOD THE PIZZA IS WE STOOD AT THE COUNTER FOR 30 MIN...AT THE COUNTER...& NO ONE EVEN ACKOWLEGED US...THE OLD MAN SHOULD HIRE SOMEONE TO PREP FOR HIM...HE'S AS SLOW AS MOLASSES IN THE WINTER...PIZZA & ITALIAN FOOD...FORGET IT...GETTING A SLICE IS IMPOSSIBLE LET ALONE ANYTHING ELSE...
MORE PEOPLE LEFT THEN WERE SERVED...IF YOU HAVE AN ENTIRE DAY TO WASTE GETTING PIZZA THEN YOU SHOULD GIVE IT A TRY...HIRE SOME DAMN HELP!!!!!!

GRIMALDI'S IS AWESOME!!!!!

APizzaJunkie: I think your caps-lock key is STUCK. Please investigate and fix before commenting further on Slice. Thank you.

@adam: LOL. or should I say lol.

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