Michael Bauer, food critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, continues his Pizza Friday series on his blog Between Meals with a trip to Pizzeria Delfina in San Francisco. Delfina makes a thin-crust Neapolitan-style pie, "with a nod to New York," Bauer says.
Crust: Masterful. Stoll has been able to create a dough that when baked is both slightly chewy and crisp. It's thin at the center with a golden brown, puffy edge with a few welcome darker bubbles. Toppings are judiciously applied so that the yeasty character of the crust emerges.
Pizza tried: My all-time favorite is the Salsiccia, with a slather of tomatoes, mozzarella, bell peppers, onions and excellent house-made fennel sausage. The Margherita is a deceptively simple blend with fior di latte mozzarella and basil; diners can also upgrade to Bubalis Mozzarella di Bufala for a couple bucks more.