Second Time at UPN Is No Charm for Village Voice's Sietsema

Posted by Adam Kuban, May 14, 2008 at 3:45 PM

Robert Sietsema of the Village Voice revisits Una Pizza Napoletana and, as per his first word on the place, doesn't quite like it:

The pies arrive literally smoking, with charred dough on one side or the other. I ate the standard Margherita, which shocked me with its $21 price tag, Sicilian sea salt or not. It was good, but a little too substantially charred for my taste, and the “bone” (the thickest part of the crust) was a little too doughy. Still, as an example of the Naples style, it was about 95% there.
The other pizza I tried, the bianca, was a white pie (well, duh!) with a heavy dose of buffalo mozzarella on top. To begin with, Naples pizzerias almost never use buffalo mozzarella, preferring the fiore di latte that is the equivalent of our Italian-American mozzarella. While I don’t usually argue with dairy generosity, this pie had too much cheese, lending a rubbery quality to the pie. In Naples, when they apply cheese, it is in small chunks....

2 Comments

Tags: East Village, Manhattan, Naples–style, NYC, reviews, Robert Sietsema, Una Pizza Napoletana, Village Voice, Wood-Oven

2 Comments:

The line about fliore di latte isn't exactly accurate. There is plenty of buffalo mozz used in Italy, it's even in the VPN standards.

Adam can vouch for me in the fact that i'm certainly not a Anthony Mangieri supporter, but I think Mr. Sietsema is a little needlessly snarky towards UPN.

Prairie at 4:49PM on 05/14/08

Prairie is not a Mangieri supporter. I do indeed vouch for this.

Adam Kuban at 5:45PM on 05/14/08

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