Pizza Margherita will now be recognized as a "regional specialty" in Naples by the European Union under its official name, the Pizza Napoletana. This means anyone claiming to sell a Pizza Napoletana must now adhere to the rules of what constitutes a Pizza Napoletana, as conceived by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (the True Neapolitan Pizza Association):
The diameter must be no more than 35 cm (14 inches) in diameter and no thicker than 1/3 of a centimeter at its center
The tomato base must be made from the San Marzano variety of tomatoes
The olive oil used must be extra virgin
The cheese topping is buffalo mozzarella
All ingredients must be from the Campania region
The oven must be wood-fired, and the pizza must cook in less than two minutes
Legend has it that the Margherita was created in 1889 at Pizzeria Brandi, in honor of the queen of Italy, Margherita of Savoy. Since its inception, it's gone through a myriad of changes and creative twists by pizzerias all around the world, like a tomato-less bianca version. However, the Associazione has threatened to sue restaurants in Europe if they advertise the Pizza Napoletana but aren't complying to the rules: "We are protecting one of the most ancient and most important gastronomic traditions," VPN director Antonio Pace said. "We don't want the others not to make pizza, but we want them to make it as we make it—as it should be done."
I get the idea of appellation control for products for assurance of quality. I get the idea of preserving culinary history. But I think what makes me laugh a little at the quote is the 'ancient' part of that statement. Perhaps there is something lost in translation, but the word ancient seems a bit hyperbolic.
I mean if we've got to use the tomato, a new world fruit, how ancient can it be? Or even more on that point, how ancient can a tomato variety that has developed a regional character be? Or even how ancient is Pizza Margherita, which I heard rumor was born of a Queen visit during the second half of the 19th century?
Anyway, go them! I love eating at 2 Amy's here in DC with its official Italian designation. God save the slice! And the men (or women) bound to protect it!
I can appreciate preserving culinary history. Sadly I cannot afford a wood fired oven or buffalo mozzarella. Where I make pizza we work well with our gas ovens and cornmeal.
American's should realize what is going on here, and that this is not something to celebrate as being in the best interest of pizza or pizza lovers. The Associazione is nothing but a trade group of medoiocre pizza makers trying to restrict competition and protect their turf from superior competitors through bureacratic regulations administered from Brussels. It is an outrage that a tourist trap like Brandi (you will hear more German and Japanese spoken there than Italian) should be in a position to tell true artisans such as Da Michaele (which does not comply with the new Rules but serves a vastly better product) and others what they can call their pizza. In fact, its really an outrage that Italy has reached the low point of abdicating its sovereignty to Europe in allowing bureacrats in Brussels to dictate how pizza -- or anything -- can be made in Naples.
Makanmata: Funny...there is a very mediocre pizzeria in Ridgewood NJ that likes to claim that it is an authentic Pizza Napoletano. One of the pizzerias followers even linked to this thread. Your comment helps to explain why after trying the pizza that it is very mediocre. They are basing their critieria on an association filled with other mediocre pizza makers.
Its not like people really know what a "true" Neapolitan pie tastes like. I bet 90% of people haven't even been to Napoli so there is no benchmark. It doesn't really matter if it's authentic or not just as long as it comes out perfect. Again perfection is in the eye of the beholder.
Maybe you think VPN pizza is mediocre but I put my VPN certified up against the "best". On a bad day mine is better than most. ......and there is nothing wrong with holding to tradition even if it is only a few hundred years old. We americans ought to take this idea to heart as we can't even seem to hold the "tradition" of any thing for two hundred years without changing it. Look at our constitution as a prime example.
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8 Comments:
I get the idea of appellation control for products for assurance of quality. I get the idea of preserving culinary history. But I think what makes me laugh a little at the quote is the 'ancient' part of that statement. Perhaps there is something lost in translation, but the word ancient seems a bit hyperbolic.
I mean if we've got to use the tomato, a new world fruit, how ancient can it be? Or even more on that point, how ancient can a tomato variety that has developed a regional character be? Or even how ancient is Pizza Margherita, which I heard rumor was born of a Queen visit during the second half of the 19th century?
Anyway, go them! I love eating at 2 Amy's here in DC with its official Italian designation. God save the slice! And the men (or women) bound to protect it!
Husband at 7:20PM on 06/11/08
Wait...does this mean it can still be described as "Margherita" if it doesn't comply with the standards? That wouldn't be calling it "Napoletana".
I can see a lot of pizza places just adding "-style" to the name.
wunami at 11:17PM on 06/11/08
I can appreciate preserving culinary history. Sadly I cannot afford a wood fired oven or buffalo mozzarella. Where I make pizza we work well with our gas ovens and cornmeal.
tonecapo at 1:23AM on 06/12/08
American's should realize what is going on here, and that this is not something to celebrate as being in the best interest of pizza or pizza lovers. The Associazione is nothing but a trade group of medoiocre pizza makers trying to restrict competition and protect their turf from superior competitors through bureacratic regulations administered from Brussels. It is an outrage that a tourist trap like Brandi (you will hear more German and Japanese spoken there than Italian) should be in a position to tell true artisans such as Da Michaele (which does not comply with the new Rules but serves a vastly better product) and others what they can call their pizza. In fact, its really an outrage that Italy has reached the low point of abdicating its sovereignty to Europe in allowing bureacrats in Brussels to dictate how pizza -- or anything -- can be made in Naples.
Makanmata at 11:22AM on 06/12/08
Makanmata: Funny...there is a very mediocre pizzeria in Ridgewood NJ that likes to claim that it is an authentic Pizza Napoletano. One of the pizzerias followers even linked to this thread. Your comment helps to explain why after trying the pizza that it is very mediocre. They are basing their critieria on an association filled with other mediocre pizza makers.
Bosmer at 1:29PM on 06/12/08
Its not like people really know what a "true" Neapolitan pie tastes like. I bet 90% of people haven't even been to Napoli so there is no benchmark. It doesn't really matter if it's authentic or not just as long as it comes out perfect. Again perfection is in the eye of the beholder.
Q80 BurgerBelly at 3:58AM on 06/13/08
Maybe you think VPN pizza is mediocre but I put my VPN certified up against the "best". On a bad day mine is better than most. ......and there is nothing wrong with holding to tradition even if it is only a few hundred years old. We americans ought to take this idea to heart as we can't even seem to hold the "tradition" of any thing for two hundred years without changing it. Look at our constitution as a prime example.
Bobby Martino at 2:25PM on 07/30/08
Hey Bobby, maybe they should say "San Marzano tomatoes, originally from North America".
raoulduke at 7:38PM on 07/30/08