Uno's, Chicago's Original Deep-Dish Pizza
Editor's note: I'm pleased to introduce you all to Daniel Zemans, our man in Chicago. Daniel and his friends have been blogging about pizza in the Windy City on the Chicago Pizza Club blog. He'll be dropping by here on Slice with the deets on the eats in this pie-mad city. —The Mgmt.
Greetings from the Pizza Capital of the World!


Stuff Chicago's Known For: The 1893 World's Fair, Al Capone, Michael Jordan, Barack Obama, deep-dish pizza.
This is the first in what will be a weekly series on pizza in Chicago. For those unfamiliar with Chicago—and having spent three years in New York myself, I know many of you are—allow me to give a brief introduction full of references to your fine town.
Chicago is in Illinois, one of the many states in this country that does not sit next to an ocean (and is therefore a great mystery to many in New York, where I'd imagine most of Slice's readership lives). Over time, Chicago has been famous for a few different reasons. In 1893, the city made its first splash on the international scene when it was chosen over New York and a few other cities to host what would be the wildly successful World's Columbian Exposition.
To most of the world, the Chicago World's Fair, as the event is commonly known, symbolized Chicago—until Brooklyn-born Alphonse Capone attained a level of power that no gangster ever had. Capone remained Chicago's enduring image until Brooklyn-born Michael Jeffrey Jordan mastered basketball and sports-marketing in a way that nobody ever had. While Jordan remains Chicago's most widely known icon, he is soon to be displaced by New York–educated Barack Obama (Columbia '83).
Just as Capone did with gangland violence, Jordan did with basketball, and Obama is doing with politics, Chicagoans have taken pizza and elevated it to a level previously unimaginable. Scale the pinnacle of pizzadom, after the jump.
Chicago pizza is an altogether different beast than New York–style. As this series progresses, I will explore all three varieties of Chicago pies: deep dish, stuffed, and "bar pizza," our version of thin crust. One common difference is that Chicago pizza, even in its thin incarnation, has more cheese, more toppings, and more sauce than New York pizza. Additionally, Chicago pizza is typically sold by the entire pie and is a much more group-oriented food than its New York counterpart. In fact, almost none of the best pizzerias in Chicago even offer pizza by the slice. When possible, I will offer references to New York pizza, but as you can imagine, there will not be many opportunities to do so.

I am starting this series with Pizzeria Uno, not because I think it is the best Chicago has to offer, but because it is the one the rest of the world most associates with my hometown.
Uno's, as it's commonly known, has been serving deep-dish pizzas since the style was invented there in 1943. While the company is now based in Boston, has expanded to more than 200 locations from Chicago to California to Saudi Arabia, and is inexplicably getting close to unveiling a low-calorie, gluten-free deep-dish pizza, the original pie is still served at the same spot it was developed at in downtown Chicago more than 60 years ago. (I have been told that the version of pizza sold at Uno's outside of Chicago is significantly different than the original, but I have never tried it, so I have no idea.)
I don't know any Chicagoans who eat at the original Uno's other than when taking guests from out of town. In fact, while there are more than 200 locations around the world, only three of them are in Chicago's city limits—the original, the one at O'Hare Airport, and Pizzeria Due, the second Uno's, which opened in 1955 a block away from the original in response to the pizzeria's rising popularity.
Anyhow, because of Uno's fame and location, it is generally flooded with tourists and it's common for people to wait more than an hour or two to be seated. To speed the process along, they ask you to place your pizza order when you put your name down. That policy ensures that diners do not have to wait as long to eat once they sit down (deep-dish pizzas take more than 45 minutes to cook). There is a bar, but it only has a few seats. So your best bet is to either go at an off-peak time or else put your name down and leave for a while.
For those of you who have never seen a deep-dish pizza, it may seem odd. The crust is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. At Uno's, the crust, which contains some corn meal, a noticeable amount of butter, and garlic, is made fresh every day and has the texture of a slightly heavy piece of toast. The next layer is not sauce but rather cheese—lots of cheese—another 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. The toppings are placed on top of the cheese. As is the case with the crust and the cheese, there is a much greater amount of toppings on a deep-dish pizza than a New York slice.
Of particular note is the sausage, which comes in a patty the size of the pie (or, in my case, the half of the pie with sausage; the other half was covered in pepperoni). While a little on the salty side for my taste, the sausage is definitely better than average. The top layer on an Uno's deep-dish pizza is the sauce, which is much chunkier than is typical in New York.

In addition to the meat-covered pie, I tried an individual size of the Spinoccoli (above), which has spinach and broccoli as well as some cheddar, feta, and romano cheese mixed in with the mozzarella. I had never had this pizza before, and I was pleasantly surprised. There seemed to be substantially more spinach than broccoli on it, but that was fine with me. The combination of cheeses worked well together. The spinach added a fair amount of moisture to the pizza, but when the crust is as thick and sturdy as Uno's is, that doesn't cause a problem.
When Ike Sewell first offered deep-dish pizza at Uno's, he probably had no idea that he was permanently elevating the bar for pizza around the world. For that reason alone, Uno's is worth a visit by every self-respecting pizza connoisseur. The fact that you can still get an excellent pie in the original location is an added bonus. Just be prepared to wait a while to eat.
Pizzeria Uno
29 East Ohio, Chicago IL 60611 (map)
312-321-1000
unos.com
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39 Comments:
Sorry. As delicious as that is, it's not pizza. It's tomato and cheese (and sometimes meat and other stuff) pie.
simon at 11:18AM on 06/05/08
Pizza Capital of the world?
I like a good Chi-town pie.. but sorry.. it's us in NYC.
Rome ain't bad either.
dbdtron
dbdtron at 11:29AM on 06/05/08
I'm from Texas but even my idea of pizza is a lovely crispy thin pizza. The first time I had a Chicago-style pizza I didn't even know where to start eating it. Where was the lovely flaky crust? When my husband went to Chicago I told him to try one, but throw all thoughts of what we consider "pizza" out his head.
I lived in a small village outside of Rome and have never had a slice of mushroom pizza like it - it was greatness.
JenM Dallas at 11:41AM on 06/05/08
i have to admit, i love my chicago 'casserole' as much as the next native midwesterner. it isn't pizza as we know it in ny and it is certainly its own entity, but it is damn good if you're in the mood for it. i was so surprised to find pizzeria uno was known as another mediocre chain restaurant when i moved out the east coast. the original pizzeria uno doesn't have all that applebee's-bootleg garbage on the menu and i agree that they do make a decent chi-pie, but they are certainly no lou malnati's nor pizano's. hey, i heard a dirty rumor that pizano's was now closed. chi guys is this true? oh, and welcome to the team! djb
DJ Bubbles at 12:14PM on 06/05/08
Lou Malnati's is THE place for a good Chicago pizza. Having grown up the the Chicagoland area let me also add that the windy city is known for a lot more than Capone and Jordan. Describing Chicago by discussing it's mobster days of almost a century ago is like saying that NY is best known for Ellis Island. Get a good guide and visit Millenium Park, the Sears Tower, the museums. It's a wonderful, city full of modern fun.
mascan at 12:28PM on 06/05/08
it was a mind-blowing day when i realized that the lou malnati's pizza that i so very much adored was indeed a casserole, as djb says.
never liked uno's that much- was shocked to find that this restuarant i'd never heard of was the standard bearer of chicago-style pizza once you got out of NE illinois.
when i encountered a sicillian-style pie in brooklyn, i wondered if it was an ancestor of the chicago-style pizza, but really, it probably is the casserole influence which made it all happen.
sloppydelicious at 12:38PM on 06/05/08
I must say i don't buy the "it's not a pizza" argument on deep dish, one which has nearly destroyed my relationship with my partner, a die-hard ny chauvinist. Besides, that argument distracts from the fact that Chicago-style thin crust pizza that is really delicious, and totally overlooked. just saying.
I moved to NY from Chicago 7 years ago, and I do share a deep love for NY Pizza, but Chicago Pizza (deep and thin) calls to me from the windy city on a nearly weekly basis.
Daniel - Uno outside of Chicago is nasty. In the first year I lived here I was homesick for some deep-dish and went to one of the Uno chain restaurants. It was truly a terrible experience.
I have to say my favorite Chicago deep dish is probably Pequot's in Lincoln Park and I'm partial to Barnaby's for thin crust.
branny at 12:41PM on 06/05/08
@simon: I expected to get at least one comment like this and it's a chorus I've head before. What, in your mind, is the definition of pizza? From your comment, it seems that your real issue is with the crust since tomato and cheese and sometimes toppings is what goes on most pizzas. Does a crust have to be thin to be pizza in your mind? Does it have to be cooked a certain way?
@DJ: Thanks for the welcome. I agree that Malnati's is the best and I will review it in a few weeks. Pizano's, which was started by relatives of the original Malnati, is also outstanding. Fear not, Pizano's is still open. The Wrigleyville location did close, but the others are still open and, from what I can tell, doing fine.
@mascan: While I appreciate the input of a former resident of the suburbs regarding my hometown and I agree that Chicago is a wonderful town, please note that I did not say Al Capone is what Chicago is known for, I said he was Chicago's most enduring image to most of the world. Was, as in past tense. I suppose one could make a case that he was surpassed in that regard before Jordan came along, but from my experience of meeting people from outside Chicago, particularly those from outside the U.S., Capone was Chicago's most known entity.
@branny: Agreed 100% on the "it's not a pizza" argument and your point that Chicago has a unique thin-crust style is very true and will be explored in coming installments. Pequod's and Barnaby's are both great places.
Daniel Zemans at 12:48PM on 06/05/08
Pizza is by definition a flat bread, made from yeast risen dough containing no shortening (at most some olive oil,) cooked directly on a hot oven surface, topped lightly with san marzano tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and a drizzle of olive oil. Anything else is not pizza. "Deep dish pizza" is more akin to quiche than it is to pizza.
simon at 12:53PM on 06/05/08
I'm with you on the first 2 people, but Obama? I would have guess Oprah, Ditka, Da' Bears, etc...
suburbangourmet at 1:31PM on 06/05/08
What Simon said. If you have to use a knife and fork to eat it, it ain't pizza!
grampart at 1:33PM on 06/05/08
King Hater strikes again, using questionable and self-defined terms to frame his arguments. simon, if the definition of 'pizza' only includes pies topped lightly with san marzano tomatoes, then there are, maybe, 20-25 restaurants in new york serving 'pizza'. when you walk into your neighborhood slice shop, you most certainly are not getting 'pizza' as you define it. simon, are you sure you really want to define it that narrowly? a very small percentage of new york pizzerias are using all san marzanos - you should know that. you're one step ahead of yourself, chief. no surprises there, though.
Dan, I affectionately refer to chi-pie as 'casserole' because that's what it reminds me of...i do agree that it is pizza, but it is a completely different animal than ny pie - no room for argument there. even the thin, bar pie served up in the chi is a separate breed than our stuff....i would say it is a different approach to making pizza more than anything, ya dig?
DJ Bubbles at 1:37PM on 06/05/08
I make my own pizza, dipshit.
simon at 1:43PM on 06/05/08
@Daniel Zemans: Of course we've chatted via email, but let me welcome you here in "public." I love reading about Chicago pizza, and I like how you've busted out of the gate here with the bold proclamation of "HELLO FROM THE PIZZA CAPITAL OF THE WORLD." I knew the Chicago stuff would bring out some dissent, but dems da breaks, and you've got the chops to handle it. I'm just surprised there wasn't more of it.
Can't wait to see what you do now that you've taken care of the elephant-in-the-room Uno's.
@branny: Agreed. I've had Due, which was tasty, but the stuff I've had at the chained-out Uno's Chicago Grill was bad. Had a horrible metallic aftertaste to it.
Adam Kuban at 1:48PM on 06/05/08
It would seem that the Neapolitan standard for pizza is the one that Simon outlines. The Neapolitan standard is great but do all pies have to conform to it in order to be called pizza? I think not.
holdthemayo at 1:51PM on 06/05/08
Dear Daniel,
Thank you so much for including 2 varieties besides thin - differentiating between "deep dish" and "stuffed" pizzas. Me? I'll eat either.
My pet peeve is when folks come to Chicago expecting their "deep dish" or their "stuffed" to be a "pan" pizza. To me, pan pizza is a very thick layer of dough with thin toppings. Bleck. Might as well just order breadsticks with marinana and dine on that.
Stuffed and Deep Dish are a whole other wonderful tasty affair compared to pan.
As for NY pizza, well, I'm sure it would be just fine.
It's a different beast completely.
So, I don't get into the rivalry.
I look forward to reading your other installments.
DanaMc at 1:56PM on 06/05/08
@holdthemayo: simon can't even get the neapolitan standard right - he's missing basil in his definition of pizza. the dude is a little mixed up. the fact that he makes his own pizza is completely irrelevant - a common theme in his posts, unfortunately.
DJ Bubbles at 1:57PM on 06/05/08
You such a squid. You make me laugh.
simon at 2:08PM on 06/05/08
you're a trouser trout, simon, but i still love ya!
DJ Bubbles at 2:26PM on 06/05/08
Ok, I know this is sooo trite, but I agree with the old saying about pizza being like sex. Even when it's not that good, it's still pretty good.
Not to say that Chicago pizza isn't good. I wouldn't know, because I've never been there, but damn! It's pizza, so who cares!
(P.S. I'm slightly more discriminating when it comes to sex.)
Kerosena at 3:02PM on 06/05/08
I've never been to Uno's in Chicago but it is indeed terrible anywhere else. I like Giordano's. As a visitor that's the only deep dish pie I've had. How does it stack up to some of the other's mentioned?
bobbob at 3:05PM on 06/05/08
@bobbob: Giordano's is a stuffed pizza, which is different from deep dish (less crust and more cheese being the primary distinctions). It is, in my opinion, very good, and it will be the subject of my next review.
Daniel Zemans at 3:08PM on 06/05/08
I liked Giordano's, too, the times I trekked south to Chicago. In Milwaukee, the Uno's pizza is awful - the crust literally tastes like hot Walker's shortbread (which, don't get me wrong, is a fine cookie, but not with sausage and cheese on it).
BangieB at 3:34PM on 06/05/08
Chicago is Pizza Capital of the World? Someone forgot to inform NYC of that fact...
Hey... get it right. Chicago "pizza" ain't pizza. It's a Casserole.
ronzoni at 3:44PM on 06/05/08
I was born and raised in NYC. I love my big foldable slices and my big crunchy "square" as well (corner piece, please).
I have eaten, and enjoyed, pizza in Chicago. Although the two dishes fall under the same term - "pizza" - these two animals are as different as night and day. Comparing them to one another is like comparing apples to giraffes.
I have been consuming pizza long enough to have a conscious memory of when a Neopolitan slice was 20 cents and a Sicilian slice was 25 cents. I wasn't tall enough to see over the counter of my favorite pizza place in Brooklyn, Da Vinci on 18th Avenue and 65th Street, when I was brought there by my mom. And God knows how much of the stuff I consumed when I was in diapers and had it cut and hand fed to me as a baby. As far as NY Pizza is concerned, Da Vinci is second to none.
As far as Chicago pizza, the "casserole-y" dish, I must be in the minority because I actually enjoyed Pizzeria Uno's slice. It's knife and fork pizza, a pretty foreign concept to me, a New Yorker. ((Shrugs)) I gave it a try. Hot, saucy and cheesy, it was delicious. Did it replace my beloved NY Pizza? Not a chance.
Chicago pizza simply gives me another excuse to enjoy someone else's interpretation of pizza. Italy has its own - and many variations at that.
I rarely use this expression because it's become a "non-answer" like "let's agree to disagree" but here goes: It's all good.
chiff0nade at 4:40PM on 06/05/08
Thank you for being a voice for Chicago! I was just about to give up on Seriouseats all together because it's so NY-centric. As for my view on the pizza issue, Uno's is good as long as you only get it at the original location on Ohio. Giordano's is good no matter where you get it. I personally like Gino's East. I love their buttery, yellow crust.
hmlicata at 9:16PM on 06/05/08
Daniel - welcome aboard and DJ Bubbles hit the nail on the head with his casserole comment. Chicago casserole is still delicious, just not in the same class as pizza napoletana margherita. A couple questions for you - having spent three years in NYC, what are your favorite gotham pizzerias and is anyone making a good pizza napoletana in Chicagoland or the entire midwest, for that matter ? Also, be on the lookout for a guy named Juan Meatball as he knows alot about Windy City pies
therealslimshady at 9:31PM on 06/05/08
when i go back to visit chicago, where i grew up, i would rather eat at pizzeria due than any other restaurant in the city. it's what i miss the most.
cybercita at 9:51PM on 06/05/08
@therealslimshady: Thanks for the welcome. I must confess that I was not nearly the pizza connoisseur when in NYC that I fancy myself to be nowadays. The result was that I didn't seek out enough good pizza. That said, Lombardi's and Arturo's were my favorites.
Neapolitan pizza has indeed made it's way to Chicago. The best known are Spacca Napoli, which recently became the first American member of Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani (APN), and Trattoria D.O.C. As for the rest of the Midwest, I'm no expert, but I will be visiting Punch Neapolitan Pizza when I'm in St. Paul, MN this weekend.
As for the casserole comment, I didn't get it when Ed Levine put it in his book and I haven't understood it when I've heard it repeated. Perhaps my experience with casserole is different from some of you, but a casserole is essentially a bowl of slop (periodically tasty, but still slop). I see nothing in the flavor or texture of deep dish or stuffed pizza that reminds me of a casserole.
Daniel Zemans at 10:58PM on 06/05/08
Daniel--I was wondering--as a child, heaven help me, I really liked the oily Pizza-Hut style pan pizza and when I went to Greece, one of the few things I liked there was a place that sold very sweet-sauced, oily crusted pan pizza--and obscene amounts of cheese.
Two questions:
Did the Chicago style influence the creation of Pizza Hut's pan pizza?
Did the 'Greek' version of pizza influence Chicago-style's evolution given the presence of the Greek community in Chicago--I noticed one of your examples had feta an lots of other kinds of cheese on it (I can practically hear my Greek-born father salivating at the sight of it).
HeartofGlass at 8:06AM on 06/06/08
casserole (kăs'ə-rōl') n.
1. A dish, usually of earthenware, glass, or cast iron, in which food is both baked and served.
2. Food prepared and served in such a dish.
grampart at 9:09AM on 06/06/08
I'd be less confused if it is called pie rather than pizza. I'm sure its a great pie, otherwise it wouldn't be that popular. I'm just bewildered as to why it would take 45 minutes to bake?
Q80 BurgerBelly at 10:43AM on 06/06/08
NYers are so predictable. Is it so unfathomable that the universe is big enough to contain more than one style of anything that NY already offers? Seriously, NY is probably the most provincial, insular city in the world.
Only NYers come and insist that their style of EVERYTHING is the one and only valid style. Hot dogs, pizza, whatever. Get over yourselves.
And you'll note that I haven't said one kind of pizza is "better" or "worse." Just accept that there is more than one kind. Beatles and Beethoven, folks.
Garvey at 11:15AM on 06/06/08
Beethoven didn't make rock music. Deep dish isn't pizza. Get over it.
simon at 12:26PM on 06/06/08
But they both made music. Which seems to be the point that you apparently failed to understand or at least inappropriately chose to ignore.
Nevertheless, you are the one that seems to be taking this much too seriously. Does it really matter that much to you that someone on the internet that you don't even actually know has a different opinion than you? And even if it does, being an ass about it is hardly going to convince anyone to join your side.
wunami at 12:59AM on 06/09/08
This will always be an argument based on the definition if the term, but I, for one, think pizza should be able to be lifted from the table with a human hand.
2nd City...2nd Pizza. Get over YOURSELVES.
JustinH at 2:30PM on 06/09/08
By the way, sharing knowledge and appreciation of the product at hand is what drives this blog. I don't think starting a pissing contest between cities was a wise approach to opening a new article. Write about the food, not Chicago, and receive less flack.
JustinH at 2:32PM on 06/09/08
Nobody said anything about ranking...except you. So typical.
Garvey at 10:32PM on 06/09/08
haha... this whole comment section for this article has been a pretty enjoyable read. The following is not directed at any specific person (unless noted)... Anyway, i am a born, raised, and currently living Chicagoan. That being said, I just love food. I love Chicago STYLE style pizza and would love to try New York STYLE (going to NY in August) or any other STYLE of pizza there is. i don't think you can say anything (food wise in general) is any better or worse just because it is a different STYLE. Taste is based on the individual. if it tastes good to you, that's good enough for me. either you like it or you don't. But don't completely dismiss something because, in your eyes, it doesn't conform to what you believe is right. if that's the way you roll, you'll be missing out on some serious eats:)
on a side note(s)...
simon's comments are funny to me (some people just get a kick out of provoking others. it's not worth getting mad at these people. Although, DJ Bubbles had some pretty funny retorts to his comments)
welcome Daniel! I have been following CPC for a while and you are a welcome addition here, good to get another perspective in here.
also, i would venture to guess that Daniel's headline at the top, "Greetings from the Pizza Capital of the World!" was meant more as a playful greeting for his first post, rather than a "screw you NY" as some people have taken it... just my two cents
also, sorry for chiming in a bit late on this. i was away from a computer for a while and i just got to this. i actually felt compelled to sign up for the site just so i could throw down some words on this discussion... Keep up the good work Serious Eats crew!
hookrilla at 2:25PM on 06/12/08