Michael Bauer, food critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, recently named his six favorite pizzerias in the Bay Area. Bauer has been writing a weekly blog post about San Francisco pizza for nearly a year now, usually with accompanying videos, and I guess he feels he has surveyed the field thoroughly enough to weigh in with a definitive list. Or maybe he's finally sick of pizza.
There are some surprising names on the list, along with a few sure-to-be-controversial omissions. The omissions are sure to bring out a hornet's nest of protesters. They include Chicago-style Zachary's, the most popular Bay Area pizzeria; Tommaso's, the oldest pizzeria in San Francisco; Little Star, a newer Chicago-style pizzeria that has been reviewed favorably; Pizzetta 213, super-thin, super-crisp pizza in the Richmond district; Pizzeria Delfina, an offshoot of the very good Italian restaurant with the same name; and A-16, the Neapolitan restaurant and pizzeria which had very fine pizza when I ate there a few years ago researching Slice of Heaven.
Mind you, I agree with the inclusion of the pizzerias I've tried on Bauer's best-of list. I myself found Zachary's mediocre at best, Little Star better but still not great, Pizzetta 213 decent and heartfelt but not inspired, and Tommaso's to be more romantic than delicious. I haven't been to Pizzeria Delfina, though friends who know pizza think it's very good.
I emailed Michael Bauer asking. His response, after the jump.
Villa Romana and Pasquale's, two pizza joints Michael Bauer did not visit but that have pretty neon signs.
"The reason is that there are only six spots," he wrote. "I almost included Delfina, but I wanted to get geographic diversity, too. I went back twice, and in the end I liked the wood-fired pizzas at Picco and Pizzaiolo better. I like Little Star, but not as much as the others; Zachary's pizza was like cardboard when I was there. Tomasso's is OK; I like Pizzetta 213, but, again, not as much as the others. I didn't do the cafe at Chez Panisse because the pizza is a minor player there."
My Take on Four of Bauer's Picks
Pizzeria Picco in Larkspur, where chef-owner Bruce Hill bakes excellent super-light Neapolitan-inspired pies and organic soft-serve ice cream with olive oil for dessert. Thankfully, the ice cream does not find its way to the pizza. 320 Magnolia Avenue, Larkspur CA 94939 (map); 415-945-8900; pizzeriapicco.com
Pauline's, where they serve what I call cornmeal dusted California-style hipster pizza with toppings that are sometimes but not always in their own garden. I ate there with Bauer a few years ago and liked but did not love it. Creativity has its place when it comes to pizza toppings, but I must admit my appreciation for such things doesn't extend to a pie topped with Meyer lemon purée, goat cheese, and greens. 260 Valencia Street, San Francisco CA 94103 (map); 415-552-2050; paulinespizza.com
Pizzaiolo: Charlie Halliwell is the closest thing San Francisco has to Chris Bianco (Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix) and Anthony Mangieri (Una Pizza Napoletana in New York). Excellent wood-fired pies made with great ingredients made by someone who really cares. 5008 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland CA 94609 (map); 510-652-4888; pizzaiolooakland.com
Gioia: New York–style slices with California influences. I liked it well enough when I tried quite a few slices here, but Gioia wouldn't be a top-six pick in New York. 1568 Hopkins Street, Berkeley CA; 510-528-4692; gioiapizzeria.com
Here are brief summaries of Bauer's take on the two pizzerias on his list I haven't been to, along with a couple of observations by me:
Rosso: John Franchetti, the pizza-maker at Tra Vigne, has, in Bauer's words "built a better pie at his own place in Santa Rosa." That may be, and I haven't been so I can't pass judgment, but when Bauer writes about Franchetti's Goomba pie, featuring spaghetti and meatballs as toppings, I gotta wonder. 53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa CA 95404 (map); 707-544-3221; rossopizzeria.com
Gialina: A chef-driven pizzeria run by Sharon Ardiana, who has apparently aroused the ire of Neapolitan purists by not using a wood-fired oven. I have not been. Sometimes, though, it's not as much about the heat source as it is the heat, as I found out first-hand at Apizza Scholls in Portland, Oregon. 2842 Diamond Street, San Francisco CA 94131 (map); 415-239-8500; gialina.com
I am surprised that Pizzeria Delfina is not on the list. I had an excellent culinary experience there. As you can see from the link below, my camera enjoyed it as much as I did:
Hopefully when you do finally get to check the place out, those sand dabs will be on the menu. Also, they are opening a second location in Pacific Heights and I suspect they will install a wood burning oven at that location.
The only places i am not familiar with are Rosso and Gialina, will try them soon.
I agree with all of Ed's comments on the ommissions, none belong on the list. Also Pauline's, good but no way on the best list. I am surprised Ed did not even mention Amici's.
Picco is very good, flatbread style, belongs on the list. To have Goia on there and not Amici's makes no sense. In fact, no matter how you slice it, anyone who leave Amici's off the list has no idea what they are talking about. Bauer has good taste buds.......but is not savvy when it comes to pizza.
Pizzaiolo definitely belongs on the list, leaving A18 off is hard to understand.
I have been a pizzaiolo student for 43 years, my pizza consists of "00" flour, san marzano's, bufala or fior d'latte.........the finest ingredients..........i am a master at dough and pizza making.........yet i always marvel at the consistent quality with that brick oven char and the wonderful NY/East coast style pizza they have achieved. They should have been on the list!
Our favorite pizza place here in San Francisco is The Village on Van Ness Avenue. I'm not sure if it's the "best" in the City, but it's consistently good and they don't skimp on toppings.
It's better than Amici, I haven't tried the others on Michael's list.
OK, Don't laught, but Victors PIzza on Polk near California is great, great pizza. I especially like the slices after they have had a chance to cool off a bit in the heat lamp. (I know, crazy) I live in NY now, but miss Victors. Am I crazy?
@NYMinknit: It's now been too long since I sampled Pizzaiolo to weigh in. It was good, but it didn't super-blow-me-away, so that's about all I can say right now.
I had several really great pizzas at A16 back in early 2006. I know they want through some chef changes and heard it slipped, but now have heard it is back to greatness. The place is very cool too...they were actually roasting corn on the cob in the ovens - practically every table had some.
Just the other day, I was out to eat with my friends at Butterfly down on the piers, where I had the tender duck dish. Food was delicious, but what surprised me more was Butterfly’s partnership with StreetSmart4Kids. For those of you that don’t know, SS4K is a nonprofit organization, whose mission is to keep homeless teens off the street. The campaign they are running this year is called “Dine Out and Donate.” All you have to do is visit one of the participating restaurants around the city (visit www.streetsmart4kids.org for a list) and give a donation when you pay the check. It’s a really great way to give back to the community without the stress of doing strenuous community service labor. So next time you’re going out for a night on the town, check out SS4K’s restaurant list and kill two birds with one stone—eat great and do it for a great cause!
Zaydon, completely agree. SF is currently going through a gourmet pizza phase - leaving the classic traditional pizza in the dust. When it comes to an old school, solid pie - Victor's knows what they're doing. And they deliver, more than the Delfina's and Pauline's of the world can claim. For a closer look, check www.slicefinder.com, an SF based ratings and review site.
Just ate at the Delfina in Pacific Heights last week and it was excellent...A more in depth review is coming.Pizza in SF and the Bay Area is definitely way better than it used to be when i lived there...yum,yum
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11 Comments:
Ed,
I am surprised that Pizzeria Delfina is not on the list. I had an excellent culinary experience there. As you can see from the link below, my camera enjoyed it as much as I did:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pauliegee/sets/72157600889688256/
Hopefully when you do finally get to check the place out, those sand dabs will be on the menu. Also, they are opening a second location in Pacific Heights and I suspect they will install a wood burning oven at that location.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 11:19PM on 08/09/08
The only places i am not familiar with are Rosso and Gialina, will try them soon.
I agree with all of Ed's comments on the ommissions, none belong on the list. Also Pauline's, good but no way on the best list. I am surprised Ed did not even mention Amici's.
Picco is very good, flatbread style, belongs on the list. To have Goia on there and not Amici's makes no sense. In fact, no matter how you slice it, anyone who leave Amici's off the list has no idea what they are talking about. Bauer has good taste buds.......but is not savvy when it comes to pizza.
Pizzaiolo definitely belongs on the list, leaving A18 off is hard to understand.
I have been a pizzaiolo student for 43 years, my pizza consists of "00" flour, san marzano's, bufala or fior d'latte.........the finest ingredients..........i am a master at dough and pizza making.........yet i always marvel at the consistent quality with that brick oven char and the wonderful NY/East coast style pizza they have achieved. They should have been on the list!
mickcohen at 2:35AM on 08/10/08
Our favorite pizza place here in San Francisco is The Village on Van Ness Avenue. I'm not sure if it's the "best" in the City, but it's consistently good and they don't skimp on toppings.
It's better than Amici, I haven't tried the others on Michael's list.
suegsf at 3:19AM on 08/10/08
OK, Don't laught, but Victors PIzza on Polk near California is great, great pizza. I especially like the slices after they have had a chance to cool off a bit in the heat lamp. (I know, crazy) I live in NY now, but miss Victors. Am I crazy?
zaydon at 12:11PM on 08/11/08
Hi Ed, Pizzetta is actually Pizzetta 211. But calling it Pizzetta 213 is so charmingly non-San Franciscan that I think you should leave it. ;)
I think you're right about Pauline's. It's so Californian. I love it, but can totally understand when people don't love it.
I have only been to Picco once, but I didn't find it to be worth leaving the city for, preferring A16, Pizzetta 211, and P. Delfina.
Jen Maiser at 4:50PM on 08/11/08
Adam, I believe, has been to Pizzaolo...when will the Slice Grandmaster weigh in?!?
NYminknit at 5:41PM on 08/11/08
@NYMinknit: It's now been too long since I sampled Pizzaiolo to weigh in. It was good, but it didn't super-blow-me-away, so that's about all I can say right now.
Adam Kuban at 6:54PM on 08/11/08
I had several really great pizzas at A16 back in early 2006. I know they want through some chef changes and heard it slipped, but now have heard it is back to greatness. The place is very cool too...they were actually roasting corn on the cob in the ovens - practically every table had some.
canerosso at 10:55AM on 08/12/08
Just the other day, I was out to eat with my friends at Butterfly down on the piers, where I had the tender duck dish. Food was delicious, but what surprised me more was Butterfly’s partnership with StreetSmart4Kids. For those of you that don’t know, SS4K is a nonprofit organization, whose mission is to keep homeless teens off the street. The campaign they are running this year is called “Dine Out and Donate.” All you have to do is visit one of the participating restaurants around the city (visit www.streetsmart4kids.org for a list) and give a donation when you pay the check. It’s a really great way to give back to the community without the stress of doing strenuous community service labor. So next time you’re going out for a night on the town, check out SS4K’s restaurant list and kill two birds with one stone—eat great and do it for a great cause!
foodie321 at 8:12PM on 08/18/08
Zaydon, completely agree. SF is currently going through a gourmet pizza phase - leaving the classic traditional pizza in the dust. When it comes to an old school, solid pie - Victor's knows what they're doing. And they deliver, more than the Delfina's and Pauline's of the world can claim. For a closer look, check www.slicefinder.com, an SF based ratings and review site.
gregdodge at 11:01PM on 04/23/09
Just ate at the Delfina in Pacific Heights last week and it was excellent...A more in depth review is coming.Pizza in SF and the Bay Area is definitely way better than it used to be when i lived there...yum,yum
L.A. Pizza Maven at 12:09PM on 04/24/09