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Openings: Little Luzzo's

Clicking in to the Slice inbox today, we've got some intel from Scott Wiener of Scott's New York Pizza Tours...

20080929-littleluzzospies.jpg

20080929-littleluzzos-exterior.jpgDear Slice, Letters From Our ReadersAdam,
I was helping a friend move this weekend and nearly drove onto the sidewalk when I saw a familiar carved-wood sign on the facade of a 96th Street building on the Upper East Side. Little Luzzo's opened about two weeks ago, serving quality slices, salads, and panini in a small storefront.

Unlike Luzzo's in the East Village, which uses an old coal-fired brick oven (211 First Avenue was once the home of the Palermo Bakery, followed by Zito's East), this location uses a brick-lined gas-fueled deck oven (Bakers Pride).

The result is a completely different slice, much thicker and sturdier with a sourdough flavor. The char on the underside is lovely, and they use beautiful fresh mozzarella on the Margherita. I'll get the exact address for you as soon as I get back home, where I filed the menu.

Not the same pizza you'll get at Luzzo's, but there are several variables, including the eatery's goal, which prevent such a duplication.

Have a slice day,
Scott

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Scott,
Thanks for the intel and the pix. As you and other longtime Slice readers know, I'm not so hot on Luzzo's, but what you're describing here is intriguing, because it sounds like what they're doing at "Little Luzzo's" remedies what I've always found lacking in original Luzzo's pies—flimsy pizza and flavorless crust. Little Luzzo's sounds like it may address these issues, and I'm eager to try.

Please do get that address info as soon as you can!

Thanks again, dood. (And nice sign off, btw.)

Hasta la pizza,
Adam

4 Comments:

I find that downtown Luzzo's is somewhat variable. I've been there three times...each time the crust has been flavorless but the pizza evinced varying degrees of tip sag each time. Once it was totally flimsy, then once semi-firm and the third time perfect. I'm not sure why the difference - the best time was on a Sunday night...

The address is 119 East 96th, Lex/Park. Charles the mgr is a nice guy. Tell him Jack says hi.

The Litter Luzzo in 96 street is a very cutie and confortable as the Luzzo's in 1st ave. The Atmosphere in both Luzzo is plesure when you eat there. The Litter Luzzo slices are very delicious and crispy. Luzzo's slices will be have same good taste anywhere Luzzo's move.......................

ok so i've gone about five times here on my way home from work; thursday nights around 8:30. i'll preface this by saying a) i've never loved the original luzzo's--i think they turn out good pies but nothing spectacular b) i lived for some time in this neighborhood and save for one small slice joint long since gone, it's a pizza wasteland c) i hold a low expectation for by the slice pizza in manhattan--i appreciate artichoke and vincenz when they're on, but otherwise you are pretty much destined for mediocrity.

so then... little luzzo's is making probably the most enjoyable slice for sale north of 14th street. make no mistake, the sauce is totally meh. no flavor at all, if anything close to the Roma distributor sauce you can get in any mall in the U.S.

but oh man, the crust is fantastic for a gas oven. good char, pillowy and just the right amount of chewy. i like that for a $2.50 basic plain slice you get good dollops of fresh mozz and a drizzle of olive oil (that i witnessed them applying on the base of the cornicione from a squeeze bottle, so it seeps down across the cut lines). even a reheated slice is crisp with some good chew and a good mix of cheese and crust flavor. wish that sauce was a bit more robust...

bottom line: this place is kicking 99% of the by the slice joints in the borough. the main problem i've found is they have a lot of pies sitting out that have obviously been there for hours. i'm not messing with those. one night i went and got a reheated slice right as a fresh pie came out topped with sausage. wish i could have gotten that too but i'm on a pizza diet. :(

there's never anyone in this place, which is a shame since i want them to do well. wish i still lived in the 'hood because a delivery pie would trump the other local options (a ray's and zesty--the antichrist of decent pizza). if you're ever in the area i would be extremely interested in getting your $.02.

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