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John's Pizzeria in Jersey City, New Jersey

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John's of Jersey City

87 Sussex Street, Jersey City NJ 07302 (near Washington Street; map); 201-433-4411; johnspizzerianyc.com
Pizza Style: New York–Neapolitan
Oven Type: Coal-fired

Strangers are astounded when I say I live in Jersey City. "Really? Isn't that far from Manhattan?" It's 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the time of day, which most people aren't aware of. Because of this, there's a rumor going around town that Jersey City-ites are living in the boondocks, and just as far away from New York as the rest of New Jersey. So when I tell people that there is a John's Pizzeria in Jersey City, I'm met with a similar astonishment. "In Jersey City? Is it really John's?" Yes, it's definitely John's, even if their website doesn't acknowledge it. This location seems like the half brother that everyone is ashamed of and no one wants to talk about.

John's is at 87 Sussex Street, about a seven-minute walk from the Exchange Place PATH station, a measly four minutes from the World Trade Center (accessible via 2, 3, R, W, 4, 5, J, M, Z). The decor features outdoor tables and an inside dining room very similar to the John's in Times Square, or so I'm told. Still no slices, but there is a large entrée menu with plenty of options for those who just want their pasta and meatballs.

Obviously, we came for the pizza. You're given four options: Margherita, pizza bianca, marinara (no cheese), and bruschetta. We ordered the Margherita, the "plain" option, which John's also makes with a whole-wheat crust. We also ordered a pizza bianca topped with spinach. Since I've heard so much dissing of this location's pizza, we figured two kinds of pizza would give us a glimpse into a similar-quality product that our New York City friends have closer access to.

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Maybe it was just bad luck, but the crust, which I've heard raves about, was thin yet not crunchy, barely browned, and unmemorable. The sauce was one of the better pizza sauces I've had in the area. The cheese lacked flavor, and there was too much of it, leaving me begging for more sauce. The Italian in me was screaming for basil. Knowing how well-regarded the New York locations are, I was shocked at how unimpressive this pie was. (However, I took home two leftover slices, had two glasses of wine, overcooked the pizza in my toaster oven, and it was miles better.)

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The pizza bianca, covered in ricotta, mozzarella, herbs, and a fresh coating of spinach (our choice of topping), was a delight in comparison. The crust was surprisingly crisp, and the seasonings and choice of spinach woke up my dulled Margherita taste buds. Perhaps straying from the norm, plain-jane pizza is the way to go at this John's location—layering on their toppings, which are somewhat expensive, will save your dinner from boredom.

Perhaps a new coal-fired brick oven needs some time to make some great, consistent pizza, but this location is not a great representation of the classic pizza that our own Ed Levine thinks is "better than you can find at 95 percent of the pizzerias in this country."

Given the lack of foot traffic in the area, I wonder how full John's can get. I'm eager to hear from readers who might've had a Bleecker-comparable experience here. Until then, I'll stick to my favorite New York City haunts and my homemade pizzas.

Related

John's Pizzeria, A Familiar Taste
John's Pizzeria in Jersey City

13 Comments:

I live in Hoboken, another place in NJ that people never realize is so close to the city. Here we have an offshoot of Grimaldi's. Basically just like the better known version in Brooklyn only without the long, long lines. But if you want really good pizza I suggest hopping on the PATH and coming over here to Napoli's. That's my favorite pizza in town. It tastes fresh, the sauce is excellent and they don't overdo it on the cheese.

I actually used to work in Hoboken.. and happen to be there as I write this.. right by Grimaldi's: I am a big fan. Never had Napoli's (don't make it much uptown). Now I'll try to make a special trip.. Thanks!

As a former Jersey City resident and a big fan of the city (America's greatest, as far as I'm concerned), I'll have to try John's out. At the very least, it will give me an excuse to go to the Park Tavern.

I can also vouch for Grimaldi's in Hobooken. Good stuff, there.

i've been to john's twice (though it was in june/july I believe) and i want to believe that they were still ironing out the kinks. our pizza was lackluster, like yours, but on top of that the service was slow and the second time the AC was broken during a heat wave. I know they can't help mechanical failures but they didn't apologize or even mention it and though it was boiling in there, our water glasses sat empty for a long time.

i want to believe that john's in jc will be better! I'll head back, but now that La Rustique is a couple blocks from my apartment the draw is less strong.

I ate at La Rustique on Sunday afternoon. Got a Margherita slice that was huge, but quanity is not quality. It was not world class, but it was the best I've had in JC. The area within walking distance of the Grove Street station can use an artisinal pizzeria. With it's close proximity to Manhattan (2 stops from both WTC and Christopher Street on two different PATH lines), it should be able to pull enthusiasts from across the river.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

To all the La Rustique people: I just had a slice tonight and to me, the sauce barely tasted of tomatoes, and the only thing I tasted was salt and crust. I enjoy a crispy crust, but I wasn't intending to eat flatbread with some slightly flavored tomato sauce and fresh mozz (is this mozzarella homemade? according to the menu it is--I wouldn't dare ask the guy taking orders in the take-out area, he's extremely unapproachable).

The slice was about as big as my face. Quantity is definitely not quality. But I'd prefer the 10 minute walk to La Rustique (so far) to Helen's, Stella's, or Esperanto's--all pizza places within 3 blocks of my apartment.

@Allison Did you notice what a mess he made of the exterior of his Wood Stone oven by covering it with what appears to be a cardboard brick facade?

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

@pauliegee: I wanted to take a picture of that, but I think he would've grabbed my camera and yelled "You take-a no pictures!" Did you see the menu is half bricks as well? Next time I go in, I will sneak a picture while his back is turned.

Have you had any of the other pies yet? I've only had the Margherita and I'm hoping the whole pie is a might be a bit better than the single slice.

Over on jclist, there's a thread that keeps expanding with half supporters, half "I'll take what I can get".

My second-cousin, Salvatore Lombardi, took me for my first slice of pizza in Jersey City's Journal Square when we were kids. That became my standard. I've lived all over the country (including both New Jersey and New York, in Manhattan) and visited several countries in Europe (Italy included) and I've concluded that New Jersey, especially Hudson County and Seaside Heights, has the best pizza in the WORLD!

I haven't been to John's but I don't have to go there to know it's good. In New Jersey, there are two kinds of pizzerias, very good pizzerias, and out-of-business pizzerias. Garden Staters demand perfect pizza.

Even the worst pizza in New Jersey is better than the best pizza in most other places, except for a few seaport cities where lots of Italian immigrants settled, like Boston, New Orleans, and San Francisco.

And, the next time I visit Jersey City (where both of my grandfathers were born) I'll go to John;s for pizza.

@jerseywarren: I have to take issue with your theory about " two kinds of pizzerias". There are plenty of mediocre pizzerias in jersey city. Helen's and Stella's are perfect examples of the genre. My own take on jc pizza is as follows:
http://www.izzyeats.com/2008/08/jersey-city-pizza-debate-rages-on.html

As for John's, my experience was similar in that it wasn't stellar. I am glad to have it here though and hope it improves.

@Allison I'd love to see that picture. Be sure not to get his back in it. I have only had his Margherita twice(So sue me, I was starvin'). I also had half a veal parm sandwich. It was nothing out of the ordinary. BTW, there is certainly a lot of opinion on La Rustique on the jclist. Is that typical of that site?

@JerseyWarren Do you like in Warren or is your name Warren? I ask because I live in Warren (Somerset County). Before you drew that conclusion about the best pizza in the world you should have hopped over Manhattan and sampled the goods in the Borough of Churches.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

@pauliegee everyone is quite opinionated on jclist. there wasn't as much talk about John's as there is for La Rustique, I think because Rustique is not quite a newcomer. There is also less than stellar pizza in the Van Vorst/Harsimus Cove area, so most are just grateful to have something even classified as decent. They can't go around and expect this place to have first-rate service like some of the Italian mob joints in JC.. we just have to keep stressing to people to focus on the pizza, eat it outside the cafe, or take it home!

hey paulie im from warren and go to frank pepe in new haven sorry it was that good luna

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