On Saturday Slice–Serious Eats sponsored a talk called The Pieman's Craft as part of the New York Wine & Food Festival. A crowd of about 35 people showed up for the event, including some familiar faces—and some new faces that we were able to put to Slice screen names (which is always fun!).
Noted pizza expert Ed Levine talked to Anthony Mangieri, drawing out his piemaking history and, eventually, his philosophy.
The session was also a bit of a juxtaposition of styles, with Ed bringing some Vinny Vincenz plain pies to illustrate a very good New York slice and some Totonno's pies (Second Avenue) to rep the coal-oven school.
After about a half hour of talking and eating the first two examples of NYC pizza, Mangieri went to town making the pies everyone had no doubt been salivating for. After the jump, the UPN process.
The UPN Process
Mangieri has a well-organized prep table. The dough-proofing bins are on rails and slide in and out beneath the countertop.
Saucing the dough. Mangieri revealed for the first time that he uses an uncooked sauce on his pies. This came as little surprise.
Adding sea salt.
Next comes the cheese. Mangieri uses only buffalo mozzarella, which he had previously imported from Italy. But we learned yesterday that Mangieri has been getting his buffala from a dairy farm in California. He says that it has a little less flavor than the Italian stuff—but only if the Italian stuff is at its peak. And that, he said, is difficult to procure.
Putting on a nice amount of basil.
Mangieri moves the pie to the pizza peel, and stretches it some more.
I thought UPN's pizza was good, but not worth the trek. It was interesting to know what authentic pizza tastes like. However, given the high price, limited choices, frankly excellent but not among the best I've had flavors, and that my my crust was more than a bit burned, I'd recommend other places instead.
@Adam Thanks very much for the credit and kind words. I love your in and out of the oven shots. It was a great event and I'm very glad I was able to score a ticket. Sign me up now for 2009 wherever it may be.
@OneEyedMan I guess we are on different pages, because I liked it so much I drove by with a friend just to show him the place before heading to the land of my birth to enjoy the fare at the newly crowned number 1 NYC pizzeria, Lucali's. When I lucked into a parking spot and saw there was no line at UPN, we stepped in and grabbed another delicious Margherita pie. I loved it. Big burn bubble and all.
Thanks for the mention Adam and the discreet photo. Like Ruth Reichel I must retain my anonymity in order to review all things delicious. Let me know when you and Ed (and Scott wiener) are ready for a roadtrip to Old Forge PA, the self-proclaimed Pizza Capitol of the world.
-Guttergourmet
It was brilliant. I just wish I hadn't ate the first two pies, and saved room for more of Anthony's. This is definitely my kind of pizza. Really nice guy, who's had barely held his own for years, and has finally gotten his due.
If I had known Paulie Gee would be there, I would have come in a flash.
His photos and commentaries are awesome...and he seems to frequent some of the same out-of-the-way geography as I.
@famdoc It would have been my pleasure as well. You write some excellent reviews. It was a great event, so be sure not to miss the 2009 version. As far as out of the way places go, mark your calandar. I'll be hittin' Pizzeria Bianco on May 28th. My son is graduating the Air Force Academy in Colorado Springs on 5/27 and a bunch of friends and family are flying to Vegas the next morning. After picking up my bags from the carrosel, I'll be hopping in a rental with my son and heading right to Chris Bianco's place (4 hours each way). After dinner we'll head back to Vegas. The strip will just have to wait.
Thank you. I'll be sure my son Michael aka Mikie Mootz reads this blog again now that you've posted such kind words. I just hope he becomes as proficient a pilot as he is an ovenmaster. During the rare times he is home, he loves workin' that thing and does very well getting it crankin' to the requisite 900 degrees and keeping there.
Una Pizza Napoletana is one of the strongest arguments for Americans' susceptibility to hype. This place produces soggy pizza of totally uninspired and not even authentic quality. The smart ass waiters don't help: when I asked for pepper (the margarita was tasteless) I was told there was none. Typical Lower East Side Manhattan bs.
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17 Comments:
Awesome! I love the UPN process and finally putting faces to some of my fellow pizza-heads.
sean_taylor at 1:35PM on 10/13/08
Very cool photos. Wish I could have been there!
Laurel E at 1:47PM on 10/13/08
Ditto. Sounds like fun.
s4xton at 1:50PM on 10/13/08
I thought UPN's pizza was good, but not worth the trek. It was interesting to know what authentic pizza tastes like. However, given the high price, limited choices, frankly excellent but not among the best I've had flavors, and that my my crust was more than a bit burned, I'd recommend other places instead.
OneEyedMan at 1:52PM on 10/13/08
Delish - I have to go to Naples to get something that looks close to that...
JimInHolland at 2:27PM on 10/13/08
@Adam Thanks very much for the credit and kind words. I love your in and out of the oven shots. It was a great event and I'm very glad I was able to score a ticket. Sign me up now for 2009 wherever it may be.
@OneEyedMan I guess we are on different pages, because I liked it so much I drove by with a friend just to show him the place before heading to the land of my birth to enjoy the fare at the newly crowned number 1 NYC pizzeria, Lucali's. When I lucked into a parking spot and saw there was no line at UPN, we stepped in and grabbed another delicious Margherita pie. I loved it. Big burn bubble and all.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 2:42PM on 10/13/08
Thanks for the mention Adam and the discreet photo. Like Ruth Reichel I must retain my anonymity in order to review all things delicious. Let me know when you and Ed (and Scott wiener) are ready for a roadtrip to Old Forge PA, the self-proclaimed Pizza Capitol of the world.
-Guttergourmet
guttergour at 4:21PM on 10/13/08
I'm so freakin' jealous!
egadman at 5:46PM on 10/13/08
It was brilliant. I just wish I hadn't ate the first two pies, and saved room for more of Anthony's. This is definitely my kind of pizza. Really nice guy, who's had barely held his own for years, and has finally gotten his due.
moesizlacks at 10:22AM on 10/14/08
Great pizza party. I love side-by-side comparisons so dang much.
@Guttergourmet I'm game for Old Forge. In fact, I almost went there yesterday by mistake.
ScottWiener at 12:55PM on 10/14/08
If I had known Paulie Gee would be there, I would have come in a flash.
His photos and commentaries are awesome...and he seems to frequent some of the same out-of-the-way geography as I.
famdoc at 1:12PM on 10/14/08
@famdoc It would have been my pleasure as well. You write some excellent reviews. It was a great event, so be sure not to miss the 2009 version. As far as out of the way places go, mark your calandar. I'll be hittin' Pizzeria Bianco on May 28th. My son is graduating the Air Force Academy in Colorado Springs on 5/27 and a bunch of friends and family are flying to Vegas the next morning. After picking up my bags from the carrosel, I'll be hopping in a rental with my son and heading right to Chris Bianco's place (4 hours each way). After dinner we'll head back to Vegas. The strip will just have to wait.
Thanks again,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 2:11PM on 10/14/08
@Paulie Gee: Congrats to your son! Wow. Air Force Academy is hardcore.
Adam Kuban at 2:14PM on 10/14/08
@Paulie Gee: I second Adam's congratulations. An officer and a gentleman.
famdoc at 7:11PM on 10/14/08
Thank you. I'll be sure my son Michael aka Mikie Mootz reads this blog again now that you've posted such kind words. I just hope he becomes as proficient a pilot as he is an ovenmaster. During the rare times he is home, he loves workin' that thing and does very well getting it crankin' to the requisite 900 degrees and keeping there.
Thanks again,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 10:26PM on 10/14/08
Una Pizza Napoletana is one of the strongest arguments for Americans' susceptibility to hype. This place produces soggy pizza of totally uninspired and not even authentic quality. The smart ass waiters don't help: when I asked for pepper (the margarita was tasteless) I was told there was none. Typical Lower East Side Manhattan bs.
gyges03 at 6:37PM on 10/22/08
@gyges03 So you didn't like the place?
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 8:04PM on 10/22/08