Celeste is that rare bird: a true neighborhood restaurant. The atmosphere is convivial. The staff is pleasant and efficient. And the food is sublime. Start with a pizza, ideally the bracing and authentic Napoletana, which builds upon its crust with layers of flavor: sweet tomato, acidic caper, salty anchovy. 502 Amsterdam Avenue, New York NY 10024 (at 85th Street; map); 212-874-4559 [New York Times]

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