"Our pizzas are not always round."

Clockwise from top left: Co. opened with a soft launch this evening; there were actual people from the general public in the dining room. As FOS Kathryn Yu said, from the outside, it looks less like a pizzeria than a fancy Asian restaurant. One of the stars of the evening, the Ham and Cheese pie. (You can click all images bigger.)

When I checked in late afternoon to find out if Co. really was opening on Friday, the gentleman in the dining room told me, "Yes—and tonight, too." It was a sort of soft opening. With the place just a couple block from Slice–Serious Eats HQ, my workmate Alaina and I went to check it out. We were joined by her husband and a couple friends.

I've already given you more Co. Pizzeria than you need, so I'll keep this one mostly to pictures. Ahead, photos of what we had—and the big menu reveal!

Click me bigger »

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I love this disclaimer.

First up, the Boscaiola: tomato, mushroom, buffalo mozz, pork sausage, onion, chiles. After all was said and done, the table agreed that this was one of two standouts tonight. This was one of my favorites from the preview I went to, and I was glad to see it made it onto the actual menu.

Next out of the gate was the Special Pie: brussels sprouts, béchamel, cantal, buffalo mozz, shaved chestnuts, and smoked bacon. It was good, but the brussels sprouts overwhelmed the rest of the flavors—even the bacon to some degree. This one was not in the preview I had.

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The basic Margherita and its upskirt.

The Margherita arrived next. It was excellent, but I have to say that this is one of the rare occasions where I've liked topped pizzas more than a plain pie. Its crust was light and crisp, with great hole structure and plenty of yeasty flavor, but it was still beaten out by the Boscaiola and one other. (You're going to have to keep reading to find out which one.)

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The Flambé was the next to hit the table. It has caramelized onions, Parmesan, buffalo mozz, and lardons. It's a white pie, and though the menu does not list béchamel as one of its components, I believe it was present, as this one was very heavy. The lardons were porky goodness, but even with five people splitting it, we found it was quite the gut-buster.

Oh, I just realized that I revealed in the opening photo that the Ham and Cheese pie was one of the two stars of the evening. Well, that's why its photo appears twice here, I guess. It's topped with pecorino, gruyère, buffalo mozzarella and prosciutto and has a few of caraway seeds incorporated into the bottom of the crust. Not that you can see any in the upskirt here:

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Co. will be open officially on Friday, January 2. It will serve dinner only for now—though we're told that it may start serving lunch as soon as late January (which in Jim Lahey time means March 2010. Just kidding; we're keeping our fingers crossed that it really does start lunch service by late next month). Hours are 4 p.m. to 11 or 11:30 p.m., depending on patronage, according to a Co. employee.

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Co.

230 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10001 (at West 24th Street; map)
co-pane.com

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