This review comes from Serious Eats intern Linnea Covington, who was recently in Denver visiting family. —The Mgmt.
Growing up in Denver, I thought pizza was defined by Pizza Hut, Domino's, and the cult-like chant of Little Caesars': "Caesar! Caesar!" My family preferred Pizza Hut to Domino's, but due to economic difficulties often opted for Little Caesars' two-for-one square pizza deal with free soda.
But, on special occasions, we dipped into the kitty and sprang for Anthony's Pizza and Pasta. Anthony's was a pioneer of New York-style pizza in Denver, and for a 10-year-old kid it was amazing. Now it's not so much since I can compare it to the real thing, but it's still okay.
Despite Denver's attempts at making New York-style pizza (and they do try; Famous Pizza, in comparison, is another popular chain that doesn't make bad pizza, just not true New York-style pizza), I was shocked to come across a place that really, really wanted to push Brooklyn pizza—Fuhgidabowdit, which is owned by two former New York City cops.
The "graffiti" decorated walls glowed under the fluorescent lights, and one lone cheese pie sat under a glass counter. Given, this joint is located next to Denver University and I went during a holiday week, so that might justify the lack of excitement at Fuhgidabowdit, but it didn't excuse the actual taste of the pizza. A basic slice cost $2.43 (tax not included), and if you wanted a topping like ham, beef, garlic, pineapple, or jalapeños, they slapped it on unceremoniously.
Now, some people say New York pizza gets its amazing taste because of the water. If that's true, Denver surely doesn't have it. My slice came out piping hot—a good sign, right? It looked good, too, with the gentle bubble of air-filled dough rising in the corner. I bit in, and, oh! Oh. Flavorless. Hot and boring.
The crust was too thick and stiff as a board. The cheese was clumpy and didn't fight me in gooey, succulent strings like Stromboli, one of my favorite pizza places in the East Village. I was dismayed that there was no garlic powder around, so I added a good amount of crushed red pepper to it. But even after that, the slice tasted as if the Olive Garden had decided to open a pizza parlor.
Woe is me! Please, Denver, stop trying to make New York-style pizza. Just stick with what you know, like Beau Jo's Colorado style pizza, which is a hearty, thick pie full of chunky ingredients with a crust so moist and plump that you can pull it off and dip it in honey for dessert. Now that is what you should get in Denver.
Brooklyn pizza? Fuhgidabowdit.
Fuhgidabowdit Pizzeria
2041 S. University Boulevard, Denver CO 80210 (map)
303-777-5200 dupizzeria.com
Although "Coal-Fired" is in their name, Marco is burning wood in his authentic Napoletana ovens. It looks like the real deal to me. He even uses Molino Caputo flour. The air is rarified and the LoDo neighborhood is very gentrified. I'll be sure to come back with a report and some photos.
wasn't the chant pizza, pizza? At least the marketing here on the shores of lake erie echoed with caesar's pizza pizza chant. Where's the upskirt? Just a profile?
A real pizza is hard to find...maybe those Denver University students prefer cardboard with cheese on it? Keep up your quest for New York pizza in Denver... when I was growing up we never ate pizza at all, I remember in my teens we went to a place called Shakey's Pizza where they had a jukebox. I still like Little Caesar's.
Joey's at 329 E. Colfax Between Grant and Logan is the closest (edible) thing I have found to NY pizza here in Denver. The owner is a transplant from the Bronx and although the crust doesn't (and will never, in my opinion) deliver quite like back home, it has decent flavor and he understands the pivotal sauce-to-cheese ratio that so many Denver slice shops screw up royally. But, sadly, the hours are lacking (open till 8PM Monday-Saturday) and what's worse, the wings are TERRIBLE. You can't win 'em all, but you can definitely, uh, fuhgidabowd that other place.
Hey, quit dissing Colorado...you can't have everything! Abo's has great pizza (true NY style) they are in Boulder and several other locations along the front range, and another great pizza is at Mezzaluna (only in Vail and Aspen but worth it if you are there). Sorry, get cranky that folks on the east coast don't think anyone in Colorado knows good food.
@ rckymtn1 --Let me make something clear, I LOVE DENVER! It's my home town I know there are tons of good eats there. You should hear me lament the lack of superior tacos here (though I am told to explore Queens and am keeping my fingers crossed it will change my mind) and Mexican food in general. Some places just do things better. And, if you will notice, my adoration for Beau Jo's has not wavered in the 6+ years I have lived in NYC.
I'd take a pie from Virgilio's over BeauJo's any day. For the folks who like the fishies; the puttanesca pizza is excellent. I've also heard good things about Marco's, and have it on my list of places to try.
As another Denver native, I have to stand up for our pizza. But not NY style. My money's on Buenos Aires Pizzeria. They also make a mean milanesa, great empanadas, and the BEST gelato I've had outside of Italy. But their pizza is absolutely killer, and very unique (hard-boiled egg? hearts of palm and golf sauce? It's good, I promise).
I am with the previous posters on Buenos aries Pizza & Marcos Coal Fired Pizza- hooray for Denver. Anthony's varies from location to location.
Hey Bialy- Did you know you could get Bialy's in Denver (maybe it's considered Glendale) Monaco & Leetsdale- next to the Hobby Lobby- thought you'd want to know if you didn't already.
I usually let my photos speak when it comes to reviews, but I will add in this case that the quality of Marco's pies and the overall dining experience surpassed my relatively high expectation level. Marco's pizza is real deal Napoletana, well deserving of their VPN designation. Just check out those little char speckles for evidence. The staff were very accomodating and gracious while I snapped away and discussed all things pizza with them. I strongly encourage anyone who resides in or is visiting the area to check them out and judge for yourself. Here's the link again:
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17 Comments:
It looks like a bad frozen pizza to me!
tinytim at 6:13PM on 01/22/09
My first two guesses:
1. No salt in the dough.
2. Part skim cheese.
peekpoke at 8:15PM on 01/22/09
I'm traveling thru Denver on my way to Vail next month and I did some research. I'm headin' here:
http://www.marcoscoalfiredpizza.com/
Although "Coal-Fired" is in their name, Marco is burning wood in his authentic Napoletana ovens. It looks like the real deal to me. He even uses Molino Caputo flour. The air is rarified and the LoDo neighborhood is very gentrified. I'll be sure to come back with a report and some photos.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 9:23PM on 01/22/09
wasn't the chant pizza, pizza? At least the marketing here on the shores of lake erie echoed with caesar's pizza pizza chant. Where's the upskirt? Just a profile?
tonecapo at 10:47PM on 01/22/09
Order a fresh pizza and let me know.
Prairie at 11:23PM on 01/22/09
A real pizza is hard to find...maybe those Denver University students prefer cardboard with cheese on it? Keep up your quest for New York pizza in Denver... when I was growing up we never ate pizza at all, I remember in my teens we went to a place called Shakey's Pizza where they had a jukebox. I still like Little Caesar's.
jaywarner at 9:20AM on 01/23/09
Joey's at 329 E. Colfax Between Grant and Logan is the closest (edible) thing I have found to NY pizza here in Denver. The owner is a transplant from the Bronx and although the crust doesn't (and will never, in my opinion) deliver quite like back home, it has decent flavor and he understands the pivotal sauce-to-cheese ratio that so many Denver slice shops screw up royally. But, sadly, the hours are lacking (open till 8PM Monday-Saturday) and what's worse, the wings are TERRIBLE. You can't win 'em all, but you can definitely, uh, fuhgidabowd that other place.
RachelDP at 12:10PM on 01/23/09
Hey, quit dissing Colorado...you can't have everything! Abo's has great pizza (true NY style) they are in Boulder and several other locations along the front range, and another great pizza is at Mezzaluna (only in Vail and Aspen but worth it if you are there). Sorry, get cranky that folks on the east coast don't think anyone in Colorado knows good food.
rckymtn1 at 12:14PM on 01/23/09
@ rckymtn1 --Let me make something clear, I LOVE DENVER! It's my home town I know there are tons of good eats there. You should hear me lament the lack of superior tacos here (though I am told to explore Queens and am keeping my fingers crossed it will change my mind) and Mexican food in general. Some places just do things better. And, if you will notice, my adoration for Beau Jo's has not wavered in the 6+ years I have lived in NYC.
Linnea Covington at 12:39PM on 01/23/09
We ate some good pizza a a place in Denver called the subway. It's on Pecos Street, I think.
soozm32 at 3:38PM on 01/23/09
Anthony's near DU had awsome pies! I woner how they are doing now.
Q80 BurgerBelly at 4:40PM on 01/24/09
Cops will eat anything.
Mooner at 5:49PM on 01/24/09
I'd take a pie from Virgilio's over BeauJo's any day. For the folks who like the fishies; the puttanesca pizza is excellent. I've also heard good things about Marco's, and have it on my list of places to try.
Tamsinite at 10:29PM on 01/24/09
As another Denver native, I have to stand up for our pizza. But not NY style. My money's on Buenos Aires Pizzeria. They also make a mean milanesa, great empanadas, and the BEST gelato I've had outside of Italy. But their pizza is absolutely killer, and very unique (hard-boiled egg? hearts of palm and golf sauce? It's good, I promise).
Here's a nice list for some other options, too:
http://blogs.westword.com/cafesociety/2009/01/the_list_a_pizza_for_every_day.php
bialy at 9:40PM on 01/25/09
I am with the previous posters on Buenos aries Pizza & Marcos Coal Fired Pizza- hooray for Denver. Anthony's varies from location to location.
Hey Bialy- Did you know you could get Bialy's in Denver (maybe it's considered Glendale) Monaco & Leetsdale- next to the Hobby Lobby- thought you'd want to know if you didn't already.
bisbee at 1:13PM on 01/27/09
I also think the chant is "Pizza! Pizza!"
greenek at 5:11PM on 01/28/09
I'm back from Colorado and as promised here's a link to the photos I took while at Marco's last evening:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pauliegee/sets/72157614031030708/
I usually let my photos speak when it comes to reviews, but I will add in this case that the quality of Marco's pies and the overall dining experience surpassed my relatively high expectation level. Marco's pizza is real deal Napoletana, well deserving of their VPN designation. Just check out those little char speckles for evidence. The staff were very accomodating and gracious while I snapped away and discussed all things pizza with them. I strongly encourage anyone who resides in or is visiting the area to check them out and judge for yourself. Here's the link again:
http://www.marcoscoalfiredpizza.com/
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 10:42PM on 02/17/09