The pizza at Co. is produced by Jim Lahey of the revered Sullivan St Bakery and answers this question: If pizza is essentially crust, and if crust is essentially bread, and if Lahey is possibly the finest bread-maker in New York, shouldn’t the pizza at Co. be superb? This is not a trick question. The pizza is, for the most part, exactly that. The only flaw is an occasional wrongheaded harmonizing of toppings, annoying but far from fatal.
Richman's take on Motorino, after the jump.
Margherita pie at Motorino.
On Motorino:
It isn’t just the oversized outer ring that makes Motorino’s pies reminiscent of Naples. It’s also the wetness. (Okay, I have an admission: I might be the only person on earth who doesn’t consider the pizza of Naples impeccable.) Motorino’s Margherita DOC pizza—buffalo mozzarella, tomato sauce, basil—is a soggy mess.
The same pie made with the housemade fresh cow’s milk mozzarella is somewhat less mushy in the middle, but when you pick up a slice of either one, most of the toppings slide off. (Don’t tell me to use a knife and fork. That’s no fun.) But please don’t get me wrong: Both taste good, really good, although Motorino’s tomato sauce can’t compete with Co.’s.
For what it's worth, I generally agree with Richman's take on the differences in style. He's more partial to the Co. style, which is thinner, lighter, lacks the puffy cornicione of a Naples-style pie, and is not as wet and sloppy. He digs the flambé pie at Co., which I'm not a huge fan of (too heavy) and really loves the whopper at Motorino with artichokes, smoked pancetta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, onions, and oregano, which he calls "a gorgeous piece of work."
Also, now having read the actual review, I too found Motorino crust "poufy" -- I wood have said "poofy" -- but only in the early days. By a month in it was nice and chewy, not poofy at all IMO.
Last week I commented on the story about Martha Stewart's visit to Co. I noted that the pizza looked burnt. This pizza is far less "charred". Perhaps Co. was listening.
@dmcavanagh If you check the December 30th Co. Soft Opening Photo Gallery posting, you'll notice that the picture above is the same one that was taken that night.
i went and had the pizza bianca (roman style, not "pizza" but more focaccia like) and i had a margherita. both good but I LOVED the pizza bianca much better. It seems that Jim pays ALOT of attention to detail because each
margherita i saw whether there or by photographs show that at least 1 part of the pizza crust has cheese falling over it. I am assuming this is Jim's emphasis on a non uniform natural pizza and he gets his point across very well. It seems to be an intentionally forced Dada-esque artwork. i hope you guys agree.
i also hope you guys check out my pizzaandcoffee.com
take care
Gianluca
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11 Comments:
I have not been to Co but think Motorino's tomato sauce is strikingly good, tremendo. Is Co's really better?
Also I eat at Motorino with fairly alarming frequency and have never had the soggy issue.
Jack_Barber at 7:50PM on 02/03/09
Also, now having read the actual review, I too found Motorino crust "poufy" -- I wood have said "poofy" -- but only in the early days. By a month in it was nice and chewy, not poofy at all IMO.
Jack_Barber at 8:01PM on 02/03/09
Last week I commented on the story about Martha Stewart's visit to Co. I noted that the pizza looked burnt. This pizza is far less "charred". Perhaps Co. was listening.
dmcavanagh at 9:29PM on 02/03/09
@dmcavanagh If you check the December 30th Co. Soft Opening Photo Gallery posting, you'll notice that the picture above is the same one that was taken that night.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 12:46AM on 02/04/09
i went and had the pizza bianca (roman style, not "pizza" but more focaccia like) and i had a margherita. both good but I LOVED the pizza bianca much better. It seems that Jim pays ALOT of attention to detail because each
margherita i saw whether there or by photographs show that at least 1 part of the pizza crust has cheese falling over it. I am assuming this is Jim's emphasis on a non uniform natural pizza and he gets his point across very well. It seems to be an intentionally forced Dada-esque artwork. i hope you guys agree.
i also hope you guys check out my pizzaandcoffee.com
take care
Gianluca
nextgospel at 1:31PM on 02/04/09
I went to Co. twice the opening/soft opening week and it wasn't charred to badly. Taking my dad tonight, will take pics :P
Big B at 3:41PM on 02/04/09
Alan Rickman? The guy who played Snape in the Harry Potter?
What does he know?
Mooner at 9:07PM on 02/05/09
Also, there's not enough cheese on NYC pizza!
/There's not enough ANYTHING, but the lack of cheese is disconcerting.
Mooner at 9:10PM on 02/05/09
Tomato Bread! That's all it is!
Mooner at 9:43PM on 02/05/09
NYC pizza is judged by the crust...less is more as far as toppings go.
dmcavanagh at 7:55PM on 02/06/09
Tomato BREAD!!
Mooner at 10:35PM on 02/06/09