PrintKeste Pizza & Vino: What You Can Expect
If everything goes according to plan, say the partners at Kesté Pizza & Vino, the pizzeria will open Sunday, March 29. Slice got a sneak peak. Sure, you've seen the oven (here and here), but we've got photos of the pizza you might expect there, after the jump.
Meet Roberto Caporuscio
Kesté Pizza & Vino
271 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10014 (b/n Jones and Cornelia streets; map); 212-243-1500; kestepizzeria.com
Getting There: 1 train to Christopher Street-Sheridan Square; A/B/C/D/E/F/V to West 4th Street
Pizza Style: Neapolitan-style pizza made by renown pizzaiolo Roberto Caporuscio
Oven Type: Custom-built wood-fired oven
Price: $9 to $19 for pizza
Notes: Kesté does not take reservations
One of the partners at Kesté is Roberto Caporuscio (above). If you're not a pizza geek, his name may not be familiar. Let's get to know him.
Caporuscio, a former farmer and onetime mozzarella-maker, trained in Naples at the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana pizza school and under Antonio Starita at Starita a Materdei, which came to fame among locals there after it appeared in the 1954 Sophia Loren film L'Oro di Napoli. Caporuscio is the U.S. delegate for the Associazone Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, an organization that seeks to preserve Neapolitan pizza-making traditions and pass them down to a new generation.
Prior to Kesté, Caporuscio was the founding pizzaiolo of A Mano in Ridgewood, New Jersey, which he came to in 2007 after opening and running two restaurants in Pittsburgh—Regina Margherita and Roberto's.
Caporuscio has also consulted on a number of Neapolitan-style pizzerias in the U.S., including places in Colorado, St. Louis, and New Jersey.
The Pizza
One of the dangers of getting sneak peeks is that the pizzaiolo is not under the pressure of a packed dining room and multiple pizza orders. Therefore he has all his wits about him for trial pies. Below is an impression of what you might expect at Kesté. Once open to the public, your mileage may vary.
As you'd expect from a Neapolitan, Caporuscio sources all the crucial ingredients from Italy, from the flour to the tomatoes (San Marzano, of course) to the buffalo mozzarella, which is flash-frozen in Campagna before shipping to New York. (Kesté thaws it overnight in a cold-water bath. In its raw form, there's a noticeable loss of texture, of course, but when it's melted on a pie, it's fine, fine cheese. Incidentally, Caporuscio says the mozz that will go into his Caprese salads will come from one of the neighborhood latticini.)
Yes, the oven you've seen all over the place is of Neapolitan provenance. The stones (oven floor is volcanic stone), tiles, and builders all came over from Italy to get the job done. Caporuscio keeps it going around 1,000 degrees and was constantly adding wood to the fire while we talked. The pizzas cook in about a minute. Turn your back, and the thing's done, as I learned while fiddling with my camera—subsequently missing a shot of the first pie Caporuscio made.
That was fine, because he quickly moved on to making a second Margherita. The prep station here is at the back of the restaurant. The Kesté space is long and narrow, with about 20 two-person tables in the dining area, followed by the prep station; behind it is the oven.
Caporuscio stretches the dough a bit on the marble work surface before moving it to the peel, where he stretches it some more.
The pies are almost in and then right back out. Because of the ultra-fast cook time, Caporuscio seems to work the pizzas a lot more than many of the pizzaioli I've seen, moving it about the oven, rotating it, grabbing it with the peel and holding it off the oven floor and near the flame.
Cheese lovers may be disappointed. The buffalo mozzarella is applied sparingly.
The crust was expertly cooked, and the cornicione was tall and puffy. A look at its cross section shows the airy hole structure—and no evidence of undercooking.
And there's the money shot: The Kesté upskirt.
In all, the crust is typically Neapolitan, which is to say that if you're a fan of firm, crisp crusts, you may be disappointed. The cornicione is crisp and bready, while the middle of the pie is wetter and exhibits significant tip sag. Again, that's basically the Neapolitan way, so you can't judge it by New York-pizza standards.
The crust-sauce-cheese balance was good, though you may have to eat strategically if you want to get bites of all three at once. I found myself accidentally snagging a whole chunk of mozzarella, leaving the rest of my slice barren but for sauce.
The San Marzano sauce is bright and fresh-tasting and naturally a bit sweet, balanced out by just the right amount of sea salt. Speaking of salt, the crust had enough of it that it was flavorful enough on its own once it came down to the puffy lip of the pie. (I've found that a number of pizzerias fail this crucial test; Kesté did not.)
There are about 18 pizzas on the menu, ranging from the traditional (marinara, Margherita, and fuhghi pies) to more ambitious creations (lardo, pecorino Romano, and basil; Italian broccoli rabe, sausage, and smoked mozzarella; prosciutto di Parma, arugula, and grand cru cheese).
Appetizers
I usually don't delve into appetizers on Slice, but there were a number of interesting ones at Kesté.
I watched as Caporuscio made what he said was a very traditional Neapolitan appetizer, a rosette vegetariane ($6). It was interesting to see this item prepared, and it shed a bit of light on the origins of those pepperoni pinwheels you often see in typical New York slice joints. The rosette here is fill with mixed vegetables, no cheese, so it should be vegan-friendly (but don't hold me to that).
I sampled several of the battilocchio del giorno ($6), which were long, rectangular pieces of pizza dough topped with various ingredients. The one above was addictively good, with a sweet cherry tomato paste and buffalo mozzarella. There was also a nice olive-pesto version that omitted cheese.
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24 Comments:
I want to eat all of that. I hope they live up to the hype.
BrianPrestonCampbell at 4:46PM on 03/27/09
Looks good! I'm excited also that the first restaurant he founded was in Ridgewood, NJ, only a few minutes from where I grew up.
LttlMichey at 5:11PM on 03/27/09
@LttlMichey: You didn't read closely enough. He had two restaurants in Pittsburgh before he worked with the Ridgewood NJ pizzeria.
Adam Kuban at 5:21PM on 03/27/09
I had the pizza last night at a friend/ family affair. Full disclosure, I know the guys but still I can assure you Keste' pizzas are spectacular. There are only a handful of places that do pizza outside of Campania the right way, the Neapolitan way, and Keste' is it. Yes it is it. Keste' means this is it in Neapolitan. It is unbelievably good because it is EXACTLY like the pizza in Naples. That is what real pizza is.. Neapolitan. Like it or not. But I bet you will love this. I am not suggesting Keste is one of the very best. I am TELLING you it is. Take it from me. If you are curious, check out my site www.pizzaandcoffee.com
You will know just how serious I am about this.
It is something I have been waiting for for a long time and wish I had the time and money to do one of my own. The flavors, texture, feel, look, smell etc are so right, I got transported to standing in front of aunts' ovens in Salerno eating pizza. I wish Keste' the very best of success.
Gianluca Rottura
www.pizzaandcoffee.com
nextgospel at 7:32PM on 03/27/09
is he cutting his pies? or serving them whole? alla the traditional neopolitan way
southlake98 at 9:55PM on 03/27/09
@southlake98: Cutting them. I'm all for tradition, but the uncut pies drive me crazy.
Adam Kuban at 10:54PM on 03/27/09
@adam kuban
ha ha
hey adam why do they drive you crazy?
i actually like cutting them.
but i can see why one would like the precut.
i just feel cutting it yourself makes it more of an individual, personal experience.
then maybe that would just make ME crazy :0
nextgospel at 11:41PM on 03/27/09
@nextgospel: I wouldn't mind it as much if the pizzas were served on a plate that was actually bigger than the pie itself. It seems that a lot of places serve them on places that are slightly too small or that are exactly the same diameter as the pizza. I'm a klutz already, and when you've got a pie that's overhanging its plate, you don't have a stable surface to work a knife over. Or, if there's a lip on the plate, you end up having to cut on a slightly sloped surface—or shuffle the pie around a bit to cut it. The plates above would have been fine for cutting on, but I've been to a lot of places that serve on tiny plates.
I'd also say that most Americans have learned to eat pizza as a hand food, and the concept of cutting it can be irksome. I know I'm not alone in this, as a number of readers here over the years have groused about the places that serve pies uncut. Most places will cut them upon request, but there are a few who refuse (I'm thinking of at least one in particular), which is annoying.
Adam Kuban at 12:14AM on 03/28/09
That is one good looking pie. And an even better looking cross section. I'd have no problem cutting my own pie as long as they supply me with a pizza cutter. My only concern is regarding their claim of authenticity. Why not just stick with the fior di latte rather than using a frozen product? I prefer it anyway.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 12:30AM on 03/28/09
@adam kuban
yo that was a well thought out response!!
it's amazing cuz i think of stuff like that too!
but people just break my you know what and say i'm neurotic or whatever
haha
yo but i agree with the smaller plates being a pain.
however when they are bigger than the pizza like at Keste
then i love cutting my own
thanks adam
Gianluca
nextgospel at 9:25AM on 03/28/09
Delicious looking pizza !!! Almost tempts me to jump on a plane from here in L.A. to be able to eat one those pies. Thanks much for the great
report and pictures. Now I have to wipe off my screen.
oldsalt at 11:02AM on 03/28/09
I've been a fan of Roberto's since he opened A Mano, and learned quickly that a lot of people don't "get" what he's doing, just as there are people who don't "get" the difference between authentic Chinese food and the stuff you find in the majority of Chinese restaurants. I really hope that New Yorkers will embrace the real Neopolitan pizzas at Keste, because they're fantastic! But this is NOT NYC pizza, as Adam says. This is the REAL. DEAL.
Curlz at 12:33PM on 03/28/09
@curlz I always enjoyed the pies when he was still at A Mano as well. In the name of shameless self-promotion, here are some shots I took when Roberto was still associated with them:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pauliegee/sets/72157603411254722/
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 12:57PM on 03/28/09
No one can compete with Una Pizza Napoletana.... His pies make me feel as if i'm in Naples, and his space is refreshing and clean. Not too mention, the simplicity of the menu works well. A simple pie with the best ingredients money can buy, and nice glass of refreshing citrus toned, floral Greco Di Tufo goes so well with the pies. Keste has competition with places like Joe's, John's in the vicinity. Who in their right minds would pay $4,000 for a class on how to make pizza. In this economy people can barely afford a whole pie.
djai695 at 1:19AM on 03/29/09
for djai695:
I really didn't understand your comment.
You talk of tough times in this economy and then you suggest to go buy UNCOOKED pizza at "una pizza" for 23 USD ????
That's obsecene !!! Come on, 23 USD for water and flour !!!!!
I'm from Naples, and let me tell you, "Una pizza" is way over rated ...
And in regards to those 4,000 USD classes I understand they are for professionals. Spending 4,000 to learn what it can become your future profession does not seem to be that much, don't you think?
I'm sure for 4,000 USD they do not just teach you how to make a pie at home....
Coccodimamma at 10:31AM on 03/29/09
Yeah the classes are an investment for people who want to open their own pizza places. Maybe bring more authentic Neapolitan to other cities or compete here in NYC.... As for UPN, it is very good but a little over-hyped. One of the top Neapolitan pies in the city, sure, but not hands down best. Also, there can be perfection in simplicity but most nights I want a couple of pies and one of them should have some great toppings, something UPN doesn't do.
Big B at 11:46AM on 03/29/09
There is way too much hype for this place. Una Pizza keeps it very simple. I'm entitled to an opinion, and my opinion is that una pizza was one of the first places to start the "Naples" pie trend. They paved the way for places like Co. from Jim Lehey, Keste, motorino. That's all I'm saying, i'm not knocking anyone, but so many restaurants struggle to make it, i just don't see anyone spending $4,000 on a class. That's insane.
djai695 at 1:06PM on 03/29/09
If you're lucky enough to have authentic Neopolitan pizza that you like, good for you, djai! But for folks in places like Pittsburgh who are still crying since Roberto's departure (just as some of us in NJ were sad when he left A Mano, which is now--under Roberto's tutelage--back to making their pies correctly, btw), I bet people in different areas of the country would be thrilled if someone who was serious about learning how to make these pizzas spent $4K before opening a place...
Curlz at 5:18PM on 03/29/09
When it comes to a pizza crust UPN is certainly at the top of the heap. I do agree with Big B regarding the toppings though. Roberta's, Motorino and Fornino have great toppings and for considerably less. Duke Ellington said Take the A Train, I say Take the L Train.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 8:12PM on 03/29/09
Can I solve this for everyone?
Una Pizza Napoletana is awesome. What Tony did was pioneering.
Keste' is also awesome. What Roberto is doing is pioneering.
They do not conflict BUT compliment each other.
Look, in Naples, Da Michele, one of the best pizzerias doesn't even use Mozzarella di Bufala, but cow's milk (Fior di Latte). That may be shocking to some but he still is a master in his own right.
Again, Una Pizza Napoletana and Keste' do NOT conflict, they compliment each other. That's a good thing. Full disclosure, I am writing a article for the paper I write for (The Epoch Times) and it COINCIDENTALLY talks about only these 2 very people!!! I am their wine contributor so we shall see if they take the food one. Anyway, as a business man, if I wanted to pay $4,000 to learn the right way to make pizza, as an expense it is cheap compared to other costs and when you factor in the long run, it's pennies really. It's not even half a month's rent for a commercial space in Manhattan. Come on now! The only thing that matters along with the knowledge is PASSION. And that will separate any pizzaiolo from the rest. Are We Satisfied? Hey I am just happy I can stuff my face when there's unfortunately so much hunger out there! take care guys. And I'll keep you posted on my pizza article.
Gianluca Rottura
http://www.pizzaandcoffee.com/
nextgospel at 9:19PM on 03/29/09
I've seen those little sausage and spinach rolls at John's pizza on 44th Street. My question is how come John's pizza in the West Village doesn't serve these as well.
djai695 at 8:26PM on 03/31/09
A miracle happened last night. My son's fight got into LGA ten minutes early at 9:49PM. That gave us plenty of time to get to the Village, find a spot on the street and head over to Keste. In short, if you like a nice soft, moist Napoletana crust you will love Keste. You can check the photos at the link below to see what we ordered. In addition to some very good pies, I was impressed with the fact that Roberto was manning the oven along with another pizzaiolo the whole time we were there. And although I ached desperately for a dimmer switch, the place had a truely authentic Napoletana atmosphere the placed still packed at midnight, and half of the clientel were speaking Italian. Here's 31,000 words for you:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pauliegee/sets/72157616620832116/
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 8:27AM on 04/11/09
To this native New Yorker and pizza lover, this place is overrated. At 6 PM on a weekday with only two other tables occupied, we were rushed through our meal. Our waiter ignored me and only addressed my date. The pizza was good, but I won't return. I felt a sense of "Euro-snobbery" and will stick to our local heroes like Patsy's of East Harlem, Di Fara, etc. They can take their logo and...
efnefn at 4:28PM on 05/30/09
I live in Pittsburgh and frequented Roberto's. My sister lives in Brooklyn and I am planning on stopping into Keste the next time I visit. I can taste it already. Yummy!!!
mazie97 at 12:37PM on 06/05/09