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La Villa's Focaccia di Nonna

20090317-lavilla-pie.jpg

La Villa Park Slope

261 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11215 (at Garfield Place; map); 718-499-9888; lavillaparkslope.com
The Skinny: The focaccia di nonna has a crisp-chewy crust with fresh mozzarella layered under garlicky, crushed San Marzano tomatoes
Pizza Style: New York-Neapolitan
Oven Type: Wood Stone gas-assist wood-fired oven
Price: Small round (reviewed), $14. Large thin-crust Sicilian, $24; large round, $24; small deep-dish, $14

There's an old saying about defecation in the area in which one dines. It's not to be done.

That's what's kept me from really going into detail about La Villa in Park Slope. It's about half a block from my home, and I eat there frequently.

The nonpizza food there has always been good—and the portions are insane. You can pretty much feed two people from one dish or take the rest home for a second meal.

But the pizza, as good as it's been, has never really done it for me. I figured out why this weekend.

It's not like it was ever a question why my pies weren't always optimal examples of the pizza arts. Ninety-nine percent of the time, I get them as take-out and eat them at home (I like to watch trashy TV while I eat). The steam from the box utterly destroys the crispness and springiness of the crust.

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The La Villa upskirt.

When I eat in the dining room there, for various reasons, I order nonpizza dishes 99 percent of the time. The last time I was there, I went with the focaccia di nonna, a pizza with homemade mozzarella, crushed San Marzano tomatoes, basil, fresh garlic, and Tuscan olive oil.

It's excellent when fresh from the oven. The crust is crisp, springy, and chewy. The fresh mozzarella is layered under a generous covering of garlicky tomatoes and remains creamy and melty.

The specimen I sampled Friday night was eye-opening, and I think I've got a new routine. I'm ordering and eating at the bar from now on. And I'll take the remaining slices home. This particular pie keeps well. The juicy tomato topping keeps it from drying out in fridge, so it serves up cold brilliantly. I can always eat the leftovers in front of the boob tube.

13 Comments:

I was impressed with La Villa last year - check it out --

http://www.ubereater.com/2008/01/from-park-slope-to-pamplona-and-some.html

The Ubereater
www.ubereater.com

mmm... i need to go. man, i've walked by that thing for the past three years and never walked into it. haha. it never seemed like a place that did take-out, but the leftover routine sounds solid.

thanks for this adam, I always pass by this place, but never go in. I'll have to make this my next stop when the inevitable pizza craving hits me.
http://always-eating.blogspot.com/

My saliva glands just had a moment.

I live close to the one in Howard Beach, I agree that their regular pizza is not anything great to write about, but their foccacia di nonna is something extremely different. You can taste the fresh ingredients which makes this pizza a far cry from any ordinary slice.

I also live very close to La Villa, and my boyfriend and I were always deterred by the bright lighting and Olive Garden-esque look of the place. We ordered a pie for delivery about a year ago and were seriously unimpressed. Finally ate at the restaurant last week, and had an awesome mushroom & caramelized onion square pizza (special), massive Tre Colori salad, and impeccable service. I'll also vouch that it makes great leftovers.

Ubereater - great review, just a friendly note it's sauce not "red gravy" ;)

LOL

ah, you're a park sloper. i've liked la villa over the years; although i found the DOC pizza a bit pretentious in billing, overall the place never fails to satisfy. i also like anthony's a lot too. a friend of mine always raved about Pinos La Forchetta on 2nd, but i wasn't too impressed.

have you guys ever had anyone in NJ review the Brooklyn Coal Oven Pizza mini-chain over here? i had it once in hackensack and found it pretty good-- it's not quite at the level of the NYC greats, but it's about on par with the angelo's and patsy's chains in NYC. That level of course still puts it above most other places otherwise in the Northern NJ suburbs.

@pizzasnob I've been to the Brooklyn Coal Burning joints in Hackensack and Ridgewood. They lay claim to the Grimaldi family lineage and I'd say that they come pretty close. As you said, it's very good for North Jersey. When in Ridgewood, I'd chose the Napoletana pies at A. Mano over the coal pies though. And when in Hackensack, I'd rather go to White Manna for some serious sliders.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

I've been to La Villa a few times. Pizza delivery here is not worth it (the pizza arrives soggy). Dining in the restaurant is 10x better. Pasta portions are also huge!

Adam, I live in the Slope too and have enjoyed many a La Villa pizza. I would order it far more than my go-to (Roma) but the prices, especially the toppings, are way too high. I think they make a great product, but I also think they're a rip off.

Hmm, well read your article and tried the grandma pizza tonight. Pretty good, but I've got to say that the grandma from tomato and basil on 4th avenue is better. Has a much more concentrated flavor, and I want to say they put some Parmesan on there as well for a nice sharp touch.

I always recommend to my readers to never judge a place once you remove it from the store. Once in the cardboard, it is ruined!

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