From left: St. Marks 2 Bros. Pizza, 542 Ninth Ave, New York NY 10018 (at West 40th Street; map). 99¢ Fresh Pizza, 569 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10036 (at 41st Street; map). Click all photos for larger versions. These and all subsequent photos feature 2 Bros. on left and 99¢ on right.
Fig. 1: A side-by-side comparison of St. Marks 2 Bros. Pizza and 99¢ Fresh Pizza slices.
Yesterday afternoon, Zach Brooks of Midtown Lunch issued a challenge via blog and tweet. He claims he doesn't know much about pizza and wanted my opinion on the hot new pizza rivalry occurring within the realm of his blog's coverage.
But first, some history: Just west of the Port Authority Bus Terminal on the northwest corner of 41st Street and Ninth Avenue is 99¢ Fresh Pizza. This bargain pizzeria has been king of the cheap slices for about three years—eventually opening up a branch on 43rd Street and Third Avenue, which in turn inspired other pizzeria-delis in the area to drop slice prices to a dollar. While 99¢ Fresh Pizza has only two locations, it has claimed the majority of dollar-slice mindshare in this town, thanks to its first-mover status and the fact that its cheapassity is built into its name.
But last summer, upstart buckslice joint St. Marks 2 Bros. Pizza opened in the East Village and by mid September had already branched out to Chelsea. And yesterday, 2 Bros. pretty much brought the noise straight to the castle walls, opening a location on the southeast corner of 40th Street and Ninth Avenue.
Whose cheap-ass dollar slice would reign supreme? I took up Zach's challenge late yesterday afternoon in order to find out. The results, after the jump.
The Prices Are the Same
From left: St. Marks 2 Bros. Pizza, 99¢ Fresh Pizza.
Let's get this out of the way. The prices are the same. At some point 99¢ Fresh Pizza had been charging tax, so your slice actually cost $1.07. As of yesterday's visit, the slices at 99¢ were an even $1, tax included. (Yes, the logic of calling your place 99¢ Fresh Pizza and charging a dollar is flawed, but 2nd Ave. Deli is no longer on Second Avenue, is it?)
At both places, $2.75 (tax included) gets you two slices and a can of soda.
Price Winner: Tie. (Although for a real tie-breaker, I probably should have noted the selection of beverages, as a choice of Dr Pepper at 99¢ might push people like me over to its side.)
Anyway, with price out of the way, let's get to flavor and relative value.
Thickness, Slice Size
Look, if you're eating dollar pizza, you're pretty much broke, drunk, or hungry and out of options. So flavor's not a huge deal. Operating on this assumption, let's look at fill-factor and slice size.
The 2 Bros. pizza was easily thicker—both at the end crust and throughout the slice—and more filling than the 99¢ slice. Beyond that, however, you can see that the 2 Bros. slice is more bready and has better hole structure in the crust.
As far as surface area goes, just eyeballing the two slices in the side-by-side comparison shot (see Fig. 1 at top), it looks like both slices are about the same width and cut at similar angles. But 2 Bros. has the edge—it's longer, overhanging its paper plate.
Size Winner: 2 Bros.
The Upskirt Shots
You can see that both pizzas are baked on a screen. The dimpled crosshatching gives it away.
I'm actually giving 99¢ Fresh Pizza a leg up right now. The upskirt pictured here (above right) is from the second slice I grabbed from the place. The first slice exhibited significant tip sag.
Both slices are fairly close in terms of crust color, though again, 99¢ benefits from a second round; its first example was pretty blond.
Crust Winner: 2 Bros.
Though the upskirts tell a similar tale, the proof is in the biting. The crust at 2 Bros. was crisp and bready. Sure, it's not great or all that flavorful, but if you're looking for a cheap-ass approximation of what a good New York–style slice is supposed to be, this comes closer to the crisp-chewy ideal. The crust at 99FP was doughy and limp yet somehow flaky—it was like what I'd imagine would happen if you let a frozen pizza thaw out completely before baking it only minimally.
Overall Flavor
Overall, the 2 Bros. pizza had a better flavor than the 99¢ Fresh Pizza slice. While the 99FP slice was better balanced in terms of crust-sauce-cheese ratio, that's not necessarily a good thing here, since that balance allows you to taste the sauce. It's flavored heavily with what tastes like powdered garlic—acrid and almost metallic-tasting. When scraped away on its own, the 2 Bros. sauce is bland but at least does not assault your tongue.
@JudgeFudge: 2 Bros. wasn't bad. It gets the job done. Would I go out of my way for it? No. But if I had $3 and worked in the area, I'd grab the 2 Bros. deal over a couple of dirty-water dogs any day.
Wow. I am so sorely disappointed by the verdict of this article. My brother and I took it upon ourselves yesterday to experience the ultimate taste test, both being avid fans of 99¢ Fresh for almost 3 years. But we were ready to give these pizza joints the fair showdown they deserve. So we, too, broke down the evaluation into specific criteria:
1. Heat: 99¢ Fresh clearly won out here: hot and fresh from the oven, just like its name promises. 2 Bros. was disappointing in that it came out of a heated glass box (a.k.a. a "hot soft pretzle box of nastiness" as my brother called it), from a pie that might have come out of the oven 5-10 minutes prior. I don't like my pizza luke warm. It's either gotta be piping hot, or next-day refrigerator cold—for breakfast.
2. Crispness/crust: 99¢ again takes the cake. The heat helped the crust stay crisp, cruchy and delicious, not chewy and stale like 2 Bros.'s.
3. Flavor: 2 Bros. has your typical NY Pizza flavor, which, don't get me wrong, is great. But, 99¢ Fresh has a unique taste that will keep me loyal (among other reasons listed here).
4. Freshness: I just have to say, it's all in the name, as I mentioned above. No question.
5. Condiments: Ok, I'll admit I never tried hot sauce on my pizza prior to my first experience at 99¢ Fresh, where hot sauce in a red ketchup squeeze bottle is a staple, but I grew to love it, to need it. Plus parmesan cheese. Unfortunately, 2 Bros. only had your typical pizza condiments of oregano, garlic powder and red pepper flakes, which are also available at 99¢ Fresh (a full arsenal of condiments). So again, 2 Bros. loses on this front with it's half-assed array. Sorry guys.
6. Setting: It's no question that 2 Bros has a better space, BUT THEY DON'T USE IT. Only two "cocktail" tables. Otherwise, it's standing room only, just like 99¢ Fresh.
If you're looking for your generically average slice of pizza for the low price of $1, then 2 Bros. is for you. But if you're looking for an authentic, crispy, fantastically fresh and gooey slice of awesomeness, stick with the Hell's Kitchen/Port Authority original, 99¢ Fresh, the best.
I have been working on 38th and 9th for 8 years now, and for 5 of those years I was loyal to the old dollar slice joint on 36th and 8th (anyone remember that one, those guys were hard core, but awesome). SIDE NOTE: I once saw the guy who ran that joint come to the street and throw down with a guy who took a slice then didnt want to pay. i mean those guys were hard core.
back to slice challenge. 99 cent is hands down a better slice. i have tried 2 brothers 2 times now, giving them the benefit of the doubt, and both times, the slice they gave me out of their HOT PRETZEL BOX OF NASTINESS, was blah. i mean edible but nothing like the 99cent slice.
99cent condiments are awesome, the hot sauce and Parmesan combination is ILL. ANOTHER SIDE NOTE: 99 cent was being a little cheap in taking away the parmesan for a few months before 2 bros came to down, and i gave them shit for that on every visit, but in their defense they are serving a mad cheap slice.
also in case anyone was wondering they deliver those bad boys at $8 a pie, damn!
2 bros, in my opinion is just jumping on a band wagon, and their fancy sign, expensive rent, and "i want a peice of the pie" attitude will quickly die out in the one remaining hard core part of hells kitchen.
99cent, all I ask is that when 2 brothers dies in the next year, you dont take away the Parmesan again ;)....promise?
99cent Fresh phone number is
calling them up for a pie right now :) thought I would share the phone number, since you cant see it on google street view as i so often try to find it.212-268-1461
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12 Comments:
Maybe I'm just hungry for lunch, but the 2 Bros slice looks pretty tasty, actually.
JudgeFudge at 1:37PM on 04/29/09
@JudgeFudge: 2 Bros. wasn't bad. It gets the job done. Would I go out of my way for it? No. But if I had $3 and worked in the area, I'd grab the 2 Bros. deal over a couple of dirty-water dogs any day.
Adam Kuban at 1:42PM on 04/29/09
Amazing. It's everything I dreamed it would be and more...
Zach Brooks at 2:47PM on 04/29/09
props to 99 cent fresh pizza for looking like something around since the early 1980s... otherwise 2 bros. looks worth a try if i'm even in the area
santoslhalper at 3:57PM on 04/29/09
nice, now i know where to go for lunch!
foodinmouth at 4:04PM on 04/29/09
Have you entered "cheapassity," into Style Bites yet?
Joe DiStefano at 6:12PM on 04/29/09
@Joe: Not yet!
Adam Kuban at 6:23PM on 04/29/09
"Port Authority Bus Terminal" just screams "Good Eats!".
Yikes.
Mooner at 8:30PM on 04/29/09
Wow. I am so sorely disappointed by the verdict of this article. My brother and I took it upon ourselves yesterday to experience the ultimate taste test, both being avid fans of 99¢ Fresh for almost 3 years. But we were ready to give these pizza joints the fair showdown they deserve. So we, too, broke down the evaluation into specific criteria:
1. Heat: 99¢ Fresh clearly won out here: hot and fresh from the oven, just like its name promises. 2 Bros. was disappointing in that it came out of a heated glass box (a.k.a. a "hot soft pretzle box of nastiness" as my brother called it), from a pie that might have come out of the oven 5-10 minutes prior. I don't like my pizza luke warm. It's either gotta be piping hot, or next-day refrigerator cold—for breakfast.
2. Crispness/crust: 99¢ again takes the cake. The heat helped the crust stay crisp, cruchy and delicious, not chewy and stale like 2 Bros.'s.
3. Flavor: 2 Bros. has your typical NY Pizza flavor, which, don't get me wrong, is great. But, 99¢ Fresh has a unique taste that will keep me loyal (among other reasons listed here).
4. Freshness: I just have to say, it's all in the name, as I mentioned above. No question.
5. Condiments: Ok, I'll admit I never tried hot sauce on my pizza prior to my first experience at 99¢ Fresh, where hot sauce in a red ketchup squeeze bottle is a staple, but I grew to love it, to need it. Plus parmesan cheese. Unfortunately, 2 Bros. only had your typical pizza condiments of oregano, garlic powder and red pepper flakes, which are also available at 99¢ Fresh (a full arsenal of condiments). So again, 2 Bros. loses on this front with it's half-assed array. Sorry guys.
6. Setting: It's no question that 2 Bros has a better space, BUT THEY DON'T USE IT. Only two "cocktail" tables. Otherwise, it's standing room only, just like 99¢ Fresh.
If you're looking for your generically average slice of pizza for the low price of $1, then 2 Bros. is for you. But if you're looking for an authentic, crispy, fantastically fresh and gooey slice of awesomeness, stick with the Hell's Kitchen/Port Authority original, 99¢ Fresh, the best.
jessc at 5:24PM on 04/30/09
jessc is 100% spot on. couldnt agree more.
I have been working on 38th and 9th for 8 years now, and for 5 of those years I was loyal to the old dollar slice joint on 36th and 8th (anyone remember that one, those guys were hard core, but awesome). SIDE NOTE: I once saw the guy who ran that joint come to the street and throw down with a guy who took a slice then didnt want to pay. i mean those guys were hard core.
back to slice challenge. 99 cent is hands down a better slice. i have tried 2 brothers 2 times now, giving them the benefit of the doubt, and both times, the slice they gave me out of their HOT PRETZEL BOX OF NASTINESS, was blah. i mean edible but nothing like the 99cent slice.
99cent condiments are awesome, the hot sauce and Parmesan combination is ILL. ANOTHER SIDE NOTE: 99 cent was being a little cheap in taking away the parmesan for a few months before 2 bros came to down, and i gave them shit for that on every visit, but in their defense they are serving a mad cheap slice.
also in case anyone was wondering they deliver those bad boys at $8 a pie, damn!
2 bros, in my opinion is just jumping on a band wagon, and their fancy sign, expensive rent, and "i want a peice of the pie" attitude will quickly die out in the one remaining hard core part of hells kitchen.
99cent, all I ask is that when 2 brothers dies in the next year, you dont take away the Parmesan again ;)....promise?
mikespad at 11:36AM on 05/15/09
99cent Fresh phone number is
calling them up for a pie right now :) thought I would share the phone number, since you cant see it on google street view as i so often try to find it.212-268-1461
mikespad at 11:47AM on 05/15/09
@Slicemeister Have you considered establishing a Shill Hall of Shame?
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 12:40PM on 05/15/09