New York Times' Frank Bruni on Co. Company

Posted by Adam Kuban, April 8, 2009 at 3:53 PM

The paper's restaurant critic gives one star to Jim Lahey's Co. Company pizzeria. He mostly likes it but has some criticism that's fairly accurate:

But he could indeed improve upon his pizzas somewhat. Although the best of them are outstanding and all pack the pleasures of a serious crust with serious blisters—Mr. Lahey uses an oven that generates heat in excess of 900 degrees—he hasn’t yet nailed the toppings. It’s as if he’s too focused on, and maybe too confident about, what lies beneath. A pizzaiolo-come-lately, he needs to sweat the cheese and the rest of it a little more.

If you know what to order, you'll have a good pizza there. I'd recommend staying away from the béchamel pies. Mr. Bruni also says:

And those blisters sometimes multiply and spread into jarringly ashy, sooty territory. What’s a desirable sear and what’s no better than cinders? A few of the many pizzas I had at Co. left me wondering.

Co.

230 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10001 (at West 24th Street; map)
212-243-1105
co-pane.com

Related: Co. Company Pizzeria Soft Opening Photo Gallery

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Tags: Chelsea, Co., Company, Manhattan, New York Times, NYC, reviews