Slice
The 'New Yorker' on Co. Company
While everyone else is talking about the four new pizzerias that opened in the last ten days, the New Yorker looks at Co. Company in this week's issue. For the most part I share writer Lila Byock's take on the pizza there. She loves the Boscaiola pie (mushroom, onion, sausage, chile peppers) and eschews the Santo pie ("what's with all the béchamel?") that many other (wrong-headed) critics and food bloggers have praised.
But she sets up a bit of a straw man, creating some sort of schism between two supposed sects of pizza-lovers:
There are the ascetics, who demand pies as thin and brittle as Communion wafers, versus the libertines, who prefer something they can sink their teeth into. If anyone can persuade the quarrellers to break bread, it’s surely Jim Lahey, of Co.
Where are these people demanding crusts as thin and brittle as Communion wafers? I think what most pizza purists agree on is perfecting a Margherita that's properly balanced and has a great crust. If a pizzaiolo can do that, we're willing to grant him or her some leeway when it comes to more inventive toppings.
Just not béchamel.
Co.
230 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10001 (at West 24th Street; map)
212-243-1105
co-pane.com