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Alan Richman Names Top 25 Pizzas in the U.S.

Chicago Upstart Great Lake Has Country's Best Pizza

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Alan Richman (left) and Lucali proprietor-pizzaiolo Mark Iacono (right) hold a copy of the June 2009 issue of "GQ" in front of Iacono's Lucali (the No. 2 pizza in the U.S.) at press event celebrating the story's May 19 publication. The issue contains Richman's "American Pie," a list of the top 25 pizzerias in the country.

In the June issue of GQ, food writer extraordinaire Alan Richman ranks the top 25 pizzas in the U.S. after visiting what he considers the top 10 pizza cities in the country.

The story is much too monumental to really do justice here. (Richman sampled 386 pizzas at 109 different pizzerias.) Go read it for yourself on GQ.com—or do yourself a favor and buy the magazine on the newsstand. It comes out tomorrow (May 19). For pizza freaks, this one really is worth having in print. Here are the salient points:

Italians Do Pizza Wrong; the U.S. Gets It Oh So Right

I totally agree with Richman here:

Pizza was created by the Italians—or maybe by the Greeks, who brought it to Naples, but let’s not pile on the bad news. Right now it justly belongs to us. We care more about it. We eat more of it, and unlike the Italians, we appreciate it at dinner, at lunch, and at breakfast, when we have it cold, standing up, to make hangovers go away. Italians don’t really understand pizza. They think of it as knife-and-fork food, best after the sun goes down.

Pizza isn’t as fundamental to Italy as it is to America. Over there, it plays a secondary role to pasta, risotto, and polenta. To be candid, I think they could do without it. Not us. Over here, it’s one of the few foreign foods we’ve embraced wholeheartedly, made entirely our own.

Oh, snap. Suck it, Italy. [More analysis, after the jump.]

Richman's List Skews Heavily Toward Newcomers

It's a refreshing list. I'm a guy who reads far too much about pizza (is that even possible?), and as such, I'm tired of seeing the same old boring Top X-many lists held down by the same old stalwarts in NYC, New Haven, and Chicago. Richman's list has just enough old-school places on it to lend it credibility and ward off any accusations of blatant pot-stirring.

The top 10, for instance: Great Lake (Chicago), Lucali (New York City), Pizzeria Delfina (San Francisco), Pizzeria Bianco (Phoenix), Bob & Timmy's (Providence, R.I.), Sally's Apizza (New Haven), Tomato Pie (Los Angeles), Co. Company (New York City), Tacconelli's (Philadelphia), and Tottono's (Brooklyn).

See what I mean?

Some Heavy Hitters and Popular Favorites Are Notably Absent

Not on Richman's list: Di Fara (Brooklyn), Mozza (L.A.), Franny's (Brooklyn), Spacca Napoli (Chicago), Pizzaiolo (Oakland), Cheese Board Collective (Berkeley).

Or they're waaaaaay down the list: Perennial NYC favorite Una Pizza Napoletana just barely squeezes in at No. 25. Then again, given Richman's diatribe against Italian-style pizza, this ranking isn't surprising—Anthony Mangieri strives to make a pie that's more Naples than Napoli. And maybe he succeeds; Richman says, "I believe it's more enjoyable than almost any pizza in Naples—maybe in all of Italy." Oh, snap. Suck it, Italy.

List Ferrets Out Some Lesser Known Pizzas

I don't know if I should admit this, but of the 25, I had not heard of the following: Bob & Timmy's (Providence, R.I.), Luigi's "the Original" (Harrison Township, Mich.), and Niki's (Detroit).

And the following are places that I've heard about but that don't seem to get a lot of love in the national pizza press: Tomato Pie (L.A.), Tarry Lodge (Port Chester, New York), Buddy's (Detroit), and coal-burner Tomatoes Apizza (Farmington Hills, Mich.).

The List

At the press event I went to that celebrated the story's release, GQ folks had a cheat sheet that laid out the Top 25, sans descriptions, for ease of comparison. I'm going to give you it here, but I absolutely urge you to get this issue if you really care about pizza. There are only a few magazine or newspaper articles that have made it onto my list of seminal pizza reading material, and this is one. That said, here is the list for your perusal:

01. Great Lake (Chicago)
02. Lucali (Brooklyn, NYC)
03. Pizzeria Delfina (San Francisco)
04. Pizzeria Bianco (Phoenix)
05. Bob & Timmy's (Providence, R.I.)
06. Sally's Apizza (New Haven, Conn.)
07. Tomato Pie (Los Angeles)
08. Co. Company (Manhattan, NYC)
09. Tacconelli's (Philadelphia)
10. Totonno's (Brooklyn, NYC)
11. Tarry Lodge (Port Chester, N.Y.)
12. Frank Pepe (New Haven, Conn.)
13. Luigi's "the Original" (Harrison Township, Mich.)
14. Gialina (San Francisco)
15. Buddy's (Detroit)
16. Antica Pizzeria (Marina Del Ray, Calif.)
17. A16 (San Francisco)
18. Al Forno (Providence, R.I.)
19. Galleria Umberto (Boston)
20. Famous Joe's (Manhattan, NYC)
21. Tomatoes Apizza (Farmington Hills, Mich.)
22. Osteria (Philadelphia)
23. Santarpio's (Boston)
24. Niki's (Detroit)
25. Una Pizza Napoletana (Manhattan, NYC)

What's your take? Is Richman right on or did he miss something?

Related

106 Comments:

is it just me, or is someone else surprised that the Motor City area scored THREE places on the top 25? i think that's pretty awesome.

Really? REALLY?

@foodinmouth: Read Richman's supplemental blog post on the Top 10 Pizza Cities in the U.S.: "3. Detroit. No city has more consistently satisfying pies than Detroit. No city executes its particular style, in this case the square Sicilian, as flawlessly as Detroit. Hard to go wrong wherever you eat, although a hopeless local peculiarity is burying the pepperoni under the sauce."

Osteria in Philly? Come on. The best pizza I've ever had in the U.S. is DiFara, and I've eaten Osteria a dozen times. It's pretty good, but Alan. As Joy on the view would say," So what! Who cares?"

The title of this for some reason made me think of Alan Rickman (of Severus Snape fame) reviewing pizzas. An entertaining mental image, to say the least.

'Pizza' makes me think of the Chinese language; there are so many dialects, most of them incomprehensible to other speakers, that a list of the best 'pizza' is certain to disappoint. In Chicago alone, you can have deep-dish, tavern-style, stuffed, neapolitan, as well as Pizza Hut or Domino's...they have nothing in common except bread, tomatoes and cheese.

Think of it this way...you can have a ham sandwich, piled high with thinly-cut ham, american cheese and yellow mustard with pickles on a fresh kaiser roll, or a panino with Jamon Iberico with Emmenthal and dijon...both are just ham and cheese sandwiches. Which is better? Who's to judge?

I always consider New Haven number two to New York. New York and New Haven are head and shoulders above all other places.

Glad that New Haven made the list.

Where's Apizza Scholls? Did he not make it to Portland?

Well...Great Lakes is my favorite place in Chicago and now I'll never, ever get back there. It took 2 hours to get a pizza last time I went. Now I might as well camp out in front of the shop the day before.

It absolutely deserves to be ranked up there. Top notch crust that I've never experienced before.

Congrats!

WTF do I start? How about with if Great Lake was so good, why didn't he have his party there instead of Lucali? Congratulations to Mark. Not only are you the Prince of the City, you're the King of the Country, Cuz.

The article reminds me that I need to make that long overdue ride up I95 to Beantown to go back to Galleria Umberto. And along the way stop at Al Forno in Providence. That friggin' thing looks awesome. There's way too much more to comment on in that article positive and negative, so I'm gonna stop right here and finish by saying that contrary to AR's contention, there is no dark side to pizza. It's straight out of heaven.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

lucali?
number 2?

really??

what is Co. Company? I thought I had been to all the NYC pizza places...oh well, something new to try

there's no way to justify Co.'s margherita being so high on the list.

@foodinmouth & Alan Kuban - Actually there are 4 spots on the list given to Metro Detroit area pizzerias - Luigi's, Buddy's, Tomatoes Apizza and Niki's. The interesting thing is that there is a great story behind Buddy's pizza and a cross-town rival, Louie's. I dont know specific details, but Louie and Buddy started out together years ago and had a disagreement where one of them took half of their proprietary, specially forged cast-iron pans and started over across town! Both are amazing pizzas!

I live in North Carolina now and nobody understands when I pine for Detroit Pizza!!

Buffalo....he should come to Buffalo....there's a pizza place on nearly every corner...and most of them are good!

Richman left Grimaldi's (Brooklyn, NY) off the list? He is a Philistine.

Santarpio's is so so so overated.

I suspect Great Lake would have been to small for a party.

Awful article, awful list.

Writer gets hung-up on his dislike of Chicago deep dish, fails to note that there are 1000 other pizza places which serve pizza just like his #1 choice, then proceeds to select *5* California pizza places to accompany the single Chicago selection. Rubbish.

Chicago & NYC establishments should occupy 20 of 25 slots on a list like this, minimum.

forget the pizza. i want to eat christian bale up.

No DeLorenzo's in Trenton/Robbinsville??? Did he even eat there?

Where are the Washington, DC places!?

@robert40 You might be right. It say here they have a communal table for six:

http://leisureblogs.chicagotribune.com/thestew/2008/04/first-bite-grea.html

And those pie toppings sound pretty interesting. Most revealing though is this statement:

"Lessins, a former scientist/hydrologist/interior designer/architect, makes each pizza himself—one by one, by hand."

I like that guy already. But Lucali's pies and atmosphere still rule. And speaking of atmosphere, Mr. Richman missed the coolest pizzeria around:

www.robertaspizza.com

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

@gastronommeg That Jennifer Aniston pie on page one has my vote.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

@pizzaexpert You have a pizza review site?

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

Richman is a victim of the "He who is without sin, cast the first stone." He rants on about pizza snobs who extol buffalo mozzarella, or about anchovies having no business on a pizza, then he dares to go on about some fu-fu places in Rhode Island (spinach and walnuts?), Philadelphia and San Francisco. He freely admits that plenty of people told them of their best/favorite place and he ignored them saying "No, sorry, your pizza is no good." Why? Because you say so? Come on! This is a "Best of Alan Richman" list, not a 25 best pizzas list. John Andrew Walsh is correct: Richman is a Philastine.

@robert40: You must not have been to Lucali. It's hardly spacious (though I believe they either have opened or are about to open a back garden).

@hrwalf: I totally agree. When I went there, Co. was downright mediocre and overpriced, considering the stingy application of cheese.

I'm glad Lucali did well (except for what that's going to do for the wait time); it's one of my favorites, though it's not as consistently outstanding as Di Fara (which frankly didn't need any help from Richman).

Sigh....Another pizza list written by someone who completely dismisses deep dish and stuffed pizza. Even with that oversight, I actually think Richman did some good work on this one - it was quite a bit more thought out than the nonsense he wrote last year comparing New York and Chicago hot dogs. That said, I can't disagree with what Mad Ernie just wrote.

@Paulie: "How about with if Great Lake was so good, why didn't he have his party there instead of Lucali?" Seems like you are implying that Richman doesn't actually believe his rankings. Saying things like that make you sound like pizzaexpert, and I don't think that's your goal. I think the most likely reasons for holding the event at Lucali's are 1) Richman lives in New York, 2) GQ is based in New York, and 3) events in New York tend to get more coverage since most national media is based in New York.

@foodinmouth: Interesting to see that Tomatoes Apizza in Farmington Hillis, MI made the list. When we lived in Ann Arbor, we'd drive 40 miles each way to eat there, and even at $4 a gallon it was worth the fuel.

We first read about the place here on Slice! Our review of Tomatoes (and Silvio's in Ann Arbor) is at
http://www.passion-4-pizza.com/michigan_pizza.html

Erm... yeah, did he just completely ignore the entirety of the Pacific NW? I've not yet explored all of the pizza offerings in all of the major US cities, but I've yet to have pizza better than my 2 faves in Portland, OR. And yes, I've been to the major places in NYC. I really dislike lists like this ("Best in the US!") because it's very unlikely that *anyone* has gone to the length to hit up the best, say, 3 pizza places in every large city (incl suburbs) - it would just take too long. So these types of lists are skewed crazily anyhow. So be it, but I'll take it with a grain of salt.

@Daniel As you can now see, after doing a little research I corrected myself. I'm actually now very curious about the place and the owner/pizzaiolo. Occasionally I can be a little hasty when I'm trying to post comments while attending to my duties as a quality assurance engineer.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

At any rate, you got to believe that Great Lake Pizzeria will explode with popularity now. That place only has 8 seats. There is going to be an insane wait time now (even longer than it is now).

Hardly spacious but they top a communal table for six. LOL

I just may have to go on another pizza journey to visit Great Lake. It captured my interest from the moment I read the owners were influenced by the man himself from the desert sun.

Getting customers has not been a problem for Great Lake, but it definitely will be more crowded now. That said, the Tribune article that claimed there is only room for six is just wrong. Inside, there is one communal table that seats 8 and there are three more tables that seat 2 people each. Also, there is going to be (in fact, there may already be) outdoor seating this summer.

Bah. St. Louis. Ignored again. I know the provel has convinced people the city's the pizza antichrist, but I swear we've got good pies here so long as you avoid the ones who think velveeta is a cheese.

O my God...When I saw this article I flipped..Im off to Tomato Pie for lunch...I never knew how lucky I was to be a pizza maniac living in LA..will be back with report.

BAR pizza in New Haven, CT can hang with the best. Excellent pies. Maybe it is overlooked because it is a bar, nightclub and brew pub all in one.

Ciao, eh!

"Oh, Snap. Suck it, Italy." Just made my morning.

Good to see Tacconelli's getting its due.

"Over here, it’s one of the few foreign foods we’ve embraced wholeheartedly, made entirely our own..."

Which is why he insists on a strict Neapolitan model and completely ignores deep dish styles, which are truly an example of making it our own.

But we in Chicago are used to that-- every year somebody comes from out of town to tell us we don't know nothin' about pizza, except what we learned in Phoenix. Yeah, okay, whatever.

What a strange list--wild nettles, broccoli rabe, and squash each carry their pizzeria to glory, but anchovies and cornmeal in the crust are too far out-there for consideration? I suppose the intention is more like a "top 25 pizzas in the US to brag about liking to strangers at a cocktail party".

(I suppose I should say that I really do like Great Lake a lot-- I just don't think pizza is only one thing, and that not getting Chicago deep dish as a style is not a virtue, as so many food writers seem to think it is. Some days, only a two-inch-thick spinach from Art of Pizza will do.)

there are so MANY things i could say but i don't think there would be enough space here. just a few things:
1) i totally respect richman and he seems like a nice guy but i RESPECTFULLY disagree with much of what he is saying....
...and keep in mind, these are opinions, not facts
2)he says pizza is not as big in italy as it is in America?
yes in a sense he is right...BUT we must consider that
a) since there is NO such thing as Italian cuisine, the other 19 of the 20 Italian regions have different foods so there is no need to eat pizza all the time like they do in Campania and Naples.
b) each italian town, not city or region, its own cuisines. add the towns, then cities, then regions, and you get the most DIVERSE culinary gathering in the world. in america, bad food, junk food etc makes up a HUGE chunk of our diet SO IT IS EASIER for americans to be crazier about pizza than Italians. THEY HAVE LESS CHOICES...and def less good choices at that. Richman even admits that pizza plays a secondary role to the other foods.
c) i really do not get the desire i see on this site to take a few shots at Italy.
It was done with the Ferran Adria article, and now this.
hhhmmm...i start to wonder, but i hope i am wrong.
3) he doesn't seem to be a fan of neapolitan pizza but then mentions a few that try to make neapolitan pizza as his top faves.
4) if richman by chance happened to like watermelon and meatloaf toppings, he would put such a pizza on his list. my point? these are opinions and i can find a different one from a different person for everyone he has.
5) he said we americans CARE more about pizza than italians.
if that were true, we wouldn't have so much of the junk that's out there.
I wrote in my wine book "Wine Made Easy" one of the most important lines of all time. I wrote: "enthusiasm doesn't necessarily qualify you"
6) let me repeat again i respect richman but disagree with his article.
we should all be happy we have food and can afford the luxury of picking favorites. 99% of the world is not so lucky
Gianluca Rottura
http://www.pizzaandcoffee.com/

@nextgospel

99% of the world? Umm, sure....

And you do know that Ferran Adria is SPANISH, right?

And you wrote "one of the most important lines of all time"? Quite modest of you.

Is the entire 109 list posted anywhere?

@nextgospel: Don't worry, Gianluca. I will watch the jabs at Italy in the future. I'll cop to using them recently as a rhetorical device to stoke debate. I'll refrain. As I've said before, pizza should be a unifying force, not a dividing one.

@Sky Full of Bacon: Great point re deep dish as its own thing.

Santarpio's??? Ugh!

@Kenji What do you think of Galleria Umberto?

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

hmm, just glancing at this list before i dig in i'm wondering how lucali ended up at number 2. sure, it's very good but there's no way a pizza with that crust should be so high on the list. on the other hand, it's good to see totonno's in the top ten since so many people have been talking about it falling off for at least the last ten years, something i never agreed with.

@whizkid

I'm with him on the deep dish. I can't stomach the stuff (yes, I've eaten it in Chicago). There's just no subtlety to it.

There's so much wrong with that list but at the same time, it's pretty cool to see an article about all these places in a popular mag like GQ. This piece is really just what Richman thinks is the best places, not what the general population thinks; that being said, where the hell is Motorino? I don't really care if he doesn't like pizza napoletana, it should be there.

Twin Trees In Syracuse,NY
The best garlic pizza..ever

To say pizza isn't as important in Italy as America is certainly a debatable topic. Yes, pizza is very important in places like New York, New Haven, Detroit, etc., but there is a huge amount of our country that is the equivalent of a pizza wasteland. It's true there may be more places in America where pizza is "important" when compared to Italy, but in Napoli at least pizza is certainly as important as it is in a pizza-centric location like New York, if not more so.

That being said, pizza can be a highly personable and subjective item for review.....with personal style preferences often dictating which pizza is "better" than another.

Still, all in all you have to love the pizza journey he went on. There are a few places on his list I have not heard about which I need to try, as well as many I have enjoyed. Regardless to whether or not I agree with his exact rankings, I know I am looking forward to trying some of the places he mentioned. Now, if only Mr. Gee would stop yapping on this site and open a damned pizza joint, we'd really taste a masterful creation! :)

Whatever your ultimate preferences are, great journey Alan...that's one trip I'd love to take a ride on. Squisito!

@GoodEaterKenji: Where have you had deep dish in Chicago? You wouldn't be making a sweeping generalization based on one or two pizzerias, would you?

@Pizzablogger Thanks. There are quite a few places that you can go to right now that I can only dream of equaling. However, when the time comes I promise you I'll do my best to make a good pie and be a gracious host.

Thanks again,

Paulie Gee

Amen re: American imperialism in Pizzaland. I am not ashamed to admit that during my time in Italy all I wanted was a pizza with everything on it (and not speck or proscuitto or quattro formaggi). You can imagine my disappointment when I spotted a Pizza Hut while in Germany only to find out that it too had been bastardized for local tastes.

We rock pizza better, harder and stronger than anyone else!

@nextgospel:
1) the jabs at Italy here are in jest
2) Alan Richman is NOT a nice man, in fact, he is a douche
3) yes, it is just Richman's opinion with the toppings as well as the list. That's all any critic's review is - one person's opinion. Whether or not you respect that person gives weight to their review or top picks. Richman does have a ton of awards.

Personally, I am not a fan of Richman and I can understand some people's issues with the list. But 25 places across the country is by no means definitive and I am glad that with the limited number of winners, he went with a lot of new school places.

And sorry Chicago, this is the Top 25 Pizzas, not Top 25 Casseroles. I have had some great Chicago deep dish but wouldn't call any of them "pizzas" :P

Big B, I agree completely with you about deep dish. I feel once you cover/remove/obstruct the bottom of the pizza from direct exposure to the heat of the cooking floor, you have left pizza land and are somewhere else.

I too have had good deep dish in Chi-Town, but I definitely wouldn't call it pizza any more than I would call foccacia bread topped with sauce, cheese and toppings one. It just "ain't" so, at least IMHO.

Well, I dont know how Tomato Pie on Melrose Ave in LA has been under the radar for so long,(it's been open 5 years) but I was there at the opening today, thanks to Alan Richman's review, and though I disagree with much of his "list", I'm glad he hipped me to this place. A more extensive review is coming but let me say it was excellent but numero 7(is that where he rated it?) is too high. Grimaldi's in Vegas is better than most of the other pizza Ive ever had.

@ adam kuban
no, no problem at all. plus it's you. you can do whatever you want. i know you're doing it with good intentions. i wasn't bothered by it :)
so i wasn't implying anything :)
so please by all means, do it whenever you want

@eazyb
99% meant alot of starving people. obviuosly it's not accurate. it's an expression
yes, i do know adria is spanish, but i was referring to a joking jab at italians in an article feauturing adria
the line that "enthusiasm doesn't necessarily qualify you" is in fact very important because if you think about it...it applies to everything.
even me. i may be enthusiastic about, say, golf, but that's not enough.
fyi, i'm don't care about golf, but you get my point :)
YO this article got ALOT of comments.
whatever it is...it's working !
take care

@Pizzablogger "I feel once you cover/remove/obstruct the bottom of the pizza from direct exposure to the heat of the cooking floor, you have left pizza land and are somewhere else."

So you wouldn't consider the Sicilian at Spumoni Gardens (and every other place that makes a Sicilian pie) pizza?

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

@Paulie Gee "So you wouldn't consider the Sicilian at Spumoni Gardens (and every other place that makes a Sicilian pie) pizza?"

You would be correct, even though I realize this is arguably (very much so) an idiotic opinion to have. That doesn't mean I don't call it yummy....I love Sicilian!

The last home made I did was Sicilian and it was tasty, but I personally don't consider it a pizza.

@ Paulie Gee.

That being said, some places making Sicilian cook it part of the way in the pan and then take it out of the pan and finish the bake on the cooking floor.
To me, that would be a pizza, but whadda I know.

BTW, I whipped up a batch of your Lemoncello recipe last night. One just like you mentioned and one with the addition of 4 pineapple mint leaves to experiment with a twist. We'll see how it is in a few weeks. Thanks!

@Pizzablogger You gotta let us know how the Limoncellojito turns out. I experimented and made Orangecello, but didn't like it nearly as much as my Limoncello. Everyone else did though, but I'm not making it again. That's one of my cooking tricks. I only make what I enjoy myself. And speaking of Limoncello, here's my breakfast of champions that I stopped for on my way to the Yankee game this past Saturday; My Limoncello and Motorino's Sopressata Picante pie:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pauliegee/3547293294/

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

Gialina in SF is definitely great pizza...not top 25, but still very good. Eat it often.
Big snub to Apizza Scholls in Portland, OR.

@ Paulie Gee: Will let you know how the Limoncellojito (I love it!) turns out. I have no idea.....it may need more mint leaves, less or just may stink all together.

I got a dish towel with a Limoncello recipe on it last time I was in Italy. I also made the recipe from that towel, to see how it compares to yours and the modified Limoncellojito. Will update in a month or so.

Your breakfast looks a heck of a lot tastier then mine on Saturday! Great pic. Motorino is not exactly "on the way" to Yankee Stadium, but I guess when great pizza is involved, all paths are logical.

Well, he nailed it by making Pizzeria Delfina #3. So, there's that.

Mmmmm... pizza!!!

Cheers,

~ Paula

Why does everyone who is not from Chicago assume that Chicago pizza means deep-dish pizza? If you were to add up all of the non-chain pizza places in the Chicagoland area, I willing to bet you would find more places that serve thin Midwestern style than deep-dish. Deep-dish gets all the attention because it's different, but most places that I have found in that area serve a fairly standard thin crust. If you want argue about cutting the pizza into squares as opposed to slices as being Chicago style, then I can agree with that.

I am glad to see that Bob and Timmy's made the list. I remember their pizza being very good.

My apologies for drifting off topic a bit.

I am curious as to how with a gas oven Great Lake is able to produce a char that appears like a wood oven pizza? I was under the impression that was only possible in high heat coal and wood ovens.
Hopefully it is not a ridiculous question as I'm still a novice on the technique of pizza making.
Thanks!

@robert 40: virtually any type of oven is able to produce a char, if it is capable of producing a minimal level of high heat (750º to 800ºF and higher). Doesn't really matter if it is gas, electric, infrared, wood or coal....as long as it is producing a high enough heat on the floor.

Wood or coal fired ovens can imbue a crust and pizza with varying levels of "smokey" flavors that other ovens cannot replicate, but a char is certainly possible in multiple oven types. Check out the newish Baker's Pride Super Deck ovens, which can get up to 800ºF:

http://www.bakerspride.com/specs/SDECK-5736-01-07.pdf

@robert 40: To clarify any confusion....it is getting the oven floor hot enough that is the key to char, regardless to how the heat in said oven is created (wood, gas, electric, etc).

As an experiment, in a store which uses a Middleby CTX infrared conveyor oven, on a dead day we cranked it to 850ºF, put a pizza stone in the oven for an hour, read it at 825F on a digital reader and then put a pizza on the stone and sent it on a 2 minute squeaky ride through the conveyor. It definitely had charring on it.

http://www.middleby.com/pdf/ctx/2203.pdf

Pizzablogger, Thanks so much for the info. I am in the very beginning stages of considering starting something up. But the cost of something like an Acunto oven is an deterrent. Apparently there are options without jeopardizing my kids college fund. LOL

@Robert40: Good luck if you decide to start a venture in the pizza business!

Yes, a good oven is very important. However, IMHO, I strongly feel any oven, from a standard gas Bakers Pride or Blodgett deck oven to the beautifully tiled oven at Una Pizza Napoletana are much like a computer......an oven is only gonna create a product as good as what was initially put into it. Garbage in, garbage out.

What's the use of having a charred piece of tasteless cardboard?

Make sure to spend some time, either by yourself, or pay whoever you plan to make the pizzas at your place, to learn about how to make a quality dough. More newer pizza places would be far better served learning about words like lactobacilli and kneading than coal or wood.

Have a competent product before you open your place, be a friendly host and plenty of people will come to taste your good pizza, regardless to what type of oven it's cooked in. Good luck and let us know if you ever open up!

Thanks again! I worked in the restaurant industry for years and even at a few nationally known restaurants. But needless to say pizza " High quality baking" is a whole new science. Knowing the basics without much more research is not something I would consider.
I often find it amazing how many people believe making pizza is a simple process. Truth is making Thomas Keller's oysters and pearls dish consistently is an easier task.

@Robert40 You can build one yourself for a lot less than you are going to pay for an Acunto or similar oven. There are free plans at www.fornobravo.com . I built a small one using their plans and the materials cost me around $500. In my "Paulie Gee Pizzeria Napoletana" set on flickr you can see some of the steps I took:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/pauliegee

Just be sure to build it as big as you can, which I'm sure you will if you are putting it in a restaurant. That being said, spending the extra money to get one that is built by an artisan may afford you lots of peace of mind in the long run. I think Pizzablogger's advive in his last paragraph is very good advice. Practice makes improvement. Perhaps you should consider building one at home first. Good luck and let us know WHEN you open up (sorry Pizzablogger). As I was told recently, luck favors the bold.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

Paulie Gee, I been following your flickr photos for some time now.
As a matter of fact I've been counting the days to your PB visit likely as much as you have. LOL
Can't wait to hear your thoughts about it!

Bob & Timmy's is amazing!

I cannot, cannot, cannot believe Jim Lahey's Co. made it on the list. Not only does Co. NOT serve anything even remotely resembling pizza -- I was actually offended by what I ate there.

How often does food make me angry? Never -- except at Co. This place needs to shape up, stop billing itself as a pizza place, or shut down like every other over-hyped flop in the city.

I've heard complaints about the service, but honestly, what it comes down to is the crust, which is thick and spongy. Pizza, at least in New York, and especially coming from a 900 degree oven like Lahey's, should have a cracklingly crisp, slightly charred thin crust.

I would have expected a world-famous baker to pay more attention to the most important part of the pizza, but no...instead I got wonderbread topped with too much arugula.

Further, putting truffles on "pizza" is completely antithetical to the idea of pizza as a cheap, delicious, utilitarian food. Beyond the fact that Lahey's product is neither cheap, delicious, or utilitarian -- it's hard to eat out of hand -- I can get a better slice of pizza at any Ray's pizza.
And putting expensive product on a bullshit slice is just gilding the lily.


@robert40 Like me, you are just gonna have to wait. Perhaps what you meant to say was "I can hardly wait". I can hardly wait too, but I have lots of good stuff on my calendar between now and then to distract me. One of them is the Naval Academy graduation of our neighbor on Friday. On the way back from Annapolis I was considering taking Pizzablogger's advice and checking out that Baltimore coal burner he blogged about recently. However, I promised my wife we'd take a pizza break and go to Philips for crabcakes and lobster bisque. Too bad. Those pies look very friggin' good. And I'm intrigued by their sourdough crust.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

Wow, eatup, doesn't sound like Co. at all... I have been there about 5 times and always has been great. Crust is thinner than UPN. Always has char.

Sounds like you have a chip on your shoulder, maybe sour grapes...

Interesting to see Bob & Timmy's on the list. It's a grilled pizza joint. There are actually a lot of in the Providence area who don't even know about it. It's not nearly as well known here as places like Casserta (overrated) and Al Forno. It's located in Federal Hill (Providence's little Italy), but off of a main street and barely visible to traffic. A worker there said to me that they enjoy having just a small following of frequent customers. Al Forno and Bob & Timmy's are both great. Al Forno is an upscale and quite expensive restaurant. Bob & Timmy's is a small sit-down pizzeria. However, I frequent the Pizza Gourmet more often because it's a slice/takeout joint - and there's nowhere else you can grab just a slice of grilled.

While I've devoted many hundreds of hours studying, baking, and consuming bread, it remains a humble food. Let's remember that most bread, at its simplest, involves only four ingredients, but, being a humble, simple food, it allows the baker's talent to shine through. With so few ingredients, a gorgeous loaf is produced through knowledge, experience, and serious talent. The bread is either decent or amazing.

Le Pain Quotidien's pain a l'ancienne is probably some of the best bread in the city. It's beautiful, with a glossy, cracked and golden crust that shatters when you take a bite. It's a beautiful thing because of its simplicity and because of its price: at under four dollars, it's one of the best meals you can find -- if you like eating plain bread, that is, which I do.

Virtually anyone can buy bread at this quality, in the city, for the same cost as, say, a supermarket loaf of Pepperidge Farms, or for less money than my fallback, Bread Alone. Even Wonderbread doesn't cost a whole lot less.

Bear with me, I'm getting to my point.

Bread is humble, bread is beautiful, bread is plentiful, and above all, it's cheap. Quality often bears no relation to price.

Patsy's uptown, my personal holy grail of pizza, puts out amazing pizza at half the price of Co., and while it's delicious, it's also a simple, utilitarian, no-bullshit, confident slice.

While I respect that Lahey and pizzaiolas across the city and the country are pushing pizza in somewhat non-traditional directions, I'd like to point to two things once again:

Real confidence in bread baking means creating complex flavors and textures with simple ingredients. Be confident: show off your experience, knowledge, and talent, and please, don't put truffles on a pizza to justify its ridiculous cost.

Don't try to glorify a utilitarian food that's all the more beautiful because it is and always will simple and humble.

@ Paulie Gee: There is another place in Baltimore you may wanna check out, I just haven't given it an "official" visit (whatever the heck that means) yet.

Now, as a Marylander, the thought that you would not get crab cakes here is blasphemy. Crab cakes and whole, steamed crabs IS Maryland. Philly is for cheese steaks, pretzels and Toccanelli's :)

Paulie, I'm hitting the Campari a little too hard tonight I guess....for some reason I thought you mentioned you were going to Philly for crabcakes? :)

If you plan on being in the Inner Harbor area of Baltimore, you might want to skip Phillips if you are interested in seeing more of an old school Baltimore crab house. Obrykci's, which is about 1/2 mile from Phillips may be a good choice as it is not to far away. It's somewhat unusual by foregoing the Old Bay seasoning in favor of cracked black pepper, but the crab cakes here are definitely better than Phillips. There are a few more places I would recommend, but they would require more driving and parking headaches than Phillips....and it sounds like you may be looking for a stop and pop. Wherever you go, enjoy!

http://www.obryckis.com/

God damn, there are some crazy mother------- out there.the comments about LA pizza are absolutely,certifiably nuts! There's no justifying the snub to Mozza..If some of the toppings are disturbing to anyone's pizza code, then stick to the marghuerita and sausage...the crust has never been anything less than drool inducing when I've been there. Also, pontificating that Antica sucks is equally absurd and deserving of a libel suit. Order the margherita with sausage, ask for it well done and you will be transported to a pizza paradise. Lastly, my first visit to Tomato Pie was fairly positive.The crust was too thick and doughy but still rather tasty. Get a grip, people and cultivate your minds and tastebuds before sharing such inanities with the public. Oh well, the internet is anonymous so what can be expected. Alan Richman, though, is also deeply in need of some pizza enlightenment!

how did Difara not make it onto this list?

@Pizzablogger Thanks for the suggestion. I will be sure to check it out. This time though I have a real yearning for lobster bisque and Obryckis doesn't have it on their menu. Concerning parking, it's never a problem at The Inner Harbor. The Sheraton parking lot never seems to be full unless there's an Orioles game and they have a bridge that connects right to Harborplace. Whenever we were on family roadtrips, we'd hop off 95 and hit the Phillips takeout stand in Harborplace for some lobster bisque. Sadly they stopped serving it about ten years ago. As far as Philly goes, we are stopping there tonight for that city's true culinary treasure. No, not the cheesesteak. A Roast Pork Italian at Tony Luke's. If you don't believe me, just ask The Slicemeister:

http://www.seriouseats.com/2009/03/tony-lukes-roast-pork-italian-broccoli-rabe-sandwich-philadelphia-philly-pa.html

BTW, I am always looking for a stop and pop.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

Alan forgot to even mention midwest tavern style pizza...Chicago's true signature pie. This list is garbage.

http://chibbqking.blogspot.com/search/label/tavern%20style%20pizza

Look, anyone here who made a top 25 list would most likely get shot up by all of us looking to put holes in the rankings.

I don't get too upset by the rankings....they are the opinion of one person and it is difficult, at best, to compare one style of pizza versus another style, among other things. What irks me is the beginning of the article.

Richman mentions there are 7 types of pizza which are American (3 of which I would argue are not even pizza):

1. Neopolitan imitators (UPN, 2 Amys, etc)
2. Deep Dish
3. Stuffed Deep Dish
4. Sicilian
5. Thin crusted, also known as "Roman, tavern, or bar pizza"
6. Grilled Pizza
7. American Pie....a relatively recent style he attributes to Chris Bianco

I am not the definitive expert on pizza, but last time I checked the first commercial pizzas ever made in the US, which like his American Pie category were influenced by Italy but were a style all their own, are not even mentioned as a style of pizza.

Mr. Richman, I appreciate your journey and bringing to my attention some places I was unaware of, but the bricks which have been licked by the coal fueled flames in the ovens at Lombardi's, Totonno's, Patsy's and John's of Bleeker, among others, certainly bore witness to America's first style of pizza......and your failure to even mention the style which set the course of American pizza making is inexcusable.....regardless as to whether or not they deserve a ranking in the top 25 list. I'm sorry sir, but you are a balloon head.

@Pizzablogger: There are way more than 7 pizza styles in the U.S. See: A List of U.S. Regional Pizza Styles

@Adam Kuban: Yes, exactly. My main point was the first style was not even mentioned.

Thanks for the link to the styles. I was unaware of the Old Forge and Ohio Valley Style.

I grew up in and around Washington DC and am quite familiar with the "jumbo style" large slices, which I first noticed in the Adams Morgan neighborhood. However, in Baltimore, places like Anthony's in Hampden have been selling "Jumbo Style", as in mondo huge slices nearly comical in size, before DC was offering big slices.

I'd really be interested to see the 109 pizza joints he went to. It does appear the NW got snubbed.

imo, you get to a certain level of quality and it becomes a question of palate. But prior to that, there are a lot of relatively objective factors that can be referenced along with traditional standards. There's an established language around pizza and some agreement within styles about what makes a good pizza. It's not just up to one man's opinion.

So it seems right that there should be some diversity unless he just wants to call it "Alan Richman's Favorite Pizzas". But, of course, that doesn't sell magazines like "the best in the USA" does.

We currently have 5 strong contenders in the Portland area: Apizza Scholls, Nostrana, Ken's Artisan, Al Forno Ferruzza, and Tastebud. If you extend down to Salem (45 minutes away), there's also a place that does an excellent New Haven style pie. The place is just called Apizza. All of these places use top quality ingredients and hot ovens. They all use long ferments for their doughs. Two of them have all wood ovens. Two of them make their own cheese (one makes a ricotta for calzones, the other mozzarella). I think three or more make their own salumi/charcuterie. Several of the owners were bread bakers before opening their pizza shops. These are classic pies with slightly varying styles, all falling in the Neapolitan, New York Neapolitan, and New Haven range, probably. But they're all just fricking good.

Admittedly, the offerings get thin after this with rather standard-issue stuff, though at least we have a decent number of places making actual pizza rather than just the chains.

But Portland should be on any pizza lover's radar and I have to wonder if Richman came here at all.

There are still a lot of places I'd like to hit. I was talking to a friend today who called to ask me questions about improving efficiency at Great Lake. Sounds like they really have a product they care about and I'm eager to get back to Chicago to try it. I still haven't hit Bianco. And I'm going to Mozza in July.

But I've been to a lot of the best around the country and Portland holds its own really, really well. I'd be surprised if there is any city in the US, except maybe NY, where the craft of pizza is being renewed as strongly -- ie, places that are only a couple years old as opposed to 100 years old. Is there any place that defines the next generation of honest pizzerias better than Portland? Prove it.

Oh, and forgot to mention a new one, too, Firehouse, which uses an all-wood oven and makes neapolitan pizza. I've only had pizza there once, but it was very promising. Very similar to A16.

No lists for me. I make my own pies just the way I like them. No argument here, mine are the best!

@dmcavanagh: That's the spirit! I bet your home made pies are the best :)

As serious as this topic is for many of us, I also think the best pizza in the world is the one you are enjoying, particularly when eaten in the company of good friends and family.

People never seem to give Indianapolis the attention that it deserves. There seems to be a unique identity of pizza shaping up in this humble Midwest city. Places like Bazbeaux's, Some Guys, and Jockamo's, all have a similar style and delicious taste. The pizza almost feels healthy, not that they are. They are typically thinner crust with lots of gourmet ingredients. After growing up in Boston and living for many years in Chicago, I feel Indy gets over looked.

Pegasus Pizza in Seattle is also pretty good...although for some reason it sucks as a leftover, so be sure you eat it all when it is still hot.

@plavoie: I am going to be in Indy on the weekend of June 20 for a friends wedding. If I could visit just one pizzeria in Indy, which one would you recommend?

tarry lodge is no longer, it is now a batali enterprise. the best in boston is regina

This review by Alan was acceptable but I had some problems with a few of his comments. If anyone is interested, I posted the full write up at:

http://blog-pizza.blogspot.com/2009/05/best-pizza-restaurants-gq.html

Blog Pizza

Come on ... how much talking about this guy ...
HE IS A LIVING CONTRADDICTION....
Less than a year ago he was mouth watering talking of neapolitan pizza he had in Japan ... Now he "destroyes" 300 years of tradition telling that Neapolitan pizza is disgusting ...
He does not like Neapolitan Pizza because of Buffalo Mozzarella and Anchovies ...
HALLO, McFLY? IS ANYONE THERE?
DID ANYONE TELL Mr. "ALAN McFLY" THAT NEAPOLITAN MARGHERITA IS MADE WITH FIOR DI LATTE and NOT WITH BUFFALO MOZZARELLA?
DID ANYONE TELL HIM THAT NONE OF THE THOUSANDS NEAPOLITAN PIZZERIA HAS ANCHOVIES ON THEIR MENU?
No passion behind Pizza in Italy ????
Is this guy KIDDING ME ????
Come on pizza in Napoli is a religion. There is no pizza without Napoli, there is no Napoli without pizza ... One cannot leave without the other ...
Mr. richman, give me a break ...
I honestly cannot take a Mr whatever to come-out with such a stupid article and throw 300 years of tradition and culture in the garbage ...
The funniest of all ????
After all this big article, he includes at least 9 Neapolitan (or better, Neapolitan wanna-be) pizzeria in his list of the 25 ....
IS HE KIDDING ME ???
What's it's point?
Can he be that stupid?
Come on, this article was a joke ...
One last thing.
Does anyone know where Mr. richman buys his "dope"?
That stuff is good, it works .... look how many BS he writes after he smokes it !!!! ah ah ah let's joke about it !!!!
LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL !!!!

I hit UPN last night for the first time in a while. I had forgotten how flavorful his crust is. Although his Bufala Margherita was a bit too soupy for me (especially having to cut it myself), the combination of the flavorful dough and tangy bufala was an awesome combination. Perhaps I'm a bufala fan after all. I also had the Fileti for the fist time and was very impressed. Garlic and raw tomato are typically not my favorite combination on a pie, but it worked for me yesterday. What made it for me most though were the course sea salt cyrstals that I bit into. I've never experienced that on a pie before. I don't think it was applied post oven, so they must have been very big granules to not have melted into the pie. Bottom line is there is no way UPN should be relegated to the last spot on Richman's list. This list is very subjective and has been taken way too seriously.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

"This list is very subjective and has been taken way too seriously."

@Paulie: Good point.

The crust Mangieri is making at UPN is, in my opinion, nothing short of spectacular. I do agree with bufala being a little too runny.....still, high quality bufala tastes fantastic....in my opinion. The flavor is the reason I am such a fan.

I have recently found another pizza place in Providence Rhode Island that will put Alan Richman's 2 Providence best pizzas to shame. It's called Zooma's on Federal Street. I put the whole review on my blog at the following link:

http://www.blog-pizza.blogspot.com/2009/06/zooma-bar-ristorante-best-pizza.html

Blog Pizza

I wanted to set the record straight about Richman's top 25. The following is a link to my full review of Osteria on my Philadelphia best pizza blog, one of the only two pizza joints from Philly to make it on this list. A little hint: I was very disappointed. Happy reading!

http://www.bestphiladelphiapizzablog.blogspot.com/2009/09/osteria-philadelphia-pizza-review.html

Blog Pizza

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