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Coal-Fired Ovens Hot New Trend in Pizza World

20090506-anthracite-coal.jpg

If you attended my Year in Pizza talk in early January, you know that 2008 saw a surge in the number of pizzerias using coal-fired ovens in the U.S.

Since November 2007, Slice has kept a map of coal-oven pizzerias in the U.S., and in that time we've added countless new coalers.

Not only has the rapidly increasing number of new coal pizzerias surprised us but where they're located has been interesting as well. Click through the jump for before-and-after maps.

Click me bigger »

When we first started keeping track, the New York City area had the greatest density of coal-oven pizzerias, with few pushpins (or, in this case, coal-helmet-wearing Slice Dudes) outside the Big Apple. In the before-after map above, it doesn't seem like there was that much growth in the field.

Click me bigger »

But when you zoom in, you find that in 2008 Florida rose to the top of the list and now outstrips the Big Apple in sheer number of coalers—most of the growth there attributable to the Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza chain.

'Pizza Marketplace' Notices Trend

I wasn't the only one to notice this trend. Pizza Marketplace wrote yesterday about the surge, talking to oven manufacturer Wood Stone, which makes a line of coal-fired models:

"Until about four years ago, we probably got one or two calls a year about coal-fired ovens, and then all of a sudden it was like the sky was falling," said Frank Milward, corporate chef at the Bellingham, Wash.-based oven manufacturer Wood Stone. "I would say that now I talk to a new person interested in coal almost every day."

In the article, Milward says he thinks the trend is the result of pizza-makers looking at the roots of pizza in the U.S., with many of the nation's early pizzerias operating coal-burners.

17 Comments:

MMMMmmmmmm, carbon.

Many of the "coal" oven places down here, as I have reviewed on worstpizza do not even use full coal, yet call themselves coal ovens since they use a couple of pieces. It should be noted whether these are totally coal ovens, or partially.

I'm guessing it is a real hassle to open a coal fired or wood fired joint in New York City whereas in Florida you have less problems. With local air pollution laws and local EPA regulators. Less of these permits and payoffs to get off the ground. FL doesn't even have emission inspections for automobiles

But Florida never used coal to heat so it is just a gimmick to bring it a few thousand miles to cook a pizza. It brings in the customers I spose. I can just imagine the guys at the coal company in KY or PA laughing their asses off as they send a shipment of anthracite down to Boynton Beach

I will further add that Florida has lots of good and very good pizzerias and restaurants with thin crust New York City style pizza. Even some char on top if you request. It is leagues ahead of California. Not as good as the best of NYC but respectable enough to keep the natives and NY transplants happy --- If you know where to go!

What's the carbon footprint of a coal-fired pizzeria anyway? As much as we'd all like to have one near us, is this step forward in flavor a really big leap backwards in our ecology?

@JimInHolland Nothing to worry about. They deliver in a Prius.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

JimInHolland--

Natural gas has a lower carbon footprint because it is a hydrocarbon. So hydrogen and carbon are burned to produce heat. That coal is shiny black because it is nearly 100% carbon. So only carbon is burned to produce heat. So with coal you get only CO2 and with natural gas you get get H2O2 and CO2. That's the science...... Not that I believe that AlGore footprint jive but......

Clean coal???

Greeting from Baltimore, MD from a newbie here.

I have it on good authority that a brand new coal fired pizza place has opened in Greenpoint, Brooklyn on Franklin Street, I believe between Freeman and Green streets.

I think last night was opening night. Don't know where else to post this, so thought I would put it here and hope those much closer than I can report back if the place is any good or not. Cheers! --PB

Oh yeah, I think the place in Greenpoint is called Anello's?

I was in there briefly last night, but didn't take a look at the oven for more than a second. I wasn't looking for one. There's was no mention of a coal oven here:

http://eater.com/tags/anella

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

What's next--the return of whale-oil lamps? Electricity and natural gas were considered great improvements over coal for ovens.

Boo, Lorenzo! You clearly are not a longtime Slice reader. COAL IS KING!

I don't know. I ate at Difara's for the first time this weekend. I thought it was some of the best pizza I've ever had.

I know its sacrilege to say this here but it sort of made me think that unless you're one of the very best pizzerias that wood or coal fired ovens do little more than provide hype and maybe some ambiance.

Ya I know...I'm donning my flame retardant suit right now.

Take that suit off, bobbob. You hit the nail right on the head.

There ARE a lot of pizzerias that have coal ovens but STILL SUCK.

I always like to say that it's like owning a Ferrari and driving 10 mph below the speed limit.

With all the coal ovens going in across the country, I, too, have wondered if these places really know how to use them or whether they're just putting it in as exotic hype to prey on people who have never had great coal-oven pizza and might not know any better.

Seems your map is missing several in Texas that opened recently: some Grimaldi'seses and a fairly new chain called "Russo's NY Coal-Fired Pizzeria"

http://www.nypizzeria.com/locations.html

Back to Anella's for a moment, I stopped in briefly again on Tuesday night and the oven is in fact gas, not coal or wood.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

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