A Hamburger Today
Pizzeria Boom Actually Harming New York Pizza as We Know It, Newsweek Says
Newsweek has an interesting take on the latest golden age of pizza in New York City. There's a cloud in the silver lining of the fancy-pants pizzeria boom—namely that Neapolitan and upscale pizzeria openings are outpacing the debut of really good typical New York–slice joints. (Oh, and I'm not just highlighting the following because I happen to be quoted in it; emphasis added.)
During the past six months, however, New York has been experiencing what The New York Times's Frank Bruni calls "a definite pizza moment"—a moment that threatens, I fear, to permanently alter what we think of when we think of New York pizza. Motivated by the new fad among foodies for upscale comfort cuisine, a slew of restaurateurs have opened pizzerias (Co., Tonda) serving Neapolitan-inspired pies enlivened with farm-fresh ingredients. Meanwhile, the premier purveyors of authentic N.Y.C. pizza are showing signs of strain. In January, Di Fara closed for weeks after aging pizzaiolo Dom DeMarco broke a kneecap. Totonno's burned down two months later. And the last of the storied slice slingers—Sal and Carmine's, Joe's—are few and far between. The result could be a coming shift in the city's balance of pizza power. "The New York slice is in danger," warns Sliceny.com editor Adam Kuban. "These highfalutin places are great, but they're a different thing. Losing the killer slice joints means we'll lose a way of life—walk in with $3 and eat your pizza on the street."