A Mini San Francisco Pizza Jaunt: Does Alan Richman Know His Bay Area Pizza?
"I would be happy eating a Delfina pizza every day of my life, but it probably would never make me jump for pizza joy."

Pizzeria Delfina is Alan Richman's No. 3 U.S. pizzeria.
Last week I took advantage of a quick-turnaround, 36-hour trip to San Francisco to try a couple of much-ballyhooed San Francisco pizzerias, Pizzeria Delfina and Gialina. San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic Michael Bauer took me to Gialina (many thanks, Michael) and I took myself to Pizzeria Delfina because, well, because that's what I do—try pizzerias near and far. And much to Mr. Kuban's chagrin, Mr. Bauer blogged about my little San Francisco pizza adventure before I could even get the sauce stains off my shirt. Actually, there was another reason I went to both places that night: My friend Alan Richman had ranked them both very highly in his recent GQ piece provocatively titled "The 25 Best Pizzas You'll Ever Eat." How highly? Pizzeria Delfina was ranked third and Gialina 14th.
Now I know that up to now I have been conspicuously absent in the heated debate that's ensued since Alan's piece came out a couple of weeks ago. No more. I loved reading Alan's pizza piece because Alan's stories are always a good read designed to provoke argument and debate. He's a wonderful, very funny writer who actually visits and tastes all the food he writes about (note to Details editors: Googling is not eating).
All that being said, I didn't agree with all of Alan's individual pizzeria and collective pizza city rankings. Detroit is certainly not a top five American pizza city. A provocative statement to be sure by Alan, but not a true one. But I digress. I went to Pizzeria Delfina to see if it could possibly be better than Pizzeria Bianco (ranked fourth) or Una Pizza Napoletana (which Alan preposterously ranked 25th).
In other words, I went to see if Richman was a serious pizza eater and not just a serious pizza provocateur.
Pizzeria Delfina
Pizzeria Delfina (Mission)
3611 18th Street, San Francisco CA 94110 (near Guererro; map); 415-437-6800; pizzeriadelfina.com
Related: Kuban's take on Pizzeria Delfina [1/2/2009]
Pizzeria Delfina was hopping when I got to the original Mission District location at 6:30 p.m. I ordered one of my litmus test pies, a Margherita, and upon a friend's recommendation, a glass of lemonade. I sat at the counter overlooking the open kitchen and oven, a gas-fired Marsal oven that can easily get cranked up to more than 700 degrees.
The lemonade came first, and it is a fine lemonade indeed, perfectly balanced between sweet and tart and smooth and astringent. It was a proper and perfectly realized lemonade.
Alas, my Margherita pizza was proper and quite good, but it was not perfectly realized. The dough needed salt, and the crust lacked a certain je ne sais quoi. Actually I do know. It lacked soul. I would be happy eating a Delfina pizza every day of my life, but it probably would never make me jump for pizza joy.
I was actually in and out of Delfina in 20 minutes, which, unfortunately for my diet, left me time to hit Bi-Rite Creamery, just across the street from Delfina. I ordered a large cup with scoops of salted caramel, roasted banana, malted vanilla, and some hot fudge. It was insanely, seriously delicious, rich and creamy, and vividly flavored. It took all the self-control I could muster to throw most of it out. But I did, which was a good thing because I still had to contend with dinner at Gialina with Michael, his friend Michael Murphy, and my niece Sara.
Gialina Pizzeria

Gialina Pizzeria
2842 Diamond Street, San Francisco CA 94131 (map); 415-239-8500; gialina.com
Gialina is in Glen Park, way out on San Francisco's BART system, and because they don't take reservations we ended up waiting almost an hour for a table. While we waited we could have had a taco at La Corneta, a taqueria Mr. Kuban wrote about on his last visit to San Francisco, but I think everyone else would have regarded doing that as excessive, even though I was the only one in the group who had already eaten elsewhere.
We were seated way in the back, right near the shockingly conventional, by-the-slice Bakers Pride gas pizza oven. We ordered some meatballs as an appetizer (toothsome and terrific) and a salad. They mistakenly brought us a pork belly appetizer, which we told them we would happily eat it rather than having it go to waste. The pork belly was good, crispy and fatty and porky, but even I the avowed pork belly lover, am now starting to suffer from pork belly fatigue.
We ordered two pizzas, the Atomica ($15), made with tomato, mushrooms, mozzarella, spicy chiles, and red onions, which Michael said was Gialina's signature pizza, and the potato with applewood smoked bacon, red onions, rosemary, and gorgonzola ($15).
The pizzas arrived at our table shortly after we ordered. They were a pale brown rather than a golden brown, and neither had all that many air bubbles. The crust was irregularly shaped. Some parts of the cornicione were raised a couple of inches, while others were barely a half inch high. But even without tasting my first slice I immediately sensed that this was pizza I was going to fully embrace.
The Atomica was actually not that special (Michael said it had been much better on previous occasions), but the potato pie was special—sharp and smokey and crunchy and tender at the same time. Gialina's pizza had heart and soul, which, along with passion and knowledge, are the most important ingredients in pizza.
With Delfina out of the way I have only two of Richman's top five still to try, Great Lake in Chicago and Bob & Timmy's in Providence, Rhode Island, his number one– and number five–rated pizzas, respectively. I tried to eat at Great Lake the last time I was in Chicago, but I got there at 4 p.m. and it doesn't open until 5. I must admit that I had never heard of Bob & Timmy's until Alan put it in his top five. Provocative, for sure. Correct, we'll find out.
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26 Comments:
You threw it out?
You threw it out??!!
rachelb at 4:35PM on 06/09/09
ed is evolved rachel
norman at 4:43PM on 06/09/09
As a San Franciscan, I'm continually amazed that anyone spends any amount of time at all bothering to write about the pizza in the city.
Of the pizza restaurants that have opened within the past two-to-three years (and those are the ones garnering attention), I can't believe that these are in any way noteworthy, or that one is unable to find pies of a similar quality and style in any major city in the country. I mean, seriously: 10" pies cooked in gas ovens and topped with arugula or potatoes or squash, hey, maybe all three! Most of the kids working the ovens have been doing so less than a year. A16 is an exception, but it's straight up Naples-style, and thus in its own category (not that it's good, anyway).
I've eaten at Pizzeria Delfina three times over two years, Gialina once (their squash pizza was vile; the margherita insipid and badly under-cooked), A16, Beretta and, against my better judgement, will probably try Flour + Water. None of them are even as good as the most mediocre pie you can get in NYC.
I don't know why the press keeps trying to shove the slipper of "good pizza" onto San Francisco's mis-shapen foot. It hasn't fit. It doesn't fit.
jpancake at 6:07PM on 06/09/09
As a San Franciscan and former East Coaster, I am continually amazed at how people from the East Coast (NYC in particular) just can't stop being self-righteous and closed-minded about pizza in California. I was in NYC a few weeks ago and can tell you that exceptional pies are truly the exception. A mediocre NYC pie is just around the corner, no matter where you are. And for the most part that's ok, a classic NYC slice doesn't have to be the best pizza on the planet, it just has to do its job. But once you get into the realm of high-end pies, the stuff in SF is just as good and consistent (or bad and inconsistent) as the most lauded NYC shops. Just sayin'.
Grubjunkie at 6:31PM on 06/09/09
Ah, pizza provocateurs are out in number today thanks to Mr Levine's recent update. To jpancake, I have to say that you are either much too harsh in your condemnations or you are the unluckiest diner in Baghdad by the Bay. Having lived in SF for most of the 80s, I know what it is to be deprived of a decent slice. I remember a roommate, many years ago, being enanamored of the pizza at a local Sf multi-branch pizzeria named Cybelle's. Though I usually shared when he would bring home a pie, it was with the knowledge that, high as we were, it would still barely suffice. And it always had a very peculiar taste and smell of dishwater. The pizza scene today is greatly improved compared to back in the Reagan era. My own experience at Delfina's on California St (described in detail on Slice) left me rather surprised at the quality. It was not worth waiting an hour for, nor should it have been ranked as highly as it was by Mr Richman,but it was quite tasty. I hope to visit Gialina this week...I had an excellent pizza experience at Gioia's in Berkeley,too. As for Mr Grubjunkie, I think you've gone beyond the pale of the truth when you claim that in" the realm of high end pies,the stuff in SF is just as good as the most lauded NY shops." That is as close to serious criticism as the happily departed Bush regime's rejection of global warming's reality. My remaining question,however, is for Mr Levine. Where exactly do these joints rate on a scale of the country's 25 best? We await your remarks anxiously.
L.A. Pizza Maven at 7:28PM on 06/09/09
You should have had the panna pie at Pizzeria Delfina, not the Margherita.
bgwng at 7:53PM on 06/09/09
Pix or it didn't happen.
Nebagakid at 8:12PM on 06/09/09
Just went to Great Lake on Saturday. It was clinical, sterile, Alice Waters fresh, pretentious, and delicious. Pretty chi-chi. Never seen anything like it. I'm still contemplating my experience.
Had the mortadella pie with, green garlic, fresh cream, and mona cheese. Everything looked like it was plucked from the farm same day. There were only three pies. The crust/crumb was as good as any I've tasted.
Long waits, pricey pies, totally worth it. My top 5.
moesizlacks at 12:07AM on 06/10/09
I have lived in SF 15 years and have been obsessed w/making the perfect pizza since I moved here and couldn't get a decent pie. I went to Naples 8 years ago and really got religion (at da michele's, of course). I have hacked multiple ovens to reach over 900F and set off more than my fair share of smoke alarms. I have made pizza for friends almost every weekend for the last 3 months and built multiple ovens. When it comes to pizza I think I know what I'm talking about. Alan Richman does not.
His article was lazy and uninformed, but his greatest offense was his pretension that he is an authority. I don't mind a writer expressing his opinions, but his total lack of humility, his outright arrogance was offensive (I got my fill of that w/Dubya)
All I want to know is, did he go to Apizza Scholls? If not, why not? If he did go, how long has he been nipping at daddy's crack pipe?
Ed- When in Chicago, I recommend coalfire and spacca napoli
next time in SF, checkout Picco in Larkspur and send me an email, I'll make you a pie
p.s. according to Marsal, their ovens max at 650 which is consistent w/the baking time of the pies at Delfina at 4-5 minutes. I wrote the company and the rep wrote back, "you don't need it any higher" (no comment)
I agree completely w/your review, their crust definitely lacks character, but all else is spot on.
@jpancake, what places do you like in NY? have you been to Picco in Larkspur?
krupman at 3:41AM on 06/10/09
one more thing-
next visit, try the bi-rite sundae w/bergamot oil
it's incredible (or just order a bottle and pour on chocolate ice cream)
krupman at 3:45AM on 06/10/09
@jpancake Althogh I'm sure I agree wholeheartly with it, but I love that last comment.
@rachelb The Rachelb of NYC and Chicago blogging fame? I'm not sure why, but I used to love following your somewhat humorous exploits. I'm also not sure why I stopped. Perhaps I'll start again if you're still out there.
@Ed As previously mentioned, you shudda triied the sand dabs at Pizzeria Delfina:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pauliegee/849123136/in/set-72157600889688256/
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 7:32AM on 06/10/09
@jpancake Here, lemme fix it: Although I'm NOT sure I agree wholeheartedly with it...
@Slicemeister Gotta get that editing feature.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 7:37AM on 06/10/09
@grubjunkie - as an east coaster still living on the East coast I agree with you 100%. There is an incredible abundance of truly mediocre pizza in NYC. In my experience 90% or more of the walk-up takeaway slice joints there suck. As for the higher end places that pull it off and do it right... there are more of them in NYC than in other US cities but the posturing as THE place where pizza is defined to the exclusion of all others - is indefensible.
phaelon56 at 9:21AM on 06/10/09
@krupman
Alan Richman did not set out to find the best neapolitan in the US, he was looking for the best pizza of any style. While one can debate whether or not his choices successfully reflected that, I still applaud him for making some effort to blow away this myth of 'neapolitan is best' that has captivated the 'artisan pizza' movement of the last few years with it's uber high heat and ultra-low cook times. It's as if any pie that cooks for more than 4 minutes isn't worth eating...(di fara's and totonno's would both fall into that category, I believe).
I'm all for great neapolitan style pizza but it's not the be-all end-all of pizza - not by a long shot.
foolishpoolish at 9:59AM on 06/10/09
@krupman
I have been to Picco, and found the pizza pretty meh. On the more pleasing side of meh, but still meh. The caesar salad, though, was incredibly good. Like, the best I've ever had. I'd be willing to roll the dice on the pizza again, just to get another salad.
Apart from the 'name' places in NYC (Totonno's, DiFara), I had a wonderful experience at a place in Queens which my friend took me to (I have no idea what the name is, its anonymity being part of its charm in my memory) which was his Favorite growing up. And it was great. Nothing surprising, but the guy has been there for decades doing the same thing. Not trying to impress anyone, just trying to make a living serving honest working-class food. And, admittedly, that's a personal hang-up. I'm more at home in a place that's unpretentious and unsurprising than I am sitting down at a 'high-end' pizza joint. I like to think that I can look past what I see as pretension and evaluate the food on its own terms, but, who knows.
I saw that you mentioned Apizza Scholl's in Portland and while I haven't been to Mozza in LA, I'm willing to bet that it's currently the best pie you can get on the west coast. I ate there a little over a year ago, and I'm hopefully going back up in August. I think of it almost daily. :')
jpancake at 11:52AM on 06/10/09
I agree completely with Mr. Levine's assessment, but Glen Park is not "way out on the BART system". It's near the center of SF, two stops away from Delfina.
motorhead at 1:26PM on 06/10/09
I have eaten here as well, just never reviewed it on my site, and I have to say, this is nothing I am dying to come back and try. I don't even crave it like I do some of the other greats.
pizzaexpert at 4:19PM on 06/10/09
Sure, Delfina is great, but not to be overlooked- A16 on Chestnut. I love the margarita with egg, its right up there with the best I've had in Italy. The wood-fired oven is always more than hot enough to feel from the counter seats, and everything else I've had there is also executed well.
ilikegranola at 11:56PM on 06/10/09
Gaspars for old school.
Raoul Duke at 4:49PM on 06/11/09
just the fact that pizza is being analyzed and dissected to this degree makes for a pretentious conversation. just fucking enjoy the pizza. christ!
tonecapo at 1:26AM on 06/12/09
@tonecapo. We like to chew the fat about pizza in all kinds of ways on Slice. I don't think it's pretentious at all to talk about pizza in the way it's being talked about on this thread. That's what serious eaters do on Slice. It represents the spirit that in general is a big part of the Serious Eats community.
Ed Levine at 10:19AM on 06/12/09
You need to get down to Miami and check out Jonathan Eismann's Pizzavolante
http://thechowfather.blogspot.com/
The Chowfather at 6:27PM on 06/12/09
I have another new Miami winner for you, Sosta on Lincoln Road.
http://thechowfather.blogspot.com/2009/06/pizza-pizza-sosta-delivers.html
The Chowfather at 8:37AM on 06/14/09
Bob and Timmy's is really great, definitely the best pizza I've had in Providence. It's really...interesting. I suggest the everything wood-grilled pizza without olives :) I'm actually a native New Yorker but have lived in Providence for the last few years due to college.
slin1 at 10:51PM on 06/14/09
I need to add a little bit to my post here. I think Craig Stoll is a terrific chef and I have had much soulful and wonderful food at Delfina. I should have chosen my words more carefully in describing his pizza. And I heard once again tonight which pizza I should have ordered there, as bwng noted earlier in this thread: the Panna pie. Next time.
Ed Levine at 2:09AM on 06/15/09
No doubt Delfina has a good thing going, but I consider it overrated and a product of the current SF gourmet pizza trend. Click for the top 10 rated places on slicefinder.com, SF based review site.
gregdodge at 12:41AM on 07/07/09