"Maybe the 500th best pizza in America, but even that's doubtful."
Bob & Timmy's
32 Spruce Street, Providence RI 02903; map); 401-453-2221; bobandtimmys.com Pizza Style: Grilled Oven Type: Grill The Skinny: Ranked as America's fifth best pizza by Alan Richman in GQ, but don't you believe it. This was the first MYOM (Melt Your Own Mozzarella) pizza I've encountered Price: Margherita, $14; Spinach and Mushroom; $13; Everything Pie, $14
When GQpublished Alan Richman's Top 25 Pizzas list, we, like serious pizza lovers everywhere, devoured every last word of it and posted about it. Like everyone else, I had my quarrels with his list, but at the same time I certainly took note of the heretofore unknown and previously unheralded pizzerias that Richman ranked highly. I vowed to try each one of the places I had never been to the first chance I had.
That's how and why I found myself at Bob & Timmy's in Providence, Rhode Island, which was ranked fifth on Richman's list. In his story Richman had used the following descriptors:
Every one (of the pizzas) was expertly prepared....
It seemed about the best flatbread I'd ever eaten....
...vegetable toppings were remarkably fresh....
Sounds seriously delicious, doesn't it?
My wife and I were driving to Woods Hole, Massachusetts, to make a 7:45 p.m. ferry, and I knew we had to pass through Providence, so I made sure to stop off at Bob & Timmy's to pick up a few pies to test the Richman Pizza Meter.
Based on what we tasted, that meter is not functioning all that well, or at the very least it's calibrated very differently than mine.
A spinach-and-mushroom that Alan had singled out for his highest praise. It had freshly sauteed mushrooms, spinach, garlic, olive oil with parmesan, romano and feta cheese
A Margherita pizza, with sliced tomatoes, prosciutto, basil, fresh mozzarella, olive oil, shredded parmesan cheese and sprinkled romano cheese
An Everything Pie, with sausage, meatball, green peppers, mushrooms, onions and olives with pomodoro sauce
What came out of the kitchen 15 minutes later were definitely grilled, but they were more like flatbreads than pizza.
Why? They were all flat, really flat. The crusts had no lift, no rise on them at all. The thick hunks of mozzarella cheese on the Margherita were unmelted. It was the first MYOM, Melt Your Own Mozzarella, pie I had ever tried.
They were still cold in the middle. These pizzas were perfectly tasty, something you would happily eat at a friend's backyard barbecue, but the fifth best pizza in America? Absolutely not. Maybe the 500th best pizza in America, but even that's doubtful. My guess is it's not even the fifth best pizza in Providence. Al Forno, which Richman ranked 18th, was where grilled pizza was introduced in this country by its owner, George Germon,. It's also in Providence, and its grilled pizza is way, way better than Bob & Timmy's. It's not even a fair or reasonable comparison. Al Forno uses much better ingredients and takes far more care with its pizzas than Bob & Timmy's. It's as simple as that.
This is not a matter of Bob & Timmy's pizza being bad. If I lived in Providence or maybe if I lived in B&T's neighborhood, it would be someplace I would order a pie from for dinner if I was too tired to cook. But is it worth a lengthy or even a brief detour? I don't think so.
As we have previously noted, my friend Alan loves to generate controversy and garner lots of attention with his stories. He's a funny, knowing, and wonderful, wonderful writer, one of the best food writers we have, but based on the pizzas I ate from Bob & Timmy's, it's safe to say that his pizza judgment diverges considerably from mine.
My guess is that deep down Alan knows that Bob & Timmy's is not all that special, though it's hard to look into the soul of another serious pizza lover. Alan loves getting a rise out of the rest of us pizza lovers, and he has succeeded in doing just that. I myself would rather have the rise in the crust at Bob & Timothy's.
But I have taken the bait, Alan. Damn you and your provocative opinions and stories.
Wow, first off, and my only real snobbish issue in pizzadom, I wish pizzerias would stop using the word margerita/margherita to describe a pizza which has no sauce. It just ain't so.
Ed, the tomatoes on the "margerita" don't even look all that appetizing. I can't say how those pizzas tasted, but your mention of the backyard grill seems appropriate....those look like some random people just piled on a bunch of stuff onto a flat bread while grilling out back. Hmnnnn...
Funny, the Rhode Island hamburger he included in his "20 burgers you must eat before you die" list a few years back (from the Spiced Pear in Newport) was also undeserving. I had that burger earlier this summer and would include it on my list of "20 burgers I would not wish upon my worst enemy."
That is definitely not pizza. If you served that in Buffalo, where we have a medium thick crust, people would look at you funny. I agree that a frozen Tombstone looks just as appetizing as this. Why not just eat crackers with "pizza" toppings instead?
There is a lot of garbage here in Providence, but a few diamonds in the rough. Bob & Timmy's is *good* and is definitely the place I go when I'm specifically in the mood for *grilled* pizza (which is its own animal) and don't want to wait for a table at Al Forno and/or empty my wallet. But you're right, Ed - it doesn't even come close to Al Forno and I have yet to find any grilled pizza which does. I'd say "flatbread" does describe grilled pizza in general, however (including Al Forno). B&T's usually does have a little spring to it though.
the crust looks decent, but they've got to lose the cardboard tomatoes, and the "everything" -- to much of not a good thing.... not very appetizing...
sorry.....
Well, Im glad a trusted voice checked up on Richman's bewildering and provocative list. I believe he ranked a heretofore undistinguished pizzeria here in LA,Tomato Pie, at #7, an equally unjustified and inexplicable ranking. Some people just like to push buttons, I guess. Or there is some kinda payola goin on. Or he's simply cracked under the weight of too rich a diet.
Hi Ed! Great post! As a former (recent) resident of Providence, I totally agree. Bobby & Timmy's is er, ok, but there is far better pizza to be found in Rhode Island. For starts, Caserta's across the street might not be grilled pizza (more like Sicilian) but cheesy, simple, slightly greasy and ultimately indulgent. They also have something called a "Wimpy Skimpy" which looks like a calzone, is double baked and stuffed with spinach, pepperoni, cheese and olives. They are huge, cheap and amazing.
Anyways (funny enough) this is my tweet from the day the list came out: I can't believe Bobby & Timmy's is that high on the list of best pizza's. It's good, but not like, Al Forno good (which is #18!) Gesh.
8:15 AM May 19th from web
I've gotta admit that I love Bob & Timmy's everything grilled pizza (minus the olives) and I'm a New York girl. It's definitely not your traditional pizza but it's lighter than you would think and the ingredients are great. It definitely trumps most of the pizza in Providence. Admittedly, though, I haven't tried Al Forno's version.
Ed, good work. I like this debunking, keep it up! Sort of like MythBusters of the food world. That "margherita" pie looks hideous. Pale mealy thickly sliced hydroponic beefsteak tomatoes complete with green unripe cores? Barely warm, with cheese barely melting, more from ambient temperature than oven heat? Unacceptable. Maybe you have to be Alan Richman to get a good pie there?
@simon: I'm with you. I hate tomato slices on a pizza. Cherry or grape tomatoes, fine. But beefsteak? Looks like something you'd get on a mediocre sandwich at a generic Midtown deli.
I'll add to the chorus and say that, despite living in Providence for many years, I never understood the Bob and Timmy's thing. Richman's article made me consider trying it once more, but Ed's experience lines up with mine.
And while grilled pizza is good, and fun to made at home, I think it's more interesting focus on the TRUE regional pizza specialty of RI, the Pizza Strip (aka bakery pizza). Mmmmm.... greasy pizza strips....
Ugh...not a single one of those pies looks edible. And I agree with Pizzablogger -- how is that a Margherita? Sliced beefsteak tomatoes on a pizza is an abomination. It always reminds me of CPK.
And L.A. Pizza Maven is totally right about Los Angeles's Tomato Pie; no way is that pizza good enough for a Best Pizza in America list. Richman's off his rocker.
@celeriac the thing I miss most about Providence is pizza strips!!! Venda Ravioli makes my favorite, they have baskets of them (still warm) stacked at the check out counter most days and I was never ever able to pass them up!
I agree with Ed as well as the comments so far ... if you're going to be in Rhode Island, you're much better off going to Al Forno or (my personal favorite) Caserta's. Pizza strips are also fantastic - I have many memories of childhood birthday parties where instead of ordering pizzas, the moms would bring out large white bakery boxes stuffed with fresh pizza strips. Delicious!
To all that have commented negatively, relax...Ed said himself that if he lived in the neighborhood, and was too tired to cook he would order one, so it can't be THAT bad. Even though it not of Mangieri quality and execution, or in this case Al Forno, doesn't mean it deserves all the hating. Bob and Timmy's is somebody's hard work. If you all can do better open your place.
I think Ed was simply behaving in a gentlemanly and restrained manner. If I had been served those pizzas I would have sent Alan Richman a nasty e-mail. The cheese aint even melted. Im sure I could do better making a pizza in my toaster oven. I can only imagine the pizza some of those other "surprise" pizzerias on Richman's list produce. Ugh!
agreed with jlew911... one of my personal pizza requirements is that you should be able to pick up a slice and turn it sideways with minimal loss of toppings, maybe a stray olive or sausage here or there but the majority should be anchored with cheese. i like a lot of cheese though and that probably doesnt work on a flatbread pizza... but it looks like a lot of what theyre doing isnt working either.
Just got back from Providence. We got one spinach and mushroom pizza and one half "Pizza II" and half four cheese. They were all really good. I was pretty skeptical after seeing some of the photos on their very own website, but was pleasantly surprised with the results. The cheese was all melted, they all looked really nice, and were well-made. No cold spots, nothing wrong at all. The pomodoro sauce had a little more oregano flavor than I care for, maybe, but hey. Maybe Ed just got it on a bad day? Or am I the only one here that thinks at all favorably about it?
You're right. It could have been a bad day, airstrikemike. But were the pizzas you had worthy of being called one of the best five pizzas to be had in America?
Man, I don't know, Ed. They were really good. I haven't had many other ones on the list (Sally's, Frank Pepe, Totonno's, Santarpio's), so maybe I'm not too sure about top 5 pizzas. But I would say it's up there with Sally's and Frank Pepe, and way better than the one time I had Santarpio's (which I do need to try again, but for now consider far worse than Picco or Regina). Probably below Totonno's, but not by too much. It's a tough call, and one that I am definitely willing to research further.
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This is not a matter of Bob & Timmy's pizza being bad. If I lived in Providence or maybe if I lived in B&T's neighborhood, it would be someplace I would order a pie from for dinner if I was too tired to cook. But is it worth a lengthy or even a brief detour? I don't think so. 
29 Comments:
This pizza looks like it was made at home--by a second grader!
HeartofGlass at 7:45PM on 07/16/09
Wow, first off, and my only real snobbish issue in pizzadom, I wish pizzerias would stop using the word margerita/margherita to describe a pizza which has no sauce. It just ain't so.
Ed, the tomatoes on the "margerita" don't even look all that appetizing. I can't say how those pizzas tasted, but your mention of the backyard grill seems appropriate....those look like some random people just piled on a bunch of stuff onto a flat bread while grilling out back. Hmnnnn...
Pizzablogger at 7:56PM on 07/16/09
Funny, the Rhode Island hamburger he included in his "20 burgers you must eat before you die" list a few years back (from the Spiced Pear in Newport) was also undeserving. I had that burger earlier this summer and would include it on my list of "20 burgers I would not wish upon my worst enemy."
millions at 7:59PM on 07/16/09
Gimme a frozen Tombstone you can keep your Timmays!
Timmay!
tinytim at 8:03PM on 07/16/09
That is definitely not pizza. If you served that in Buffalo, where we have a medium thick crust, people would look at you funny. I agree that a frozen Tombstone looks just as appetizing as this. Why not just eat crackers with "pizza" toppings instead?
xwafflesx at 8:07PM on 07/16/09
There is a lot of garbage here in Providence, but a few diamonds in the rough. Bob & Timmy's is *good* and is definitely the place I go when I'm specifically in the mood for *grilled* pizza (which is its own animal) and don't want to wait for a table at Al Forno and/or empty my wallet. But you're right, Ed - it doesn't even come close to Al Forno and I have yet to find any grilled pizza which does. I'd say "flatbread" does describe grilled pizza in general, however (including Al Forno). B&T's usually does have a little spring to it though.
addicted2pizza at 9:24PM on 07/16/09
the crust looks decent, but they've got to lose the cardboard tomatoes, and the "everything" -- to much of not a good thing.... not very appetizing...
sorry.....
pooch at 9:54PM on 07/16/09
Well, Im glad a trusted voice checked up on Richman's bewildering and provocative list. I believe he ranked a heretofore undistinguished pizzeria here in LA,Tomato Pie, at #7, an equally unjustified and inexplicable ranking. Some people just like to push buttons, I guess. Or there is some kinda payola goin on. Or he's simply cracked under the weight of too rich a diet.
L.A. Pizza Maven at 10:33PM on 07/16/09
Hi Ed! Great post! As a former (recent) resident of Providence, I totally agree. Bobby & Timmy's is er, ok, but there is far better pizza to be found in Rhode Island. For starts, Caserta's across the street might not be grilled pizza (more like Sicilian) but cheesy, simple, slightly greasy and ultimately indulgent. They also have something called a "Wimpy Skimpy" which looks like a calzone, is double baked and stuffed with spinach, pepperoni, cheese and olives. They are huge, cheap and amazing.
Anyways (funny enough) this is my tweet from the day the list came out: I can't believe Bobby & Timmy's is that high on the list of best pizza's. It's good, but not like, Al Forno good (which is #18!) Gesh.
8:15 AM May 19th from web
Mdotmet at 10:36PM on 07/16/09
I've gotta admit that I love Bob & Timmy's everything grilled pizza (minus the olives) and I'm a New York girl. It's definitely not your traditional pizza but it's lighter than you would think and the ingredients are great. It definitely trumps most of the pizza in Providence. Admittedly, though, I haven't tried Al Forno's version.
slin1 at 8:02AM on 07/17/09
Ed, good work. I like this debunking, keep it up! Sort of like MythBusters of the food world. That "margherita" pie looks hideous. Pale mealy thickly sliced hydroponic beefsteak tomatoes complete with green unripe cores? Barely warm, with cheese barely melting, more from ambient temperature than oven heat? Unacceptable. Maybe you have to be Alan Richman to get a good pie there?
simon at 11:42AM on 07/17/09
@simon: I'm with you. I hate tomato slices on a pizza. Cherry or grape tomatoes, fine. But beefsteak? Looks like something you'd get on a mediocre sandwich at a generic Midtown deli.
Adam Kuban at 11:48AM on 07/17/09
I'll add to the chorus and say that, despite living in Providence for many years, I never understood the Bob and Timmy's thing. Richman's article made me consider trying it once more, but Ed's experience lines up with mine.
And while grilled pizza is good, and fun to made at home, I think it's more interesting focus on the TRUE regional pizza specialty of RI, the Pizza Strip (aka bakery pizza). Mmmmm.... greasy pizza strips....
Celeriac at 11:49AM on 07/17/09
@Adam - hear hear. Raw tomato on bread, whether sliced, diced or otherwise non puréed or crushed and peeled, is called Bruschetta or Focaccia. Cherry or grapes tomatoes are acceptable only if the skins get caramelized and the boiling juices make them pop from roasting in the heat of the oven.
Nothing wrong with grilled pizza. I've had Al Forno, it's delicious. This however is a travesty.
simon at 12:08PM on 07/17/09
Ugh...not a single one of those pies looks edible. And I agree with Pizzablogger -- how is that a Margherita? Sliced beefsteak tomatoes on a pizza is an abomination. It always reminds me of CPK.
And L.A. Pizza Maven is totally right about Los Angeles's Tomato Pie; no way is that pizza good enough for a Best Pizza in America list. Richman's off his rocker.
WikiAdam at 2:33PM on 07/17/09
Maybe it's just the photography, but they are the most unappetizing pizzas I've ever seen, ever. Looks like something out of a Trader Joe's box.
fdburke at 3:02PM on 07/17/09
Adam Richman must pay for his sins against pizza eaters!
Or at least pay Ed's tab.
RobertoRx at 4:09PM on 07/17/09
@celeriac the thing I miss most about Providence is pizza strips!!! Venda Ravioli makes my favorite, they have baskets of them (still warm) stacked at the check out counter most days and I was never ever able to pass them up!
Mdotmet at 4:31PM on 07/17/09
Who wants pizza if the damn cheese isn't melted and the toppings won't stick??
I bet all of the meat fell off that everything pie the minute they picked up a slice!!
jlew911 at 10:01PM on 07/17/09
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who doesn't like tomato slices on a pie.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 12:24AM on 07/18/09
I agree with Ed as well as the comments so far ... if you're going to be in Rhode Island, you're much better off going to Al Forno or (my personal favorite) Caserta's. Pizza strips are also fantastic - I have many memories of childhood birthday parties where instead of ordering pizzas, the moms would bring out large white bakery boxes stuffed with fresh pizza strips. Delicious!
poke87 at 11:15AM on 07/18/09
To all that have commented negatively, relax...Ed said himself that if he lived in the neighborhood, and was too tired to cook he would order one, so it can't be THAT bad. Even though it not of Mangieri quality and execution, or in this case Al Forno, doesn't mean it deserves all the hating. Bob and Timmy's is somebody's hard work. If you all can do better open your place.
tonecapo at 12:33PM on 07/18/09
I think Ed was simply behaving in a gentlemanly and restrained manner. If I had been served those pizzas I would have sent Alan Richman a nasty e-mail. The cheese aint even melted. Im sure I could do better making a pizza in my toaster oven. I can only imagine the pizza some of those other "surprise" pizzerias on Richman's list produce. Ugh!
L.A. Pizza Maven at 12:55PM on 07/18/09
agreed with jlew911... one of my personal pizza requirements is that you should be able to pick up a slice and turn it sideways with minimal loss of toppings, maybe a stray olive or sausage here or there but the majority should be anchored with cheese. i like a lot of cheese though and that probably doesnt work on a flatbread pizza... but it looks like a lot of what theyre doing isnt working either.
redzerostar at 4:40PM on 07/19/09
Am I missing something? Providence? Should I even bother?
The Wandering Foodie at 11:39PM on 07/20/09
As usual, I'm with the Pizza Maven. Any credibility that list had died with Tomato Pie in Los Angeles, a so-so pizza in a so-so pizza town.
Lance Roberts at 5:07AM on 07/22/09
Just got back from Providence. We got one spinach and mushroom pizza and one half "Pizza II" and half four cheese. They were all really good. I was pretty skeptical after seeing some of the photos on their very own website, but was pleasantly surprised with the results. The cheese was all melted, they all looked really nice, and were well-made. No cold spots, nothing wrong at all. The pomodoro sauce had a little more oregano flavor than I care for, maybe, but hey. Maybe Ed just got it on a bad day? Or am I the only one here that thinks at all favorably about it?
airstrikemike at 3:55PM on 08/02/09
You're right. It could have been a bad day, airstrikemike. But were the pizzas you had worthy of being called one of the best five pizzas to be had in America?
Ed Levine at 7:59PM on 08/02/09
Man, I don't know, Ed. They were really good. I haven't had many other ones on the list (Sally's, Frank Pepe, Totonno's, Santarpio's), so maybe I'm not too sure about top 5 pizzas. But I would say it's up there with Sally's and Frank Pepe, and way better than the one time I had Santarpio's (which I do need to try again, but for now consider far worse than Picco or Regina). Probably below Totonno's, but not by too much. It's a tough call, and one that I am definitely willing to research further.
For reference, here are the pizzas we ate.
airstrikemike at 11:05AM on 08/03/09