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'New York' Magazine Pizza Extravaganza

20090713-nymag.jpgThis week's issue of New York magazine, the "Cheap Eats" issue, has a special package on pizza, focusing mostly on what it's calling the "Great New York Neoclassical Neapolitan Pizza Revolution." Stories include an analysis of pizza economics, a time line of New York pizza moments, and a day in the life of Una Pizza Napoletana's Anthony Mangieri, which this quote is from:

Mangieri’s take on his competition is similarly pointed, to say the least: Luzzo’s pizza is “garbage,” Kesté’s “tastes like shit.” “There’s no love,” he says of the latter. The idea that something he’s been doing for twenty years is suddenly trendy repulses him: “Every week, a new place opens. No one pays their dues. They see something that can make money and go, ‘Oh, let’s open a Neapolitan place.’ It’s disgusting!” Lately, he’s been mulling a move to the West Coast, where the lifestyle, at least, is more relaxed.

Here's an index of all the stories.

28 Comments:

I can't help but agree with Mangieri's comments about the trend aspect repulsing him,and I suspect it will get even bigger.I've been quietly pursuing the same ideal for over thirty years and share his disdain.However i'm sure some of the new kids on the block have also put some un-publicised time in before they opened in New York.The sad and dissapointing thing to me is that Mangieri has come down to this level of talking trash - he exhibited no lack of confidence on his menu.Let the pizza speak for themselves. I used to have respect for him.My only assumption is that the new competition is severely hurting his bottom line and total frustration at comments about him,hence the reputed sale to Motorino and west coast departure.Like his pizza or not,it will be a loss to NY.It's a good job he's not in Naples,competition is much harder in Spaccanapoli with even less to differentiate between the pizzerias in both price and ingredients. If the new entries into this market are as bad as portrayed,( I hope ! ) they will surely have a short life.As much as i've respected him in the past,with his business model and pricing structure,I truly believe he painted himself into a corner.Good luck.

I'm gonna need to take a vacation day to read all of those articles.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

@Paulie: There are only a couple that are really meaty. The rest are charticles—and a "Top 20" list of pizzerias that basically translates to "The Latest Hot Shit Pizzerias to Open in NYC."

@Adam
I prefer your translation to NY mag's :)
Gianluca
http://www.pizzaandcoffee.com/

@seriouspizza
i agree with the part about it being trendy now
it makes me sick
and i also agree with the part that there are some who have been unpublicized and either paying dues or just never got a chance to do the neapolitan thing.
i've always had many of my own ideas but given time, chances, money, other obligations, pain, health, betrayal and desolation, i have never gotten around to it but i still have that dream.
one day i'll do it. i'll have to.
then hopefully by then the bad will be weeded out and the true shall remain.
i do understand and feel mangieri's frustration that now people are jumping on the bandwagon.
it's like so much in life.
music, clothing, slang, whatever...every one is a johnny come lately.
it would be easier if at the very least those who start off something new don't meet such forceful resistance and ignorance by those very same people who turn around and copy years later.
AND worse...get loved by people who don't "get it".
cuz then those very same people can be influenced by someone or something else and they move on to that, totally forgetting or caring about the first thing.
it's like dealing with a crazy girlfriend or boyfriend.
anyway, i went on long enough.
Gianluca
pizzaandcoffee.com/

Mangieri resorted to trash talking the day he wrote his menu. For all his talk, his delivery of product is sorely lacking, and it's easily reflected in negative online user reviews around the internet. Maybe he actually puts effort into it for food critics, but he treats regularly customers lousy and he overcharges for a product that falls short of the quality described on his menu. It's no surprise that he detests a place like Luzzos. They are only around the corner, and most people choose to hit them up instead. You would think Mangieri is some sort of veteran in the pizza business. His estalishment has only been in NY a few years and he owes 99% of his business to Ed Levine.

The whole "those new places didn't pay their dues like I did" is just stupid. Its the restaurant business not a gang. Competition is good it provides more selection and better prices. Mangieri comes off like sore loser in that article.

I was just thinking about how little mention Naples 45 gets anywhere.They've alledgedly been around since'96,and serve more Neapolitan style pizzas than any place I know of .You can debate the quality,but considering the volume and value,they deserve recognition,La Pizza Fresca opened a year later in '1997- again you can debate the quality.Una Pizza was a johnny come lately with a body of tattoos,balls the size of a water buffalo,and confidence (some would say arrogance ) to match.His cult following has endured in no small part by Ed Levine,Arthur Swartz and a the explosion of the internet.To read his rant is somewhat comical,as if he was the originator,when in fact he was a bright,young passionate (and shrewd ) bread baker turned pizza maker who demanded attention and took a gamble. It paid off....... for a few years.
2009 brings an onslaught of others.Who are they to question Mangieri and cast doubt? A cock sure Belgian with a Frenchmans ego? A bunch of Italians who claim superior knowledge ?A masturbaker with a fiery wit?
It's called evolution.Remember when a place called Two Boots was flavor of the day.Now that's hillarious.

wow, dude comes off like a complete douchebag. and he wants to move to the west coast because the lifestyle is more relaxed? good luck with that, it's obviously a good match with your personality.

“Where in New York do you walk in and feel, Wow, this is for real, this is not being run corporate? I don’t know any other place other than this, honestly. Do you?”. way to insult almost every other independent restaurateur in the city. what an a-hole. good riddance.

that top 20 list has got to be the crappiest top anything list i've ever seen

West coast here, please keep him, we got all the fruits and nuts we can handle.

Mangina sounds like he's just mad that other people can make pizza as good as or better than him, and can do it without an attitude. Screw that guy.

I respect Anthony ALOT. he knows his stuff. However I always look at him as Neo-classical Art while the rest are Contemporary Art. All the same, all good yet different in their own way.

@Everyone
hey listen guys
let's not trash the guy
if he named specific people then we can trash talk about him
but he trash talked pizzas and pizzerias
so to be fair he didn't cross "that" line
although i do respectfully disagree with what he said about keste
i love keste as i also do love una pizza napoletana
more (much more) importantly i appreciate anthony and roberto
as people and that matters more than a food product
Gianluca
http://www.pizzaandcoffee.com/
PS i'm supposed to avoid WHEAT and DAIRY
so if anyone should have people feel bad for them it's ME ha ha

“Where in New York do you walk in and feel, Wow, this is for real, this is not being run corporate? I don’t know any other place other than this, honestly. Do you?”

Does anyone else get the feeling that Anthony hasn't stepped foot in anyone else's pizzeria in a very long time? He certainly hasn't ever been to Roberta's or Lucali.

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

If he would have simply boasted about how he feels his pizza is the best I would take no issue with his comments.

But he somehow felt it necessary to impugn the integrity of all his competitors. Say what you want about Keste in terms of it's product, but Caporuscio is commited to the Platonic idea of producing a pure Neapolitan pie and ultimately this is the reason why I believe he does not produce the best pizza in NYC. He is so committed to the VPN dogma that he will not take a step back and consider making adjustments to his food or his practices.

I believe he is stubborn and a true believer in what he is doing and that was the reason he was asked to leave his prior venture (A Mano) in NJ. When asked to change the way he made pizza he refused and parted company with ownership and struck out on his own. These traits are not the earmarks of a cynical money grubber, but they are of someone that has a profound commitment to what he is doing.

There are plenty of ways to pay your dues, everyone has a different path and it doesn't necessarily encompass trying to make pizza in your parents fireplace like a moron.

Anthony Mangieri the Martyr of Modern Artisanal pizza movement. The whole angry young man act is wearing thin.

@anthony a
i agree with your statement that roberto has passion and sticks to it
but i disagree with what you say about him adhering to VPN.
If anything, roberto is adhering to the traditional (and proven superior, if studied) way of doing things that the VPN is trying to implement!!!!
so it's actually the other way around.
I know roberto and his background. he has trained, learned from, and worked with starita who is treated and viewed as a scholar.
again full disclosure, i know him, so one could say i am being biased, but i am just being fair.
as for anthony mangieri, i also know him, he has always been nice and respectful...so i could only hope ny mag altered what he said.
when the ny times did an article on my father's life, they actually made up sentences he never said!!!! it left my father upset.
so i hope this is the case with the pizza comments.
in the end, guys, what does all this mean?
if God forbid, some disaster like 9/11 were to happen again
nobody would give a shit about dough and tomato sauce.
it's amazing the luxuries we (definitely including me) can afford ourselves.
so in the end, we are left with a few things left to care about.
and unfortunately only a few people who do the caring :(
Gianluca
http://www.pizzaandcoffee.com/
ps people may be wondering why i go on philosophical rants.
it's not necessarily pizza that i care about.
i just have a passion that runs through my veins
so i could easily spend the same amount of time talking about marxism, capitalism, art, and soccer

@nextgospel
"it's like so much in life.
music, clothing, slang, whatever...every one is a johnny come lately.
it would be easier if at the very least those who start off something new don't meet such forceful resistance and ignorance by those very same people who turn around and copy years later.
AND worse...get loved by people who don't "get it".
cuz then those very same people can be influenced by someone or something else and they move on to that, totally forgetting or caring about the first thing."
Hey it's one thing for Anthony Mangieri to trash talk about other pizzerias. It's sad to hear him do that but I can sort of understand where he's coming from. However it's a whole different thing to making sweeping generalisations about the customers who frequent other 'tastes-like-shit' establishments.
The more people who fall in love with 'neapolitan style' (regardless of authenticity) the better for everyone...surely? Does it matter where they go to eat it? Or do we need the same level of commitment as M. Mangieri in order to 'truly appreciate' neapolitan pizza? If that's the case - I'll happily share a non-neapolitan pie with the other peeps who 'don't get it'.

FP

@foolishpoolish
yeah i see what you're saying
no one obviously needs as much commitment as mangieri to appreciate
pizza...obviusoly cuz then it would be impossible to commit to many other things
but what i personally am saying, whether anyone including mangieri agrees with or not, is that now for instance it's all about neapolitan.
but the same enthusiasm can turn into abandonment.
it's like any trend.
then the middle ground gets lost
and we are left with extremes
there's a saying that" if you stand, stand. if you sit, sit. but for God's sake whatever you do don't wobble!!!"
and my fear is that poeple will wear the shit outta the "neapolitan thing" that's going on and then end up hating it...cuz in reality these people are really just disgusted with themselves, their lives, decisions, and behaviors.
it's EXACTLy like a troubled relationship with a partner.
i hope i got my point across :)
let me know
Gianluca

$90,000 annual profit at Motorino? Who do they think we are, the IRS?

Ciao,

Paulie Gee

@paulie: I dunno, $90k might not be ridiculous. It's probably low, but it's also easily manipulated. 10% profit would actually be incredible for a full service restaurant, but that brings me to the least likely part: for each pizza, this article claims only $1 of other revenue.

@nextgospel
I hear what you're saying Gianluca and yeah there is a trend of neapolitan at the moment which probably won't sustain (time will tell). Hopefully those 'true to the craft', of which I'm sure there are many, will stand the test of time.
With so many new fingers in the neapolitan pie atm - there is also the possibility of evolution - new styles, new ingredients. At least that's what I would hope the future brings. Too many pizzerias trying to make the same pizza can lead to stagnation* ... every pizzeria adding their own take on the original neapolitan leads to variety and growth - which can only be a good thing in the long run for pizza lovers!

FP

*not that it ever hurt anyone in Naples!

man.....pizza joints really don't make much money.......you gotta sell the liquor..........that's where the moolah is....!

what a putz- take your overpriced yuppy pizza and go straight to california, where they will surely appreciate an utter douche like this guy. This kind of attitude coming from a guy who told me to my face that Sally's and Pepe's in New Haven were both crap and Difara was overrated... and then proceeded to charge us $22 for a tiny, watery, runny, sad excuse for a pizza. oh, and i've eaten pizza in Napoli MANY times... sleeves and a bad attitude do not a great pizzialo make... a little humility would go a LONG way for this cat... good luck on the west coast! bye!

OMFG, the rents in New York City are INSANE.....and Motorino is not even in Manhattan.

Does anyone know if the $9,000/week in salary for 20 employees mentioned in that article includes any salary for Mathieu?

$90k a year is not a bad salary, but for the time, focus, passion and effort I would be compelled to lay on the line for the pizza, if I were to open my own pizzera (no one else would be cooking the pizzas), that's not that much at the end of the day....particulalry when considering education costs for a kid and the time away from my family the job would require.

My god, did I mention those rents are steep for a 1,400 square foot space?

@pizzablogger
i know it's crazy right
and rents will go UP
cuz they are going to RAISE PROPERTY TAXES AGAIN
and guess who pays that? the tenants and businesses
and guess where the businesses get their extra money to pay for the taxes...front he consumer!!!!!!!!
it's ridiculous!!!!!
you're right, it takes away from your family and for what??????
however just as a side not i wouldn't be surprised if those number
were UNDERreported
Gianluca

Looks like Tony Mangieri is trying to dethrone Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg as holders of the crown for most reviled pizza maker. That being said, I've never had an issue with the service at UPN, and they'll slice the pies for you there.

Mangieri is just an arrogant SOB and nothing more. He makes good pizza, nothing spectacular like he believes as there are many in the NY area that do just as good if not better than him. The only reason he has the business he does is because Ed L. put him on the map otherwise he would probably been out of business by now. The guy talks like he has paid his dues and done this and done that but how long as he actually been making pizza in a resturant? His pies are not close to being in the same league as Chris Bianco's. He sounds more like a child that needs to grow up and stop putting other people down just do your own business and stop worrying about if anybody else's pies taste like shit. What does that have to do with you anyway.

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