A Hamburger Today

Frank Bruni on the Great Artisanal Pizza Boom


New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni examines the Great Pizza Boom of 2009 in his story "The Cult of Artisanal Pizza." It's a must-read that packs a lot of info. Let's summarize.

The Cliffs Notes Version

On Veloce Pizzeria


Frank Bruni sort of forces my hand here on Veloce Pizzeria. I had been waiting to visit a second and third time before saying anything about it, but based on the lunch I had there last week, I disagree with his assessment: "The nicely charred crust—with a dough of potato, durum and fine zero-zero flour—was firm enough to support a generous measure of toppings."

I will say that the sauce on my square Margherita pizza—a thick, cooked-down, tangy and rich tomato concoction—was excellent. And the crisp bits of cheese at the edges were an added bonus. But my slices were sloppy, floppy, and greasy. There was no firmness whatsoever, and I had to eat the four-slice pie with a knife and fork rather than out of hand.

There's a nice series of multimedia audio slideshows that goes along with the main story, with Bruni narrating 30-second snippets over photos of various pizzas from Lucali, Roberta's, Motorino, Co. Company, Franny's, Veloce Pizzeria, Una Pizza Napoletana, and Kesté Pizza & Vino. There's a list of Bruni's top 5 pizzas in the city (UPN, Veloce, Motorino, Co., Franny's), nd there's also a Google map that the Times has compiled and that I am not linking to because it's a total rip off of the Slice Pizza Maps.

For the most part, though, I think Bruni's accurate with his assessments (with the exception of Veloce Pizzeria; see sidebar). He correctly points out that Lucali is good but that its crust is more crisp than crisp-chewy, that Co. Company is maddeningly inconsistent but transcendent at times, that Tonda has pretty run-of-the-mill pizza but an impressive aesthetic.

Printed from http://slice.seriouseats.com/archives/2009/07/frank-bruni-new-york-times-on-the-great-nyc-artisanal-pizza-boom-of-2009.html

© Serious Eats