That’s not just a comment on the owners of this trattoria (who hail from just outside Naples) or its menu (heavy on the eggplant, seafood, and handmade pasta). The restaurant runs on Neapolitan time. It’s a bit dysfunctional, in a way that’s endearing if you’re patient, frustrating if you’re not. Nearly all ingredients are flown over from the old country: better olive oil; higher prices. Service is competent, but aggressive—as gracious as he is, Antonio, signore of the floor, will have opinions on your order, and you will be informed of them. It’s a family-run business with a somewhat shadowy power structure. If we take it a bit farther, it’s in a largely barren area of North Cambridge; hardly lawless Napoli, but certainly a less photogenic stretch of the city.
But the Neapolitans know their pizza. And with a wood-burning brick oven firing pies in minutes and a seasoned Italian chef tossing dough in the back, Gran Gusto turns out what is now my favorite pizza in the Boston area.
Trans-Atlantic chef Giuseppe Castellano, born outside of Naples and trained in Italy, has put in time in the New York circuit, cooking at San Domenico and Luzzo before shipping up to Boston. His brother Antonio works the floor—and boy, does he work it, greeting walk-ins with a buona sera! and kissing lady guests' hands. On any other waiter, it would seem obsequious. On him, it seems perfectly natural.
We chatted about a number of dishes, all of which he proclaimed bellissima or stupendo—but when we got to the pizza, Antonio's face truly lit up. He brought his hands together and closed his eyes in a reverent gesture Italians usually reserve for fine wine and beautiful women. "Sono italianissimo. Our pizza like a' in Napoli. Real bufala mozzarella. It puff in the crust. It is not to get better in all of the Boston."
And the oven?
"Is not a’ fake oven like weet legna in front and deh back is gas. Forno a legna, solo legna."
Wood-fired, bufala mozzarella, it puff in the crust—I'd heard all I needed to.
We started with the margherita ($12)—and I'm so very, very glad we did. New York pizza cognoscenti, imagine a slightly rounder, slightly less olive-oily version of Motorino's basic pie. I would have liked to see a little more mozz-melting, and a touch more char. Other than that, I could not have imagined a better pizza.
The sauce was a perfect marriage of tomato and olive oil, bright and a touch sweet, wet but not sloppy. The cheese—Antonio couldn't stop talking about "the real bufala," but he didn't need to tell me; delicate and creamy, it could have been nothing else. The basil on top had clearly been picked that day.
And the crust was textbook Neapolitan. An initial crunch but an immediate chew. Thin in the middle, just barely enough to support the pool of sauce and cheese; tender and doughy around the edges, a springy cornicione, the kind you want to rip off and devour.
I wanted to love the Salsiccia e Friarelli ($16)—piled with broccoli rabe, sausage, and more bufala. But the rabe was too much, too cooked, and too bland; it cried out for more olive oil or even a sprinkle of salt. Every so often, a bite would yield a nugget of sweet sausage or milky mozzarella, but only to disappear in another mouthful of green. Leaving half the rabe on the plate, we were much happier.
But the crust, again, neared perfection. Good charring, good leopard-spotting.
And still puffy in the middle, after half the pizza had disappeared—leaving behind that perfect pizza dust, the traces of flour and char.
I'm not partial to smoked mozzarella when the fresh stuff's around, but my dining companion insisted we try the Sorrentina ($15), which, given the chef's time cooking around the Amalfi Coast, was probably a good test. And I was surprised by just how much I loved it. Cherry tomatoes, the sweetest I've had in this sad tomato season; gently fried eggplant; pools of still-creamy mozzarella, better melted and better dispersed, the smoky flavor pairing nicely with the char of the crust.
Despite our best efforts, a few pieces remained, opening up an opportunity for one last test: the day-old slice. The next day, the crust was as pliant and chewy as ever; the cheese softened perfectly with a moment under the heat. Even on Day Two, this was memorable pizza.
As we walked through the parking lot, the smell of burning wood cut through the crisp night air. It could have been a house nearby, lighting a fire against the strangely cool, autumnal night; or it could have been Gran Gusto's burning legna, firing another few pizzas for another table of happy eaters. I'd like to think it was the latter.
Good write up and capturing the excitement the owners have for pizza.
The cornicione on that pizza, from the overall solid browning color on top of the pizza (particularly in the initial picture in this post) and lack of leopard spotting, in combination with a barely browned bottom, shows that potentially the floor of the oven is not that hot, while the more intense heat bouncing off the dome is too much of a differential from the floor perhaps......or is this coloring and the somewhat lower spring of the cornicione in the side shot and more New York Style crumb/hole structure indicative on them using a portion of higher glutten flour in their dough bill...or none of the above? Any ideas?
The saucing looks like it was put on in a good amount and the color of it on the margherita looks pretty tasty too!
Now I'm hunrgy again. I hear tell 2Amys has refocused their commitment to quality. Looks like I am gonna have to try to get there before Motorino this weekend.
The corniciones definitely varied from pizza to pizza; I see what you mean about the top picture, but if you look to the far side, it had a slightly paler base crust with more varied color. And some of the bottoms had a bit more char and a deeper color. I would say it's more likely a result of uneven heat or positioning, rather than just a cooler bottom and hotter top. Either way, both crusts still had a great firm-chewy bite.
The nice website states that the partner / chef did a spell at Luzzo.Looking at the Margherita photographed it shows.They are using a pre fab Valoriana oven.
the margherita looks alot like luzzo's
btw on a side note.... ( was just thinking about something else)
i cannot believe how many times the word neapolitan pops up!
when my father came to this country, people who used olive oil were regarded as scum and greasy, NOW the children of those who insulted us are doing everything they can to fit as much >>>> in their mouth as possible. it's amazing the turnaround.
and those people also included some northern italians who would throw the word neapolitan or "terrone" around as an insult.
as for the neapolitan thing, i hope everyone has good intentions
and won't turn this into an MTV show or something
gianluca
pizzaandcoffee.com
I recently moved out of the Cambridge/Boston area, after having spent 10 years looking for a decent pizza. I never found one. If the photos above tell me anything though, it's that this place still won't break the no-win for Cambridge record.
The pale blond bottom with a lack of spotting and the uniformly browned cornicione, as Pizzablogger points out, leads me to believe that the oven is not hot enough, and they simply left the pie inside longer to compensate for it.
Tell me truly: was this pie anything compared to a decent Neapolitan pie in NY from say, Motorino or Company? Or is it just good by the dismally low Boston pizza standards?
@Kenji: Were Gran Gusto's pies as good as the best from Motorino or Co. or Keste? Nope. But were they on the same playing field? Definitely. The best of the pizzas we had here definitely beat Keste's on an off day. And though I'll concede that the top photo is pretty monochromatic, if you look at the edge of the broccoli rabe pizza (which, granted, wasn't their best) you can see some decent variation and char. The first pizza (again, the rabe) also emerged within five or six minutes of ordering, from order to table, which means that that oven was pretty damned hot, if not the hottest out there.
Pizza is a funny thing.....here we are talking about char, spring, hydration and laser beams and Cary mentioned, "Other than that, I could not have imagined a better pizza" .
Carey, your enthusiasm shows in your writing and having a pizza you enjoyed that much is what it is all about. Good eating to you.
I live a stone's throw from Gran Gusto and have dined there on a number of occasions. Initially, I loved their pizza. As I sampled more NYC Neapolitan-style pies (UPN, Motorino, Co.) however, I discovered that it was simply mediocre. Like others have commented, I too believe the mozzarella could be more melted, the sauce could be drizzled with more olive oil and, most importantly, the cornicione could have a lot more puff and char to it. Good pizza for the Boston area? Yes. Good compared to anything in the tri-state region? Probably not.
P.S.: If you do dine at Gran Gusto, be sure to order the grilled baby octopus and calamari appetizer. It's to die for.
Kenji, as an admirer of your work here and at GoodEater, I'd be pleased to break cornicione with you. I've been to Gran Gusto once before and left on the fence, so I'm down for a second round. I found your email address over at GoodEater, I'll hit you up shortly.
Based on this review I went last night. My expectations were high. As a New Yorker trapped in pizza-deprived Massachusetts, I'm always on the lookout for something good.
We ordered the Salsiccia e Friarelli (described above) and the Diavola (buffalo mozzarella, salami, red sauce). I enjoyed the Friarelli - we didn't get as much broccoli rabe as you did. It was very well balanced and the crust was perfect. But the Diavola was so much better. There was a surprisingly small amount of tomato sauce, but it was a wonderful, subtle and intense sauce that opened up like a fine wine after a couple of slices. There was a thick, sweet flavor of basil and plenty of excellent olive oil. The mozzarella was moist and nicely melted. The cornicione had an audible crunch at first bite, but the whole of the crust was chewy and moist.
Thank you for an excellent recommendation!
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16 Comments:
Good write up and capturing the excitement the owners have for pizza.
The cornicione on that pizza, from the overall solid browning color on top of the pizza (particularly in the initial picture in this post) and lack of leopard spotting, in combination with a barely browned bottom, shows that potentially the floor of the oven is not that hot, while the more intense heat bouncing off the dome is too much of a differential from the floor perhaps......or is this coloring and the somewhat lower spring of the cornicione in the side shot and more New York Style crumb/hole structure indicative on them using a portion of higher glutten flour in their dough bill...or none of the above? Any ideas?
The saucing looks like it was put on in a good amount and the color of it on the margherita looks pretty tasty too!
Now I'm hunrgy again. I hear tell 2Amys has refocused their commitment to quality. Looks like I am gonna have to try to get there before Motorino this weekend.
Pizzablogger at 10:49AM on 09/08/09
Hi Pizzablogger:
The corniciones definitely varied from pizza to pizza; I see what you mean about the top picture, but if you look to the far side, it had a slightly paler base crust with more varied color. And some of the bottoms had a bit more char and a deeper color. I would say it's more likely a result of uneven heat or positioning, rather than just a cooler bottom and hotter top. Either way, both crusts still had a great firm-chewy bite.
Carey Jones at 11:14AM on 09/08/09
I ate here two weeks ago and, simply put, it was the best pizza I've had in the Boston / Cambridge region.
mgraban at 11:31AM on 09/08/09
The nice website states that the partner / chef did a spell at Luzzo.Looking at the Margherita photographed it shows.They are using a pre fab Valoriana oven.
seriouspizza at 11:31AM on 09/08/09
the margherita looks alot like luzzo's
btw on a side note.... ( was just thinking about something else)
i cannot believe how many times the word neapolitan pops up!
when my father came to this country, people who used olive oil were regarded as scum and greasy, NOW the children of those who insulted us are doing everything they can to fit as much >>>> in their mouth as possible. it's amazing the turnaround.
and those people also included some northern italians who would throw the word neapolitan or "terrone" around as an insult.
as for the neapolitan thing, i hope everyone has good intentions
and won't turn this into an MTV show or something
gianluca
pizzaandcoffee.com
nextgospel at 11:34AM on 09/08/09
Looking at the recent Gran Gusto and Tony's Pizza Napoletana Margheritas,it certainly is starting to look like McNapoli is building a foundation here!
seriouspizza at 11:50AM on 09/08/09
I recently moved out of the Cambridge/Boston area, after having spent 10 years looking for a decent pizza. I never found one. If the photos above tell me anything though, it's that this place still won't break the no-win for Cambridge record.
The pale blond bottom with a lack of spotting and the uniformly browned cornicione, as Pizzablogger points out, leads me to believe that the oven is not hot enough, and they simply left the pie inside longer to compensate for it.
Tell me truly: was this pie anything compared to a decent Neapolitan pie in NY from say, Motorino or Company? Or is it just good by the dismally low Boston pizza standards?
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 2:17PM on 09/08/09
@Kenji I think you just gave Pblogger an excuse to head up there with his laser thermometer.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 2:59PM on 09/08/09
@Kenji: Were Gran Gusto's pies as good as the best from Motorino or Co. or Keste? Nope. But were they on the same playing field? Definitely. The best of the pizzas we had here definitely beat Keste's on an off day. And though I'll concede that the top photo is pretty monochromatic, if you look at the edge of the broccoli rabe pizza (which, granted, wasn't their best) you can see some decent variation and char. The first pizza (again, the rabe) also emerged within five or six minutes of ordering, from order to table, which means that that oven was pretty damned hot, if not the hottest out there.
Carey Jones at 3:11PM on 09/08/09
Pizza is a funny thing.....here we are talking about char, spring, hydration and laser beams and Cary mentioned, "Other than that, I could not have imagined a better pizza" .
Carey, your enthusiasm shows in your writing and having a pizza you enjoyed that much is what it is all about. Good eating to you.
Pizzablogger at 3:25PM on 09/08/09
Thanks for the review, I've been meaning to try that place out for a while. Sounds great.
airstrikemike at 4:17PM on 09/08/09
It seems that they just attach the word "Neapolitan" to any 12 inch pizza anymore.
othafa9 at 7:33PM on 09/08/09
I live a stone's throw from Gran Gusto and have dined there on a number of occasions. Initially, I loved their pizza. As I sampled more NYC Neapolitan-style pies (UPN, Motorino, Co.) however, I discovered that it was simply mediocre. Like others have commented, I too believe the mozzarella could be more melted, the sauce could be drizzled with more olive oil and, most importantly, the cornicione could have a lot more puff and char to it. Good pizza for the Boston area? Yes. Good compared to anything in the tri-state region? Probably not.
P.S.: If you do dine at Gran Gusto, be sure to order the grilled baby octopus and calamari appetizer. It's to die for.
Damian at 12:27AM on 09/09/09
@Carey
That Broccoli rabe does look better. I think Gran Gusto just made my dinner plans for when I head up to boston on monday night.
Any Boston area pizza-eaters care to join?
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 11:28AM on 09/09/09
Kenji, as an admirer of your work here and at GoodEater, I'd be pleased to break cornicione with you. I've been to Gran Gusto once before and left on the fence, so I'm down for a second round. I found your email address over at GoodEater, I'll hit you up shortly.
Celeriac at 10:00AM on 09/11/09
Based on this review I went last night. My expectations were high. As a New Yorker trapped in pizza-deprived Massachusetts, I'm always on the lookout for something good.
We ordered the Salsiccia e Friarelli (described above) and the Diavola (buffalo mozzarella, salami, red sauce). I enjoyed the Friarelli - we didn't get as much broccoli rabe as you did. It was very well balanced and the crust was perfect. But the Diavola was so much better. There was a surprisingly small amount of tomato sauce, but it was a wonderful, subtle and intense sauce that opened up like a fine wine after a couple of slices. There was a thick, sweet flavor of basil and plenty of excellent olive oil. The mozzarella was moist and nicely melted. The cornicione had an audible crunch at first bite, but the whole of the crust was chewy and moist.
Thank you for an excellent recommendation!
castirony at 5:59PM on 09/13/09