Motorino Manhattan opened last week Monday. I went on opening day to see how's tricks. Things seemed pretty under control there, and the pizza seemed up to snuff vis-à-vis the original Brooklyn location (that is to say excellent), so there didn't seem to be much to blog about. Plus--and this is probably the real reason--I didn't get any great photos. Shit light at 8:30 p.m., you know?
But when FoS Philip Given emailed me these pix, I had to share them with you. And, hell, why not share my observations, too?
First, if you went last week and found that there was no wine or beer, that's remedied now. The liquor license transfer from Una Pizza Napoletana to Motorino was just being finalized, but it came through over the weekend. So you can enjoy a sip with your slices.
When I went on opening night, a table was surprisingly easy to get. I walked right in and took one of the 17 or so two-top tables--with about five more still open. Maybe, like me, people already knew what to expect so didn't rush the place. Still, while I sat there, the joint did fill up.
The Renovation
Eater's photo album of the renovated interior gives a good idea of what the place looks like now, though you'll have to imagine it under nighttime lighting, as Manhattorino opens at 5 p.m. [Photograph: Eater]
The new décor makes the place feel cozier yet roomier (You can take a peep at a nice photo album on Eaters). The stripes on the wall are meant to direct your eye toward the windows, owner Mathieu Palombino told me. But more than that, Palombino removed whatever that little stand was at the entrance of the former Una Pizza Napoletana that held menus and postcards and such. This opens up some space to the left of the door, so if you're entering, you're not immediately crowded in by the stand to your left and the tables in front of you.
It's been noted that Palombino covered the oven in black tiles, replacing Anthony Mangieri's white tiles. Says a certain friend of Slice, "There's sure some psychology going on there."
I had a spicy sopressata pie. The things I noticed were that the lip of the pizza seemed much more puffy than at the Brooklyn location and that the pie overall seemed more charred. And while the lip, or cornicione, was puffy and done well, the interior of the pie was a little droopier than those that the Brooklyn location typically puts out.
Famed L.A. baker and Mozza pizza-maker Nancy Silverton recently assessed the Manhattorino pies and had a similar observation:
"It's a really, really well-executed dough. You can tell it's light by the bubbles. And the toppings are terrific. But I think their oven is a little hot. I'd cook it a little lower for a little longer; less quick char, more cooked through with better lasting qualities."
Palombino, who was there on opening night, told me that he and his pizza-makers were, of course, getting used to the new-to-them oven but that "this one is much more forgiving than the Brooklyn one." He said the Brooklyn oven had a very short window in which pies were cooked perfectly. "Leave them in just a bit too long [at Motorino Brooklyn], and you've ruined it. Here, it's easier."
Menu
As I tweeted from that meal, "Sweet relief: Most expensive pie on the menu is $17." This is a five-dollar decrease from Una Pizza's four-pie menu, which were all priced at $22 a pop. Plus, there's a wider range of pies: the marinara, the Margherita, the spicy sopressata, the brussels sprouts and speck pie, and more.
And salads and appetizers. And desserts. When Mangieri had the space, he infamously refused to serve anything but pizza and beverages.
The apps I tried were delicious--roasted mortadella, heirloom tomato salad, broccoli rabe, octopus conserva (but I'm always a bit puzzled by bread as an app at a pizzeria). Still, I'm a bit worried about Palombino's move into serving pre- and post-pizza items in this space. Strictly out of selfishness--if you give people apps and dessert options, they're going to be hogging the limited number of tables there that much longer.
Miscellanea
How nice to be able to pay by plastic. I hated having to run to the nearest Chase to get cash when it was Una Pizza
What is it about this space? The haters are already out: "You can get a better pizza in any slice shop in the City"
Motorino Manhattan
349 East 12th Street, New York NY 10003 (near First Avenue; map)
Does anyone know if that food and wine writer is correct about Mozza using a 500 degree oven? I would be very surprised if they are. I also wouldn't call 675 too hot for pizza by any stretch.
Thanks, Sloppy. Fixed the math error. I was thinking $21 as I was writing $22. I think when it closed it was at $21.75 or some such—closer to $22 than $21.
@sloppy - I was at Mozza on opening day, sat at the pizza bar, and Nancy was the pizzaola. She shone a laser into the oven and showed me the reading of 700 on the deck. They try and keep their oven at that temp.
I ate there for the first time last night. I thoroughly enjoyed the pizza (I had the sopressata piccante) but I didn't love the experience. It didn't seem possible to sit at my table without hitting the seat behind me. My companion and I were constantly being bumped by the people behind us and we each became really conscious about it as our meal progressed. I feel like the room would be much more comfortable if they were able to remove one table.
@famdoc... yeah, I was a big fan of the BYOB in the early days of the Brooklyn Motorino. I wonder if you get more or less customers with BYOB ...or more or less $$
The usual mark-up for wine in restaurants is 300%.
You do the math. Definitely worth selling wine. In fact, some restaurants make more off wine and liquor than they do off food.
Went to Motorino last night. The pizza was a tad charred on parts of the lip, but overall it was excellent, and only $14. Una Pizza will be missed, of course, but this is a very fine substitute.
I stopped by the 12th Street Motorino last night and had an excellent Bufala Margherita. It was alive with flavor. In addition to the tangy mootz, the sauce had a delicicious salty flavor. And it was served on that same Motorino crust that I've come to know and love in Billyburg. No photos though. After conquering the NYC Napoletana scene, Mathieu seems to be setting his sight's on toppling Lucali as the city's darkest pizzeria.
I had a very lovely experience there last week. The pie and the broccoli rabe, heck, everything was really good. Yes, it's a little dark and a little cramped... I just hope Motorino will maintain these high food standards so I can make this my go to pizza joint.
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13 Comments:
Heard they have a wine and beer license already. Damn. Hoping to bring my own a few times to save some bucks.
famdoc at 2:45PM on 09/22/09
Does anyone know if that food and wine writer is correct about Mozza using a 500 degree oven? I would be very surprised if they are. I also wouldn't call 675 too hot for pizza by any stretch.
To pick nits, 22-17=5, not 4.
sloppy at 4:55PM on 09/22/09
Thanks, Sloppy. Fixed the math error. I was thinking $21 as I was writing $22. I think when it closed it was at $21.75 or some such—closer to $22 than $21.
Adam Kuban at 5:00PM on 09/22/09
$17 is actually a five dollar decrease from Una Pizza, but that just makes it look even better!
tugttw at 5:29PM on 09/22/09
That is one mighty fine looking pizza!
schodack at 9:49AM on 09/23/09
@sloppy - I was at Mozza on opening day, sat at the pizza bar, and Nancy was the pizzaola. She shone a laser into the oven and showed me the reading of 700 on the deck. They try and keep their oven at that temp.
pizzafreak at 10:14AM on 09/23/09
I ate there for the first time last night. I thoroughly enjoyed the pizza (I had the sopressata piccante) but I didn't love the experience. It didn't seem possible to sit at my table without hitting the seat behind me. My companion and I were constantly being bumped by the people behind us and we each became really conscious about it as our meal progressed. I feel like the room would be much more comfortable if they were able to remove one table.
ryguy000 at 10:14AM on 09/23/09
@pizzafreak -- thanks, that makes a lot more sense.
sloppy at 11:29AM on 09/23/09
@famdoc... yeah, I was a big fan of the BYOB in the early days of the Brooklyn Motorino. I wonder if you get more or less customers with BYOB ...or more or less $$
chinolam at 2:38PM on 09/23/09
@chinolam:
The usual mark-up for wine in restaurants is 300%.
You do the math. Definitely worth selling wine. In fact, some restaurants make more off wine and liquor than they do off food.
famdoc at 4:01PM on 09/23/09
Went to Motorino last night. The pizza was a tad charred on parts of the lip, but overall it was excellent, and only $14. Una Pizza will be missed, of course, but this is a very fine substitute.
JoshNY at 9:11AM on 09/24/09
I stopped by the 12th Street Motorino last night and had an excellent Bufala Margherita. It was alive with flavor. In addition to the tangy mootz, the sauce had a delicicious salty flavor. And it was served on that same Motorino crust that I've come to know and love in Billyburg. No photos though. After conquering the NYC Napoletana scene, Mathieu seems to be setting his sight's on toppling Lucali as the city's darkest pizzeria.
Ciao,
Paulie Gee
pauliegee at 5:37AM on 09/29/09
I had a very lovely experience there last week. The pie and the broccoli rabe, heck, everything was really good. Yes, it's a little dark and a little cramped... I just hope Motorino will maintain these high food standards so I can make this my go to pizza joint.
honeybea at 2:06PM on 10/11/09